Question 97: "Hi Jeff, I hope you can help me. I bought a NWHT P-47 kit a couple years ago, and am just now getting around to building it. There is nothing on proper wing incidence, nor stab incidence for that matter. The Model is 90" and will run with a G-62. It is supposed to be real light because its all foam. I can't get ahold of the owner of NWHT, so Im at a loss as to what a good setting would be. Any advice? Thanks, Lee"

Jeff: "Hi Lee..the incidence should already be set in the stab cutout and the wing saddle. If it seems of, or otherwise, I would say o set the wing and stab at 0 degrees, or maybe +1 on the stab….doesn’t really matter. You might try contacting Jack Devine, thru RCWarbirds here. He took over NWHT and the company is now called Jack Devine Models. Good Luck…Jeff"

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Question 98: "Jeff, I plan to build a Ziroli single engine warbird soon but, can't decide which one. The Corsair is my favorite although, if another of his planes is alot more forgiving I would also consider it. I'm currently flying a 25lb. 82" Bearcat without problems so I do have experience with larger warbirds. Given you experience with Zirolis' planes how 'bout a comparison of each birds' flight characteristics? Thanks, Tony "

Jeff: "I think that if you are comfortable with the 82 inch Bearcat, you would do fine with the Ziroli Corsair. It is a nice flying ship, with no bad habits over any other warbird. However, I think the most forgiving and best flying of the Ziroli designs is the P-47. Like they say, there is no such things as a bad flying P-47. It has wide gear stance and a nice wing. I am partial to the Corsair, however. Outside of the P-47, they are pretty equal, with the exception of the T-6, which can be interesting. Good Luck….Jeff"

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Question 99: "Hi and how are you? my name is Tony and I recently purchased a giant scale planes p51(96"). I grew up watching the mustang on TV shows and am in awe of its power and appearance, especially with a 12 foot 4-bladed prop. I know I am using futaba gear and robart retracts and I am either going to power it with a mvvs 58cc or their new liquid-cooled 58cc, if it reaches the marketplace. The quarter-scale Merlin look and I bet would sound absolutely fabulous in the 'stang...a bit too much for the budget though! I just cannot wait to finish and fly it this summer, as I am from the Boston area. However, I would like to run a 4-bladed prop, for scale appearance mostly. From a thrust perspective, what are the pros & cons to 4-bladed prop? flying will include casual Sunday flying as well as the mild aerobatics the plane is comfortable with. Do you have info. On manufacturers and would you recommend any particular one?
I thank you much, and when the plane is complete, I will submit the photo to the already great catalog of mustangs on your site.
Thanks again, Tony"

Jeff: "Hi Tony….I am not that familiar with the engine you refer to. However, you will more than likely be in to a pretty small 4 bladed prop in order for the engine to turn efficiently and produce the thrust required for flight. Probably around a 16x6 or 16x8-10 4 bladed prop. As well, I don’t think you would be happy with the appearance. IT will look too small on your plane. It will work, but you lose a lot of efficiency as you add prop blades (3, 4, etc.). And with the available engine power, the props get smaller in diameter as you add blades. So, the result is a smallish looking prop that looks rather funny on the ground. You may ask Karl Allen here at RCWarbirds, the engine advisor, he may have more insight. I am not sure who would even make 4 bladed props. Best of luck…Jeff"

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Question 100: "Jeff, I have a question concerning the rudder installation on your Jack Devine Models GB R2. According to the video tape, you are supposed to round the leading edge of the rudder (to make a pivot point). However, even with a second 3/16 cap, there is not enough material to round. The bottom of the rudder is just too wide to round. I contacted Mr. Devine and he gave me an option but I am still a little loss on how he did it. Could you explain how you attached your rudder and gave it enough room to pivot without binding? Thanks Ron"

Jeff: "Hi Ron…..yes, it is a tricky area with the bottom rudder thickness. I actually capped it with a piece of ¼ inch, although, if you have already capped with 3/16, it will work. I drew a centerline down the rudder and actually just sanded a bevel on the leading edge. With the ¼ inch, I tapered it from the centerline, back to the 3/16 “sub-cap”, on each side. This gave me plenty of travel on the rudder. It would be a paint to try and round the rudder and keep her all clean and fitting good. I also buried a control horn in each side of the ¼ inch leading edge, outer side of the rudder, and was able to make a couple of small holes in the rear fuse to hide a pull-pull cable for the rudder. This gives me complete concealed linkages on the fuse (elevator and tailwheel are internal as well). The rudder is VERY effective, so you do not need a lot of throw. She is a great flyer. This is my second. Second plane has about 40 flights on it. The gears are busted out right now, but I will repair in no time. Good luck."

