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Joe Huntley
Page 3 Questions 49-72, click links or browse page.
Question 49 Two piece wing for Pica Spitfire ? Question 61 B-17 kit manufacturers ?
Question 50 Heritage Dauntless kit recommendations ? Question 62 Ziroli kits ?
Question 51 Three blade props for a 90sp ? Question 63 Correcting a twisted wing ?
Question 52 Links for P-39 Aircobra ? Question 64 Large P-51 elevator/rudder linkage setup ?
Question 53 Enamel paint over lacquer glass finish ? Question 65 Free plans ?
Question 54 Balsa source ? Question 66 Aluminum wing tube securement ?
Question 55 Bates or Ziroli SBD Dauntless ? Question 67 Pilot figures in 1/7 scale ?
Question 56 Servos for Nosen P-51 ? Question 68 Correct scale for Cad print out ?
Question 57 Jigs for giant scale projects ? Question 69 Tacking up with CA than wood glue finish ?
Question 58 Where to get chart tape ? Question 70 Carbon fiber prop for warbird ?
Question 59 Iron Bay is pig latin for Byron ? Question 71 Aluminum finish ?
Question 60 Finishing patched fiberglass ? Question 72 Plummer's aluminum for finish ?

Question 49: "Joe, I´m building a 1/5 Pica Spitfire... The wing is one piece original.. Because I think this could be a problem with transportation, I´m planning to design it in two pieces... I have a 85" Sukhoi with the wings joined, using an aluminum bar.... I´m not sure if this method is usable for the spit because of the angle of the wings... Do you have any recommendations...? Regards,
Rudy Ehren"

Joe: "Hi Rudy I would suggest getting a hold of Iron Bay they took over all the Byrons stuff and Byrons used to have the metal joining bar for their planes and I believe but may be wrong they had the setup for a 2 piece wing. Another option would be to mount the wing to the fuse and break it on each side just past the Fairings as this will just be a straight line and so the same setup as on your Sukhoi should work. Joe "

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Question 50: "Hi Joe. I've seen the Heritage RC (now SkyShark???) ad and like the variety of aircraft they offer. How do these kits stack up in design, buildability and flying as compared to Top Flite and others? I'm a first time scale builder and these smaller models have appeal - no cookie cutter P51s, P47s, etc and manageable engine sizes. I really like the Dauntless. Comments? Thank you - Ken. "

Joe: "Hi Ken if their dauntless is anything like their TBM Avenger then go for it. The Avenger I am working on enlarging for him as he had wanted all his planes enlarged to about 1/6th or 1/5th scale. When he sent me the plans and instruction manual in cad format I got to see a work of art. There are a bunch of parts and are all laser cut. The scale cockpit was integrated into the framing of the fuselage and built in such a way it adds to the structural strength. The dash and several other areas is all laser etched in. The flaps have scale ribs built into them so that when you open the flaps it looks scale. So if the avenger is the same quality you will be very pleased and it would make an excellent competition piece .....Joe "

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Question 51: "Hi, Just wondered if you knew much about these engines. I plan on putting 4 of the 90 SPs in my B-17 swinging 16X10 or 12 3 blade props. Also who makes a nice 3 blade in this size? I like the Graupners, but they only have a 16X8 in 3 blades.
Thanks for any info you may have. Hans"

Joe: "Hi Hans they passed this to me I dunno for sure if they have what you looking for but try Desert Aircraft they have a wide Range of Props Did you also try Master Airscrew they got some new prop sizes I don't know if they have an 8 pitch or not but a standard pitch on a 3 blade is usually 10. Goto my website here I have prop charts on there. I hope I didn't misread your email but you want a 10 pitch for your 3 blades not an 8. Joe "

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Question 52: "Hello, just wanted to say that it's a great site you have on the net. Being a warbird fan (RC and real ones), I greatly appreciate this kind of sites; there isn't much out there like that. I'm currently building a p-39 aircobra and was wondering if you had some interesting links to suggest me. Thank you and great job. Marek"

