Please email Jeff your questions by click on "Contact Us".
Please label your email "Jeff: Question".

Some questions and answers will be posted in this section.

Page 7: Questions 145-168, click on links or browse page.
Q145 Westcraft Mustang ? Q157 Pica P-51 center of gravity ?
Q146 Engine offset ? Q158 St 3250 cooling ?
Q147 Dual batteries and switches ? Q159 Plans for a Maratuka Spitfire ?
Q148 Large Mosquito plans ? Q160 Enlarging plans ?
Q149 Aviomac 85cc twin for warbird ? Q161 Questions about Jeff's FW 190 ?
Q150 Servos for 1/4 scale Hurricane ? Q162 FW 190 for Q 100 ?
Q151 Bob Holman Mosquito engines ? Q163 From ARF to Kit ?
Q152 Engine to fit Yellow Aircraft Spitfire ? Q164 Correct hinges for Reeves Spit ?
Q153 Ziroli DC-3 construction difficulty ? Q165 Fuse construction question ?
Q154 Corsair scale prop for display ? Q166 Tape around Corsair fuel tank ?
Q155 Engine off center ? Q167 Servos for Ziroli Mustang ?
Q156 Boeing F4B4 construction question ? Q168 About enlarging plans ?

Question 145: " have found a Westcraft Mustang, 116" wingspan, for sale. Do you know anything about the construction, quality, etc. for this airplane? The plane for sale needs to be sanded and finished, but looks like an ARF in the pictures. Thanks for your help. Paul, Amarillo, Tx. "

Jeff: "I think I saw that plane on RCU a while back and looked at buying it. The Westcraft is a nice flying plane and of good quality. The fuses were fiberglass with rope stiffeners used to stiffen the sides. The wings and tail were foam sheeted, and set up for Anco retracts. IF this is the one I saw, it was a good price and well worth the money. They fly as good as the old Nosen's did. Happy flying. Jeff"

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Question 146: "Hi, I am building a Royal Corsair and it is coming out great!!!!!! I am at the point where I need to install the engine. The powerplant I have chosen is an O.S. .91 s-stroke. Should be plenty of power, but I have no reference on how to mount it. In that, what I mean is at what degree of angle and to what side to angle it. In the past any plane I have built has this information in the instructions. Cannot find any reference to an offset for the engine, Please help!!! I have 11 months of work into this bird, I really want to fly it more than once. Thanks Christopher"

Jeff: "Hi Chris, personally, I have never found a need for offsetting engine installations. I think this is a personal preference more than a necessity. In 19 years, I have never "intentionally" added up/down/lt or rt engine thrust. This may be a question to field to others, but I don't see offset as a requirement. Jeff"

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Question 147: "Hi Jeff, I have flown .40 -.60 size models for many years and now stepping up to my 1st 1/4 scale model. A Bud Nosen P-51 with a Q-62 for power. My question is about what I need in the way of batteries to safely power the receiver and servos. I am not sure about number of batteries, size, voltage. Not sure about the need for dual switches, opto-isolators etc on this size of models. What would you recommend??I am using a quarter scale servo for each flight surface that is mounted near it surface with a long lead going to the receiver in the fuselage. The radio gear is Futaba FM 7 channel. Thank you for your help Steve"

Jeff: "Hi Steve, for such a good size model, I always recommend dual switches for the Rx pack with each pack of 4.8 volt and at least 1250-1500 Mah capacity. It is cheap insurance. Just plug one switch into the receiver battery slot and the other switch in to an extra channel, which you should have with that plane and a 7 channel radio. I don;t think you need optic goodies, but I also like the i4C isolators. You can buy one for $75.00 and they work sell at splitting battery power for the receiver and servos. Nice plane....good luck. Jeff"

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Question 148: "Hi Jeff: As mentioned I am a large scale float flyer with a flight line of deHavilland Beaver radial and turbo versions (126") span and a "Hostetler 172 " on floats. (120") All flying with a G62. My intent is to start a 1/4 scale warbird flight line of a Hurrivane, Spitfire and Mosquito. Requesting info re your Holman 124" Mosquito. I presently have Holman Plans of the Mosquito 1/8 scale (81") wingspan (Drawn by Brian Taylor)

1) Did you enlarge these plans or are there other plans available for a 124" span?