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Question 101: "I picked up an ME 109G kit with a 62" fiberglass fuselage and an obechee covered 83" wing. It was made by the Rodel Modellbau-technik of D-8939 Mattises. I need a 5.75" spinner and retracts. What size engine would you recommend? What's the best way to finish obechee wood? Does any one make or have the spinner that you know of? How bout an air retract gear?"

Jeff: "It sounds like you have a plane very similar in size to a Dave Platt model. I would check with him at: www.daveplattmodels.com His Me109 is 80 inch span. He can supply a spinner and gear that I am sure would work for your plane. As for engine, I had an 80 inch Dave Platt model that flew nicely on an OS 1.08. I am sure that yours would fly good on that. If you are looking for a gasser, try a G-23 or an RCShowcase 1.40. Both would work well. Good Luck…Jeff"

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Question 102: "Jeff, I saw that you built a 120 inch P-40 how did it fly, do u still have it, what did u do for a canopy and cowl Brian Greenville Pa."

Jeff: "Hi Brian…yes, I did build one. It will be 4 years old this summer, 2004. Flies very nice, landings can be tricky if you have too much flap and not enough speed. Other than that, it is a great plane, with about 80-90 flights on it now. As for the cowl, it was built from wood, using the formers from the Ziroli plans. I have not looked over his updated plans, but his older plans contained pieces to make a wooden cowl. The canopy was framed of 1/8 ply bulkhead frames, with plastic window inserts and finished up with 1/64 ply for the window frames. Jeff"

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Question 103: "Several years ago, I purchased a Royal Product Co... B-17 Kit. I have misplaced or lost the construction plans for this kit. Royal was at one time located in Denver CO. I have not been able to locate that Company or any news of what happened to them. I need these plans in order to construct this model. Can you help me? Joe "

Jeff: "Hi Joe....Royal went out many years ago. Some of the old Royal kits are now being marketed under the name "Martuka Models". You may want to do a search in google to find a location to look in to. I have seen Martuka advertise in RCModeler, at times. Another good bet would be to post a wanted ad on many of the RC sites. I know there are several kits and planes out there. I saw a RTF Royal B-17 on RCUnivese about 3-4 weeks ago. I had a Royal B-17 YEARS ago. It was a fun model. Good luck in your search. Jeff"

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Question 104: "Hi Jeff: How do you like your Mig 3 from Roamin Reseach plans? Any advice or problems building it and where did you get the canopy and spinner? Thanks Shawn"

Jeff: "Hi Shawn…..I sold my MiG-3 a few years back. I didn’t build that one, but do plan on building one at 10 feet someday. The construction is the same as Ziroli, so it appears it would go together quite easy. As for flight, it was a terrific flying airplane. It would slow to a crawl with full flaps, with no tendency to drop a wingtip. I had a 4.2 in mine. You can get the cowl, canopy, and exhaust stacks from Fiberglass Specialties. The spinner was a tru-turn mustang style. You could also go with a Zinger…..a little cheaper. Jeff"

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Question 105: "Jeff, what would be a good tail retract for a nosen 1/4 scale p-51. chuck."

Jeff: "The Robart will work. That is what I have in my Nosen B model. You may have to let it sit lower than usual, but it will work, and still fully retract in to the fuse. You could also check out the tail wheel from CJM, that fits the Don Smith. Jeff"

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Question 106: "Hi Jeff I just got an email from Joe Huntley telling me that you might be able to help me with my situation. I bought the old Royal kit (Maratuka) CorsairF4U-1A 98" wing span 80" fuse. The plans are not helping me with the retracts,flaps, wheels, fuel tank. I have built some nice planes but usually the plan has options for these extras. I bought the Robart whole set-up air system. I am not a warbird buff but I like the plane. Is there some where that I can get a better plan or I am lost. Tony. PS I saw your plane it's really sharp!"