Joe: "Hi Marek Yea I have a few Airacobra sites for ya.
There is a few for you. You might want to download a program called web ferret It is a Search engine program. It is way better than any online search engine as it searches the entire web, u can set it for various types of searches, and it filters out most of the bogus links you get with the online searches. You can get it at that is all I ever use for finding stuff and it has found stuff for me I could never find with the online engines. Enjoy And Thanks for you Comments Joe "

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Question 53: "Joe , After you finished with the glassing on your plane with the lacquer finish. Can you use any kind of enamels, (Testors, Krylon, Rustoleum) to paint your project. Thanx Daryl"

Joe: "Hi Darrel so far I haven't had a problem. Nelson hobbies paints are the water based and he said might have problems but if you wetsand the surface of the glass first and smooth it down then primer it good you shouldn't have any problems. I would also suggest you ask this same question in rcuniverse forum just in case someone else has since I mainly use just the nelson hobbies stuff now that it is about impossible to find lacquer paints any more which was always my favorite. Joe "

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Question 54: "Joe who do you recommend to buy balsa from for a beginner? Thanks Paul"

Joe:"Hi Paul it is only my personal choice but I use Balsa USA I think the url is the reason I use them as they are one of the least expensive out there and excellent quality wood. Since you buying online you cannot see what you are getting and since I completely trust them I have never been disappointed with what I received. Joe "

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Question 55: "Joe: Your recommendation for a first Warbird SBD. Bates or Ziroli SBD Dauntless? The building types differ from "clamshell" to "crutch/formers". I don't hear much mentioned about Bates Plans, are they more for the scale or expert builder?
I am not looking for a scale masterpiece, as 2 left turns and a landing is success for me! Thanks! Roger"

Joe: "Hi Kirsten I don't know too much about the bates plans other than they are supposed to build like a top flight kit. Myself I prefer the Ziroli and would suggest that one. It to me is just something about a big bird being built in halves if looking for a disaster as I personally feel that the fuse will be weaker gluing 2 halves together rather than solid formers. You Will get a lot of debate on that but it only my personal opinion. Also I know about the Ziroli plane and it is fairly straight forward and shouldn't have much trouble building it. Also the fact that Nicks website has a forum just for building questions about his planes and you will be able to get a lot of help if you need it. Joe "

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Question 56: "I have just started my Nosen p-51. I want to use a servo for each control surface, based on my hangar 9-p-51. Do these servos need to be 1/4 scale size or will a standard servo work? I plan to put the elev. and rudder servos at the rear of the fuselage. Also I am using a Fuji bt64 I know I need a stronger firewall, on the nosen plan it is a doubled 1/8 plywood . What thickness fire wall should I use? one more question for now, I don't feel great about the 1/4x3/8 wing spars on a plane this size, I have built top flite p-51and dc-3 and both had larger spars, am I safe to build the wing as drawn? I do plan to fiberglass it. Thanks for your help. Mike"

Joe: "Hi Mike I addressed this in one of the other questions with a link if your interested in them. But I personally use FMA servos and the ones I use have 110 oz torque or 138 oz torque at 6 v. I have found that those are plenty sufficient for most planes especially if you are using a servo per surface. The only time I would use bigger would be if I was flying an IMAC (Aerobatic) large plane due to the stresses they put on them. Remember normally we fly a warbird in a scale-like manner and not doing 3D maneuvers with them so we don't need 200 oz or 300 oz servos. For stuff like throttle and retracts mini servos or standard servos will work as there is no stress for the servo to push and now a days you can get nice mini servos with like 56 oz to them. As for the spars 1/4 x 3/8 is standard spar size. Kits like top flight Goldberg and others design their planes for all types of people so they overdo their designs which is the reason they are so heavy So that they can stand the abuse from say a beginner that just has to jump from highwing into warbird the same season. Ziroli uses 1/4 x 3/8 Vailley uses 1/4 x 3/8 and I think I am using 1/4 x 3/8 on my Hurricane. On these planes full sheeting and glassing will take care of strengthening up your wing. If you still feel unsure run a bunch of shear webs in-between the ribs. With them and sheeting and glassing you would be able to surf on that wing without damaging it. Joe"