2) Is there a supplier re fiberglass fuse and additional parts (cowling, canopy etc) for that size aircraft? If so contact person.

3) What are your thoughts re enlarging plans to 1/4 scale. It would increase plans 100% resulting in a 162" span.
What engine size would you recommend for that size model?

4) Are there any videos available of your Mosquito flying etc.

That's it for now, Thanks Randy, Ontario, Canada"

Jeff: "`Hi Randy, actually, I did not enlarge plans. The plans I used are from Bob Holman. He sells enlarged versions of that same 81 inch span plans you have. Bob Holman also sells the canopy, cowl sections and gear for the 124 inch Mossie. I think he may also sell the spinners. See If you went to 162 inch span, I would say 4.2's or maybe Q-100's would be suitable engines. Depends on the weight. My 124 inch weighed around 53 pounds, and it has a pair of G-62's on it. I can tell you that it was WAY overpowered. I rarely flew it at full throttle....only when showing off on the deck. Unfotunately, I have only one flight of my Mossie on a DVD. The plane flies wonderfully, and to me is the sweetest twin from WWII. I currently have another 124 inch Mossie framed up. I plan to get it in the air someday. Best of luck. Jeff"

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Question 149: "Hello Jeff, I have an Aviomac 85cc twin but I have searched and searched for a plane and came with nothing, the motor measures 12 1/2" from sparkplug to sparkplug already capped. The larger planes Zirolis and the kind, have a cowl diameter of about 11 3/8" the biggest and I like to do a very scale project. Are there any bigger scale birds like 1/4 scale thet I could fit this engine to? I am stuck and need a new project... Any comments, suggestions, etc. are very welcomed and appreciated. Thanks and best regards, Homero"

Jeff: "Hi Homero, In the realm of warbirds, there arenot many plans out there in the 1/4 scale range. They exist, but are limited. Off hand, I cannot think of any that would serve the Aviomac, unless you wanted to get in to Biplane...then there are several. One thought would be to blow up a Ziroli corsair (or the likes to about 100-114 inch span. The cowl can easily be made of wood, as the shape is pretty simple. The problem becomes, that, if you go larger, you start running in to weight issues that the Aviomac 85 may not serve. Another idea would be to look at the Zirol P-47. A friend of mine fit a big opposed twin in to the cowl by rotating the engine so that the heads point approx. at 10 and 4 o'clock positions. Jeff`"

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Question 150: "Hi Jeff, I'm italian modeller and i'm building an 1/4 scale Huricane. The model have this characteristics:

Wing-span: 3 m
Previewed Weight: 24-26 kg
Previewed Wing Loading: 160-170 g/dm2
Engine: 3W 150 in line (16-17 Hp)

I would want to ask which servo you would install for mobile surface of the elevator and the ailerons. The elevetors have one servo for every surface, therefore 1 for elevetor right e 1 for elevetor left. The ailerons have one servo on left aileron e one servo on right aileron. I'm doubt if to mount servo with torque 55 Ncm or 95 Ncm (both have metal gear and double ball bearing). Specifically the servo are: Multiplex Profi Digi or Multiplex Power Digi. You can them in this site: according to you is good install in every suface 55 Ncm or is better every 95 Ncm of torque? the ailerons need of the same force of the elevator or i could put those from 55 and in the elevators, to being surer, i could put those from 95? if there are other Multiplex servants who could go well he signals them to me. thanks for every your possible aid or council. Sorry for my bad english. Marcello"

Jeff: "Hi Marcello. My metric measurements are not that good. However, from what I make out, and from you saying that you plan on one servo for each flying surface, here is what I would go with. You will want a minimum of 100 oz./in. on each surface (aileron, rudder and elevator hlaf). If you go with at least 100 oz./in. per aileron, you will be fine, it will actually be slight overkill. Anything higher is just insurance. As for the rudder, I feel that 200-250 oz./in. minimum is preferred if you are coupling the tailwheel sterring with the rudder (driving from the same servo). If you split the ruder from the tailwheel (one servo for each), I would recommend 100 oz./in. for the rudder and that or slightly higher for the tailwheel. The tailwheel puts a real strain on servos. Now for the elevator, and running one servo on each surface, I would recommend at least 125-150 oz./in. per elevator half. The fact is that 100 oz./in. per elevator half is really plenty. Keep in mind, that if you fly the plane scale, the elevator actually moves very little. That, coupled with the small tail of the Hurricane means that 100 oz./in. is plenty, but I prefer to go a little stronger on the elevator as I see it as the most critical flight surface. To give you an idea, I am running one Hitec 705 metal gear servos (approx. 177 oz./in.) on each elevator half of my 90 pound, 1/3 scale Corsair. I have had no problems. The flaps will depend on how you set them up, but I would say at least 100 oz./in. per flap segment to give them a strong holding power at full deflection. All of my opinions are based on scale flight, as I don't expect to see a Hurricane "wrung out"....but, you never know what some people will do with a plane. Hope this helps. Good Luck....Jeff "