Jeff: "Hi Tony…..I know that Royal plans are pretty scale, and lack much detail. That said, they make nice flying planes. Another thing I know they lack is information on building in the washout. You have to figure this out for yourself. Some Royal kits had flat bottom wings, where no washout is required. I am not sure which the Corsair is. I have never looked at Royal Corsair plans. I can tell you that you will want to use Robart gear, 150Z. These will mount as far forward as you can get them, between the 2 ribs at the lowest part of the gull section. Just glue a hardwood to each rib face, being careful to get them lined up and square so that the gear do not bind. This will cause retract problems…..especially on the rotating gear. As for flaps, that will be a tricky one. Generically, I can tell you how to do it. But it would be long winded and confusing. But, basically, you just need to stop sheeting at the rear sub spar. Then leave a ¾ inch gap and then sheet the remaining protion of the trailing edge of the ribs. This will leave an open area that you can get in to with a Zona saw to cut the flaps loose. Be sure to add a second rear rib section for the trailing edge where you will split the flap sections, so that you have a face on each of the 6 flap segments. You will have to scratch these up. After the flaps are cut loose from the wing, and from each other, cap the trailing edge with 3/8 balsa. Then you will have to sand in a ¼ radius. This creates a gap seal on the top of the wing, while toward the bottom, almost all of this balsa cap will be sanded right back down to almost the rear sub-spar. You could also make radius triangle sections, glue them on to the trailing edge and sheet the top side to match the wing, and then sheet the internal radius with 1/16 balsa to seal. (this is clearly pointed out on the Ziroli plans). You will need to do the same on the flaps, but opposite, so that, the flaps fit like a socket joint to the wing. On the flaps, just glue on 3/8 balsa and sand to fit the wing pocket. Be sure to put in hard points for the flap hinges. I recommend Hobby Lobby semi fowler style hinges. They work really slick. Sounds like a ton of work, and may not be easily understood in the written word, but Ziroli plans would come in very handy. It is pretty straight forward once you see Ziroli plans. Use any 5.5 or 6 inch wheel. Fuel tank of 30 oz. best, and locate in the huge cavity that you should have behind the firewall. To help you out with things…especially the flaps, I would recommend getting a set of Ziroli plans and using them for reference. His is 93 inch span, so very similar in size. It will clear up many issues. Good Luck..Jeff"

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Question 107: "Jeff, I saw in one of the posts talking about the flight characteristics of warbirds that you said that the T-6 (Ziroli) can be interesting. Is this mainly on the ground due to the narrow gear, or something else. I might actually finish mine one day and wonder what I have to look forward too. Thanks, Joe"

Jeff: "Hi Joe…..the problem that the AT-6 is inherent to is two-fold. First, it can be a wicked snap roller, especially at low speed and addition of quick and full power. In training, they always said that if you could fly an AT-6, you could fly any of the WWII arsenals. Second, similar to a Gee Bee, they like to bounce on landing. Flaps will help reduce bounce tendencies. This comes from the short gear, fairly short coupled moments, and the ground effect with the long wing. If the plane bounces, you need to decide if you are going to stay with it, or add power (not too quickly, per above) and go around for another landing. In many cases, each bounce will get a little worse, until you get into a low speed snap roll situation. As long as you keep speed up and fly it in, as with any warbird, you should be OK. It is definitely nothing to worry about, but just to be aware of. Hope this helps. Jeff"

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Question 108: "Do you know of any manufacturer who offers the Douglas A-1 skyraider in a kit. I would really like to find one in an A R F if possible. I haven't had any luck locating one on my own so I have come to the pros to see if you can help. Thanks"

Jeff: "The only ARF Skyraider I know of is the ..40-.60 size from Global. I had one of these years back. Was a nice plane for the money. See http://www.globalhobby.com/"

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Question 109: "I have been looking for a true to scale plan set for a carrier Corsair in which the wings fold. Is there such a thing or do I need to find some original plans and build it from (well sort of Ziroli Plans) scratch? This is of course next to my (in my dreams) P-38 and P-51 OOOOH and of course the Twin P-51 and the P-47 ......... "

Jeff: "First off…I had a twin Mustang a few years back….cool plane, and flew nicely. As for the Corsair. Earl Aune did this set-up on a Carsiars years ago. I know there are plans out there for this wing fold system, as well as his scale tail wheel/tail hook. But, I am not sure where to find them. You could start here: http://www.strictlyscale.com/earlaune.htm Good Luck. Jeff"