Sorry mike missed your firewall question. Most of the firewalls for my planes are 1/2" I make them from 2 pieces of 1/4" or sometimes a 1/2" piece. I personally think the Lamination method makes for a stronger firewall especially if you run the grains opposite. Joe

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Question 57: "Joe thanks for answering my questions in the past. And I hope in the future I hope. I was wondering if you you tell me how to build jigs for the building of giant scale planes or does someone manufacture them if so who. Thanks once again. Paul"

Joe: "Hi Paul well that's a question that there really isn't a straight answer for as each plane is different but I will do my best to give you a good start. The word Jigs in my opinion was transferred all over the rc world from the IMAC (aerobatic) guys in the past few years and is really not all that important in our type of building. Now let me explain better, yes we use jigs but the jigs we use are just helpers for us because of the style of our building and not an absolute necessity for us as it is for the acrobat guys. See the acrobat guys have to have their planes so perfectly square and their alignment is so critical they have built all kinds of jigs to put their plane together so when it is done it will basically track a perfectly straight line hands off. Now that isn't realistic but it is the general theory they are striving to achieve. One of their big jigs is a fuse jig which holds their fuse pieces and aligns everything perfectly square and the fuse stays in this jig just about to covering time as some mount wings and tailfeathers etc to the fuse and do all alignment etc with the fuse in the jig. Now for us guys though it is nice to have a good straight flying plane and we all should strive to build them as perfect as the IMAC guys it just doesn't do for us to spent hundreds of hours building a fuse jig or a ton of money buying one as each of our designers builds their fuses differently and the jig wouldn't work for a lot of our planes whereas the aerobatic guys it seems pretty much every fuse for every type of plane builds the same and it is basically standardized.

Now there are a few jigs we can make to help us and some that we use often and don't realize it. First if you look on my site at my construction pages for a wing or tail feathers you will see I have a bunch of short 1/4 square or 3/8 square pieces. I pin one of these down on one side of a rib location that's marked on the plans then put the rib in place and pin another "jig" piece on the other side of the rib. What I have done is sandwiched the rib in between these pieces of wood and have just created a jig which holds the rib in place and holds it perfectly vertical to your building board. You can put all ribs in place for say an elevator and there they are right over the plans where you don't have to hold them up or worry about using a drafting triangle to square each one up. Another example is the crutch Nick Ziroli uses it is basically a jig you build it over the plans and then raise it up 6 inches or so with blocks then slide your fuse formers on and then pin or tape the crutch to the blocks to hold it flat against them and keep it from twisting. You then square up formers to it glue them, stringer them etc with it sitting just like it is. This is basically a fuse jig and it helps you build your straight fuse. The feet on wing ribs are jigs as they set up the washout for the wing or for those that don't have feet like Don Smith the little angled balsa template he shows on his plans for setting under the rear of the ribs to set washout is a jig. Basically in our business the word jig is overused and a misnomer. All a jig is is a tool you make when building to help you hold something. They are wide and varied as everyone has their little tools they design to make their building easier. The above are a few ideas and as you build you will come up with different gadgets for a particular construction phase but essentially there is no magic tool for us just little things to make our construction easier. Joe "

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Question 58: "Joe, Can you tell me a online store or someone I can order 1/32 and 1/64th Chart tape from? Thanks Chris"

Joe: "Hi Chris yes Dick Blick art supplies. Joe"

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Question 59: "Joe what do you know about Iron Bay kits I have looked at them but would like info from some one who knows them. Can you help??? Paul"

Joe: "Hi Paul Yes Iron Bay bought all the rights and molds from byron when they closed down. they have been doing a good job of keeping the same quality that we used to all get from Byrons I give them a 2 thumbs up. Joe"

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Question 60: "I have been working on remodeling my Kyosho Super Stearman, which has a fiberglass cowl. I have reworked the cowl so I can install a lower profile muffler on my engine, so the cowl now has several fiberglass patches on it. I would like to know how to finish the glassing job to give the surface a smooth, glossy white paint job to match the original finish of the cowl. Thanks,"