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Question 151: "Hi Jeff: Thanks for your info re my questions of large scale Mosquito (162") that you posted on the RC Warbirds web page. It was of great assistance in determining the size of model to build. After discussion with my son we are going to proceed with your 124" Mosquito model.(It made more sense since you have already built one and that plans and some hardware is presently available)
I have re e-mailed Bob Holman re larger scale plans etc. and am awaiting his reply.

Just two questions:

1) If memory serves me correctly, I believe that the last time I talked with Bob Holman he indicated that someone in the southern states (possibly Texas) offered a fabricated fiberglass fuselage for your size Mosquito. Could you advise if you have a contact person re fuse and e-mail or telephone number.

2) Since your G 62's had significant power for your model, would you suggest reducing to twin G45's.

That's it for now. I will check my e-mail and RC Warbirds web page re reply. Regards Randy, Ontario, Canada"

Jeff: "Hi Randy, sorry for the delay, was at the Grand Canyon with the family last week. I am aware, and owned one, of the fiberglass fuses for this model. However, I bought it second hand, and do not know who the fabricator was. I had heard that this person was no longer doing them. I can tell you it was fairly heavy. However, to be fair, there may have been more than one fabricator over the years for this model. I would check with Bob Holman on that issue. On my second model, I do plan to put G-45's on that plane. I am sure that even at 60 pounds it would be more than adequate power. Jeff"

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Question 152: "Hello Jeff My name is Martin and i am from Norway. I bougth a yellow aicraft spit 1/5 scale, and now i wonder what kind of motor i can fit into the cowling without anything sticking out. I am planning to build a keleo custom built exhaust system. Now i am a bit worried about cooling of the engine .do you have any good ideas on how to get enough cooling into the cowling, and how to let the air out again. pardon my bad spelling. I hope you can give me an answer to my problems? Martin Paulsen "

Jeff: "Hi Martin, other than a glow engine, the new revolution 50 and the ZDZ 40 will fit in the cowl. Best thing to do is to make a trough behinf the firewall on the bottom side, behin the firewall. It is not really noticeable as it is on the bottom, and you will never see it in flight. I just finished one of these with a G-45. Good luck. Jeff"

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Question 153: "Hi Jeff, I was interested in the 140" DC-3 by Ziroli and was wondering how challenging it would be to build. I've heard lots of great things about Ziroli plans but I've never built one of his planes. This plane would be my first true giant scale plane. This would also be my first twin powered plane. I have built and flown the Jerry Bates hellcat. Would you recommend this plane? Thanks. Ben "

Jeff: "Hi Ben, If you have built a Bates Hellcat, you surely can tackle the Ziroli C-47/DC-3. The plane builds pretty straight forward and easy. The toughest thing is the nacelles and engines, mainly the patience to build 2. IF you do build it, I recommend sticking with G-38's for engines. They seem to be the perfect fit. A good thing on the DC-3, is that the engines are close togehter. That's makes managing the plane a little easier with an engine out. If you have no twin experience, you may find it helpful to review posts by twinman here at RCWarbirds. He has lots of good input and information if you ar enew to twins. Good luck. Jeff"

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Question 154: "Greetings, I am building a TF 1/8 scale F4U Corsair and am researching a scale prop. I cannot find one. I need a cheap (because it is for display only) 3 blade 19-20" (pitch does not matter). Assuming I cannot find one I will probably use 2 2blades and construct one. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance. Richard"