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Question 110: "Helloo Jeff, I know you fly the big,big planes and was wondering what you use. I have 3000 mamp nicad battery paks in My Balsa USA Stearman.What charger is available to overnite charge them.I do have a FMA's Super Nova but that is used more for fast charge.I could program the fast charger for a slow rate charge?Please help, flying season is just around the corner.Thanks, Harold"

Jeff: "Hi Harold....I think hands down, the best charger for you would be the Sirrus charger line. They are a tad expensive, but great for these big packs. Personally, I run multiple smaller batteries, and have worked with the Hobbico chargers. Jeff "

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Question 111: "Jeff, I was really glad to find your web site and look at your projects. I am interested in plans for a large Spitfire. I am looking for 33% or bigger. Do you know where I can find them? Rick"

Jeff: "Well.....I'll tell you. I am actually planning a 150 inch Spit for next winter. I hope to obtain a cowl and canopy from a gentleman in Australia that has built one. Richard Rawle, of the UK, was initially going to release a kit of his 144 inch spit, but I guess he decided not to. So, that leaves us with enlarging plans from what I see. I know of no commercially available plans for a spit that large. I have built about 6 spits from different suppliers. I plan to enlarge the Mick Reeves plans. These plans start out at 110 inch span, so you don't really have that far to enlarge to get to 1/3 size. You will get varying opinions on whose plans you should use. Here is my 2 cents. The Dave Platt plans are very nice, and easy to build from. The problem is, it is designed with glow motors in mind, and is older style building. Along with enlarging, you will have to make the necessary mods to incorporate a gas engine. Many people like the Brian Taylor plans. They are pretty nice plans, but I think there is a lot of putzie work that you just do not need (built up compression truss type, boxed fuse, with 1/4 formers to give it shape. I, personally do not like that building method, but many people do. Almost all will tell you that a Brian Taylor plane is a lot of work, but well worth it. I like the Mick Reeves plans. It builds very similar to Ziroli, and I like the method of a fuse supported on a crutch. Plus his plans are very clean and easy to follow. It also incorporates a set up for a 2 piece wing. So there is how I see it. Best of luck, it would be a great ship. Jeff "

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Question 112: "Jeff, I am looking for a set of West Craft B-17 and P-51 plans. Also, I am looking for the West Craft canopy, radiator, and air scoop for the P-51. Thanks for any help. Tim"

Jeff: "Hi Tim…I can’t help you on the plans for either, but I can tell you that the cowl, canopy and scoops from a Don Smith design P-51 will fit your P-51 from Westcraft. Jeff"

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Question 113: "Jeff, First of all, let me start by saying that you guys have an excellent website. I check it out frequently and always find useful info. My question is, I am wanting to build around a 100" span P-40 and was wondering about the quality and ease of construction of the American Eagle's P-40 compared to say a Yellow or an equivlent plane(fiberglass fuse). Any info you can give is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jason "

Jeff: "Hi Jason…..I can answer….kinda. I have seen or built 4 or 5 AE kits. They are all pretty much the same process. I believe the American Eagle is a Ziroli knockoff for the P-40. The fuse will be really easy to assemble. I If I recall correctly, it take about 3 or 4 interior formers. One for firewall, one for wing leading edge wing dowel, one at the wing railing edge and one for tailwheel support. Quick work indeed to install these. You will find the glass work to be of good quality, with little or no pinholes. Bob Sealy does nice work. Next you will have a foam core stab. You will have to sheet it, cut out the elevators and cap the leading and trailing edged of these surfaces. Easily can be done in one night. They call for no spar, but here is what I recommend. Obtain a Dave Brown carbon fibre pushrod. Sink this into the foam core, spanning the joint, with some expanding polyurethane epoxy, such as, Gorilla glue, Elmers Pro-Bond, etc. This is a stiff lightweight spar for added strength. Adds almost no weight. Now, the wing is the tuff part. I, personally, am not a fan of foam, but as time passes, I am working more and more with it, and getting more and more used to it. You will have to add spar material and ply ribs for the gear support. Also, if you want flaps, you will have to melt out the foam to create a pocket and box in for a split flap. There are many ways to do this, but a soldering gun with a piece of preformed wiring from an electrical conduit works great. The wing will take the majority of time, but will not be overly time consuming. Just be ready to work with patience here. What ever you do, do not just glue hardwood blocks to the foam for the gear. IT will not hold up over time. You will have to cut a box out of the foam. Glue 1/8 or 3/16 ply ribs to the sides of the foam, and preferably tie them in to the spar material that you add. This will make them very strong and built to last. Hope this helps. Jeff"

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Question 114: "Jeff, This doesn't pertain to war birds but I was hoping you could help me make a decision. I am considering building the Maratuka Beechcraft D-17 Staggerwing. I am not familiar with Maratuka kits and was wondering what your opinion is. I really like the Staggerwing and can't find any other manufacturers that sell a kit for the Staggerwing. Any help would be
apprecitated. Thanks, Nathan "

Jeff: "Hi Nathan...you may be familiar with the old "Royal" line of kits. Martuka is the old "Royal" line. If you are not familiar, I can tell you about them. Back when they first came out, they were pretty scale, in appearance, kits. I have not seen a MArtuka kit, and do not know if they have made any updates, but I would say that if it is still along the lines of the old Royal kits, they are pretty outdated. That said, they can be built into a nice plane. They are very time consuming to build, and require a lot of sanding and shaping of balsa blocks. But, if you have the patience, it will be worth the task. A note of caution is to watch the weight. If you are not careful, they can get pretty heavy on you, making for a ship that will not fly as nice as it otherwise would. Other than that, nothing to worry about. I don't know what size plane you are interested in, but Nick Ziroli has been working on a set of plans for a bigger Staggerwing, but has not released them as of yet. Also, the old Byron, now Iron Bay, makes for a nice one around 75-85 inch span. I think I saw one for sale on RCU here recently. But, you are correct, not a lot out there on this plane. Jeff"

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Question 115: "I have a ROBART P-38 that I bought at a aucton. It is about 80% complete. I did not get the plans/instruction with it, although the seller said he would send them to me. I have talked to Robart and keep getting a run around as to a set fo plans. Will the Ziroli plans be close so as to give the CG, and control throws to get it finished and airborn?"

Jeff: "Yes, that will be fine. The Robart P-38 is an exact copy of the plans built plane, just in fiberglass. I have flown 2 Ziroli P-38’s and they are great flyers. Good Luck…Jeff"

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Question 116: "I am just about done building a P47 Gold Kit. I decided to cover it in a product called Flight-Metal which requires a light application of fiberglass before applying. I have installed front &rear retracts, flaps, bomb release servo, and a 91FX engine. The plane's weight reached 12.5lbs without balancing. My concern is that the plane will now require about 1.75lbs in the tip of the cowl to balance. This will bring the total weight up to 14.25lbs and the wing loading to 46.05 oz / sq ft. Ouch!The kit recommends 10lbs (32 oz / sq ft). The only thing I can try to move forward is the small air cylinder on the rear retract that weighs 0.7oz. The battery is already over the wing CG. The bomb servo is where the aileron servo should be and an alieron servo is installed in front of each aileron. Anyway, the combined weight of the three items that I can move or get rid of (air cylinder, battery, bomb servo) is really not much compared to the 1.75 lbs that I need to be put into the tip of the cowl. My question is, will this thing fly or have I build a giant hood ornament? What do you recommend? Should I get rid of the 91FX (19oz) and dump a FS-120 (36 oz), since I need to put more weight in the front anyway? Will a FS-120 really help this thing fly any better than a 91FX or is the cost and work involved not really worth it? Maybe the higher power (2.8bhp) of the 91FX is better anyway? Is there a maximum allowable weight for this plane? Flight recommendations? Any guidance is appreciated. Thank You, Rafael"

Jeff: "Rafael, I would stick with the 91FX engine. While a 120 will weigh more, it will not be enough to offset the amount of weight you will need. If you want to get rid of anything, the best thing would be to remove the retractable tailwheel and go with a fixed/music wire set-up. Now, as for flight, there is one thing to remember. The GC shown on the plans is actually conservative, you could re-balance using the mean aerodynamic chord (MAC) of the wing. To determine this, grab your plans. Take the root rib length and add this to the trialing edge of your tip rib. Then take your tip rib length and add this to the leading edge of your root rib. Next, draw an “x” from corner to corner. Where the two lines intersect is the MAC. You want to find this point, and then take 25-30 percent of the chord at that “rib” location. Nonetheless, the plane, especially a P-47, will fly even at 14 pounds….I know, I had one. I had a 14 pound Sterling Spitfire. I ended up putting an OS 1.08 in it. The plane will fly fine, what you will need to do is just be sure you have plenty of speed before lifting off. In the air, you will never notice. Landing….just make sure you come is with power, and do not try to all out glide it in. I think you will be fine. It is true that it is not of preferred weight range, but just be alert and prepared and you’ll be fine. Jeff"