Jeff: "I would look in to a Graupner prop that you can shape to scale shape. A true turn hub made to fit, would make good lookd for the governor hub. Jeff "

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Question 155: "Jeff, I'm in the process of building a YA p 47, I mounted the engine 1/4" higher then specified in the instructions. Yellow states the engine center line should be 3" from cowl lip. My g 45 center is 2 3/4" from the cowl lip. Will this make a difference? If so how and Is it worth remounting? Thanks, Peter"

Jeff: "Other than looks, which would not be noticeable to the naked eye, it will not present a problem. The plane will be fine, and will not affect flight performance. You may have to add some down elevator trim, but very little (if any). Jeff"

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Question 156: "Dear Mr.JEFF. I'm a modeller.Now I'm drawing a 1/4 scale model of BOEING F4B4 (U.S Navy biplane). Upper wingspan is 2285mm=90inch. The structure of this wing consist of n°50 ribs and n°2 beams (hardwood).
The problems are:
1) The shape and the size of these beams?
I estimate : square shape with 12mm*12mm of side.
To bear in mind that I must drill n° 2 holes D3mm throgh the section for fit the cabane wire.
2) What the right size of the engine?
Mr JEFF. What do you think? I ask Your opinion. Please help me. Thank YOU. BEST REGARDS. ANDREA (ITALY) "

Jeff: "Greeting Andrea, without really seeing plan design, it is tough to say what size your spars should be. However, my recommendation would be to not drill in the the sapr at all, no matter what size. This will only tend to weaken them. It would be better to come up with a cabane mount structure that would tie into this spar, preferably bolting parallel to the spars, with the mount supported (tied in) vertically. As for engine, it will depend on the final weight, but I would estimate something in the 100 to 120 CC range for best performance. If you could fit a 3W100 or similar, I think you would be happy with the performance. Good luck. Jeff"

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Question 157: " Jeff am building a Pica 1/5 scale spitfire. my dillema is the plans say the centre of gravity should be at 260mm rear of engine bulkhead . I am at the stage where only job left is to cover and paint main wingso fully assembled my centre of gravity is 400mm from reer of engine bulkhead . I have found in som old magazines a formula to calculate the centre of gravity ,uses wingchord calcs for main and tailplane also fuselage length.any way after doing the maths came up with the centre of gravity on my plane should be around the 420mm mark is the plan wrong? the plane weighs in at 16lbs plans say it should be 12-14lbs most other pica 1/5 scale spits weigh in at 20 -30lbs is this because they are adding lots of weight at the front Peter"

Jeff: "Hi Peter, well, the plans are not wrong...they are VERY conservative. I have owned both the Pica P-51 and the Spitfire. I have also spoken with the individual that made up the plans for both the Spit and the P-51. I had called stating that I thouht the CG was too far forward, based on my calculations. He agreed that the plans were developed with a conservative CG (nose heavy) for the novice pilots. I was able to shift the CG on the P-51 a full 3/4 of an inch for the rear point shown on the plans and it was still a bit nose heavy as I recall. At any rate, do not be alarmed in either direction. You can add the lead and blanace per the plans. The plane will fly fine, but it will be very sensitive on the gear, as all spits are any way, and want to nose over. When I had my Pica Spit, and even my yellow Spits, I balanced them at 5.5 inches back from the leading edge of the wing, and the fuse saddle. I have found that the Yellow can go back to 5.75 with no problems. Never tried 5.75 on a Pica. So, I would recommend for best flight and landing performance, overlook the plans and balance the Pica Spit at 5.5 inches from the leading edge at the fuse saddle. It will fly fine and make nose overs more of a non-issue. Happy fliying...Jeff"

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Question 158: "Jeff: Am building a Platt P-51C. Power ST3250 fully cowled. Cowl air outlet 200% of inlet. Seems 3250's are sensitive to heat. Would you suggest a baffle system inside cowl to move the air rapidly over the cooling fins and relieve hot interior air? Thanks, John "

Jeff: "Hi John, I flew the ST3000 for many years, but I have no experience with the 3250. I would think, assuming inverted, that the fins hang down near the front of the chin scoop, and if you have that much exit area, you should be fine. However, what I found worked with the ST3000 was to make a ramp on the back side of the fins to exit air out rapidly, so it does not turbulate around in the cowl. I would just bend some aluminum coming off the back of the fin area and radius it down and out the bottom of the cowl. I only had to do this on 2 being a bipe. The ST3000 always ran fin, uncowled, in my Pica P-51. I found this to be more effective than baffling around the fins. But like I said, that was on the ST3000's. You may want to check with Karl Allen to see if he has any experience. Jeff"

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Question 159: "I am not sure whether you can help me. My name is David from Auckland, NZ. I was given a 1/6 scale Maratuka Spitfire kit some 10 years ago and have misplaced the plans. I think they were in a 20' container I was using for storage which was stolen when I was overseas recently."

Jeff: "Hi Dave. I'm not sure if MArtuka still exists or not. i would recommend posting on RCUniverse, Warbird forum. There are a lot of Royal/Martuka kit fans there who can probably help. Somebody may even have plans avaialble. Jeff "

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Question 160: "Hey Jeff, I love your planes. I have a question for you about enlarging plans. What is the best way to do it? Do I just use a regular copy machine or do I need to go to a printer? Thanks, Brian"

Jeff: "Hi Brian, you will get varying opinions on this. I have always used and had good luck with going to Kinko's and having them enlarged. Insty-prints can also do it. It works well."

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Question 161: " Hi Jeff, I Really Like the Size and Looks of Your 110" FW-190A... I am going to enlarge my 90" Vailly FW-190A plans to build 110" Fw-190A , the same one that You built and Posted in the Fighter section....I have a Question..what did You use for a Cowl and Canopy..for Your 110" Fw-190.....I am only guessing ?? Did You use Meister's Canopy and Cowl forom his 102' Fw-190A..Joe"

Jeff: "Hi Joe, and thank you. you are correct. I used the Meister canopy, which fit almost perfect with no mods. The cowl is also from Meister, but I had to cut the cowl in half, laterally, and scab in some fiberglass to get the proper fit. While not great scale shape, it fits the bill as far as looks. If you build this plane, keep the tail light. I used 3/16 balsa ribs with 1/8 sheeting on the tail. Mine came out very heavy. It flies well, but landings can get heavy, and I have cracjed the wing a copult times. I would recommend 1/8 balsa tail ribs, with lightening holes and sheeting of 1/16 balsa to keep tail weight down. As you know, the FW has no nose to speak of. Good luck. Jeff"

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Question 162: " Hi Jeff, I'm starting a build from the engine back. The engine is a Quadra 100, reason being the the weight up front. Can you suggest plans for a scale of this size FW 190. Mark"

Jeff: "Meister is probably your best bet. Their kit is 102 inch. A Q-100 is a good match, and it is fairly easy to build. About the only other option is to scale up plans on the market. Also, there is the MAckay/Airworld all composite FW190 on the market. It is made in Germany I think. It is an A4 version and a bit pricy, but available. That has a 104 inch span. Good Luck. Jeff"

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Question 163: "Hi Jeff, I really enjoy the web site. I have assembled several ARF warbird models and am interested in building a kit. What warbird kit do you recommend for beginners? I have never built anything before and am interested in trying it out. Thanks in advance, George"

Jeff: "Hi George, building is a very enjoyable experience. Indeed, give it a try. I would recommend that you try something like a Dynaflite PT-19
or a Top Flite kit. These will be good introduction to the uses of Xacto knives, plan layout, sandpaper, etc. It will also give you
detailed instructions on the assembly process, and make you familiar with how these things go together. Once you doa couple of kits, I find
building from plans to be more fun and even easier.For me the hobby is 50/50. I like to build as much as I like to fly. That makes it a lot of fun. Jeff"

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Question 164: "Jeff, I'm in the process of building the Mick Reeves 1/4 scale spitfire. I have hinged the stab and elevator assembly per plans with 2 flat hinges on each elevator half. The largest flat hinge that I can find is the DuBro 1/4 scale hinge. Are these hinges going to be enough for the job? "

Jeff: "Hi John, Personally, I would add a 3rd hinge to each side, just to be safe. There will be some flex between the hinges beacuse it is only
balsa. The whole problem will be exaggerated if you use a large single gas lunger, with the vibration. If you do use just 2 hinges, I would
recommend metal ones. You may be OK, as the Dubro hinges are pretty tuff, but I just wouldn't risk it. If you lose just one hinge it could
be all over. Better safe than sorry, especially if you are not competing with the model. Good luck, it is a great flyer. Jeff"