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Question 117: "Hi Jeff, Have started to put together the " Vailly Hawker Typhoon" and I'm wondering if you can point me in the right direction to anybody that builds moving canopy's for this size of plane?.Regards Brian "

Jeff: "Hi Brian…I plan on building that bird next winter. To the best of my knowledge, all you can do is work with the canopy from Roy, by adding your own channel and rails. You may check with Dynamic Balsa. He has a super detail cockpit kit, and may have a canopy set-up by now. Jeff"

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Question 118: "I am a skilled R/C Pilot, however not a great builder. For the past 12 years I have been involved with sport and aerobatic aircraft. Currently I have a 1/3 Pitts with a 3W-75 installed. I also own a pattern ship. I recently flew a friends P-51 Mustang for its first flight. The take-off was quicker than I expected, but during the flight, and after a perfect main wheel landing holding the tail up for the entire roll out I discovered the thrill of War Birds. All that leads me to my question concerning my desire to build a F4F Wildcat, and use my 3W-75 on it. What kit selections would you recommend for me. Thanks for your time in this matter. Steve, Westside R/C, Oklahoma city"

Jeff: "Hi Steve…I would recommend the Wildcat offered by Jerry Bates plans (http://www.scaleaero.com/jerrybates.htm) It was designed by Doug Imes, and Jerry bates took his plans and CAD them into full detail. It is a 92 inch plane, and would handle the 3W75 nicely. A shot kit can be purchased from Bob Holman, and retract are available from Robart. The plane is relatively easy to build with some building experience under your belt. If you have never built from a kit, it may be more difficult. The only other Wildcat I know of it from Bob Karlsson, but this is a 72 inch, and much more labor intensive (I personally do not like the building techniques of these plans). There was an old glass and foam kit called a Glasscat, but there are no longer, but you may be able to find one for sale on the net. It is also 92 inch span. Welcome to the warbird realm….Jeff "

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Question 119: "Hi Jeff just finished my Ziroli Corsair and need to know how much travel I need on the rudder and elevator. Right now I have about 1 inch each way on the elevator and 1 1/2 on rudder. Thanks, Kerry"

Jeff: "Good…another Corsair…I love it. Use at least 1 inch up and ¾ inch down for elevator. As much as you can get on the rudder, but at least 2 inches right for torque. 1.5 will work on the rudder, but come up on power slow….especially if you have a larger engine. Good Luck…Jeff"

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Question 120: "Jeff, curious if you know anything about the Jerry Bates P-40. He is now offering a 97" version which is a little larger than the Ziroli. I have the Ziroli now and am thinking about building another P-40, I like the idea of a bigger version like the Bates. Which would you recommend as far as scale and flyability? Also curious about the construction methods of a Bates plan. Thanks, Jay"

Jeff: "Hi Jay…..I was not aware of bates coming out with a bigger version…good to hear. As far as scale, I think Bates may be a little more accurate in outline. I cannot compare the flight characteristics as I have flown a Ziroli, but never a Bates P-40. I have built 3 bates planes and all flew nicely. I am pretty sure that all are proven flight designs. The Bates builds pretty similar to a Ziroli. Bates plans vary from plane to plane, but I think most use jig tabs on the wing ribs to build in the washout, as opposed to a balsa jig strip that Ziroli uses. I also think most of his plans have you build the top of the fuse flat on the table, sheet, and then flip it over and build the bottom on (similar to Top Flite kits). In any case, having built 4 planes from Bates (only flew 3 of them), I can tell you that if you can build a Ziroli, you will have no problems with a Bates. The only thing I, personally, dislike is that Bates puts a ton of scale detail and data on the plans, making them cluttery to read and work on. But, some people like this, and it is great in the event you want to add all the scale detail. Happy building….Jeff"

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