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Question 165: "hey Jeff, I'm currently building a 1/6 hellcat from Jerry Bates and ran into a little problem with the fuse. The fuse is built in two haves and the top half is suppose to sit flat on the table. However I noticed that my hellcat fuse would rock a little from side to side. This means that the fuse must be warped. It really doesn't look that bad and I wasn't planning on doing anything to it, but I thought I'd ask your opinion. If I should fix it, how would I go about doing it? My only concern is that the wing might not sit properly and one wing tip might be higher on one side then the other. Thanks a lot Jeff....................Ben "

Jeff: "Hi Ben, this is a typical problem encountered with clam-shell building. I am not really familiar with the Bates Hellcat, but I am assuming
that you built the top half and sheeted it. Then, you turn it over and add the bottom formers and sheeting. I think you'll be OK from a flying standpoint, and that it is the aesthetics that will be the problem. The best way to correct this is to get the fuse as level as possible with your table when you flip the fuse upside down. This will give you a common reference to measure from. When adding the wing saddles, pay particular atention to getting them nice and square and level. From there, add your formers trying to compensate for the wobble by "eye balling" the former placement. If you can find the low side, you can copensate with the former placement by shimming it a hair. Trust your eyes, they will not lie. You can usually see an imperfection. Once you have the wing saddles and formers square, add sheeting. When you fit the wing to the fuse, just shim one side of the wing saddle, as required, to get a parallel fit of the wing and stab. Good luck. Jeff "

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Question 166: "Hello Sir. I see several Corsairs with white tape over the seams around the fuel tank to prevent fumes from entering the cockpit. All the models and paintings seem to have the tape perfectly placed like it was professionaly painted on, Ike Kepfords #29 for example. I have 2 questions about this: 1.- What kind of tape was used for this? and 2.-Was it really placed as neatly as our models show it?
Thank you for your response."

Jeff: "Hi Jeff, it is interesting that you ask that. As you may know, I have a 13 foot Corsair that I built and fly. I took this plane to a full
scale airshow last summer and got the tail autographed by 6 of the original Blacksheep. The conversation of this tape came up with one of
those gentlemen. The tape was used, primarily, to seal up the leaky fuel tank and prevent the windscreen from filiming up with residual fuel that leaked out. The film would make it difficult to see, as well as pick up any dirt and debris in the area. From my conversations with this Blacksheep, the tape was applied hastily. The only fact was that is was applied over the tank seam. Looks, obviously, were not of concern. Many time, pieces of tape were applied over older tape. As for the tape, it was whatever they had. Normally it was fabric tape...the same that was used to cover the gun ports until battle, to help preserve gas mileage and keep the riffled barrels clean from debris. Jeff"

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Question 167: "Hi Jeff Just A quick question regarding the servo selection for a Ziroli Mustang, Its my first giant warbird and this information would be very helpfull. I use Hitec radio equiptment. many thanks DANIEL"

Jeff: "Hi Daniel, I would go with 645MG for the ailerons and flaps. I would usually use 605's on the ailerons, but they quit making them, so I now use 645MG there. For the rudder and tailwheel, I would use a 1/4 scale 700 series MG servo. For the elevator, I like to use 2 645MG with a B&B servo doubler, but you could use a single 700 series MG servo. All of hitec brand is good, I love their servos, just disappointed they quit making the 605. Jeff "

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Question 168: "Hi Jeff, On enlarging the prints, are you running the print through in one direction and then turning it around and running it through in the opposite direction to get the full print and then mating in the middle? Mark "

Jeff: "Hi Mark, what I do is cut up the plans by piece (i.e. the stab, the wing, the fuse, the rudder, etc.). I then run these thru the big
copier. By doing this, you can virtually always get the entire print to lay on one sheet. You may have to really shop the plans to bits to get the various sections, but this works better than try to mate the center line. Jeff "

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Notice: Questions or statements regarding product quality and/or usage are solely the opinion of the writer and not necessarily the opinion or recommendation of or owner/webmaster. By asking a question you are giving or owner/webmaster the right to post your question and name on this page. Not all questions are answered or posted. All questions and answers are copyright


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