Joe: "Hi Nathan the best way would be to wetsand it with 320 or 400 grit and use automotive spot putty for any pinholes or low spots. I use "Green Stuff" from 3M any auto paint store will carry it. it dries very fast and is wet sandable. after all done I would use a light grey primer which will give the cowl an even tone to it then just paint it up. Joe "

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Question 61: "Can you give me a list of B-17 kit manufactuers web sites and where I can obtain them? Thank you, Doug Harrsch"

Joe: "Hi Doug well I don't know where to start. What wingspan you looking for. The only one that I personally know anything about is the don smith Plane. It isn't too bad of a plane and has a 138" wingspan puts out a short kit for it pretty reasonable. Dons website is All American kit cutters and Precision Kit cutters sell full kits. I prefer short kits as I can pick my own sheeting out but not everyone wants to try and figure out what they will need so full kits are easier for them. American Eagle Makes one but I don't have the URL for them, Aerotech makes one again no URL, and the last one I can think of is Westcraft. I am sure it wouldn't be hard to find the URLS for them. I do recommend the Don Smith one as a good flier but you have to be a good builder as he doesn't give instructions with it but the plans aren't complicated. Joe"

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Question 62: "Hello, First I must say that your web site is just the best. I have learned so much. I am new to RC planes or I should say coming back to RC it has been over twenty years. So much has improved. Looking over your pics of models I see aircraft by "Ziroli". Do you know if this company or person has a web site? Do you know if they sell kits? If so could you take the time to mail me back any info you may have. I know you must get a hard drive full of e-mails like mine and I thank you for taking the time to help me in any way. Kevin Cottrell"

Joe: "Hi Kevin, Thank you for your comments. It is appreciation from our fans that makes our advisor roles worth it. As for Ziroli his URL is He sells a lot of the glass parts, engines, glass fuses etc for most of his planes but doesn't sell kits. Almost all kit cutters cut his kits. I personally use Laser Lizard for my kits as they sell them in short kit form which means all the parts you would have to cut out by hand. You supply the stick and sheeting. Also there is Precision Kit cutters and all American Kit Cutters these guys sell full kits. Joe"

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Question 63: "Joe I am building a 96 inch Beaver and have found what seems to be a slight twist in the left wing the twist is from left to to right and front to back the left traling edge is off the board about 1/32 to 1/16 when the right leading edge is flat how bad is this and can it be corrected I hope it can be. Paul"

Joe: "Hi Paul not sure I follow you but if the wing is twisting with the rear up and nose down at the tip it sounds like washout which is good. The problem is your other wing needs to twist by the same amount. If it is not supposed to be that way the easiest way is to cut out your spars and redo the wing. Make sure to look and see that your spars are fairly straight ant not twisted. If it is sheeted you will need to rebuild the wing as once they are sheeted they will hold the twist and I personally have not found a way to get a fully sheeted wing to untwist. I also don't know if that little of a twist will really affect it that much so you might wanna go ahead and finish it and give it a try but the best way would be to redo the wing. Joe "

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Question 64: "Hey Joe, If I wanted my elevator and rudder servo under the wing on a large p-51 what would be the best push rod set up? this distance is about 4 feet. I don't mind pull-pull on the rudder as much, but I don't care for those control horns on top of the elevator. Any suggestions? I have used fiberglass rods and ny-rods on 60 size planes,this is my first giant scale,any suggestions? Thanks Mike"

Joe: "Hi Mike One thing I like to use is the dual elevator couplers from Gator RC Now they show them sticking outside the fuse but what I like to do is build a mount for them inside the fuse and then run torque tubes or single control linkages from each elevator to inside the fuse. Why do I use these you may ask instead of a wire with horn in the center. The reason is if you have retract tail wheel or any number of things (Torque tube for your rudder so it will be hidden in the rear too) these can follow the side of the fuse and you can keep the center clear. I don't personally like to have my servos way up front by the wing. I know a lot of people do it for easy access but almost every plane has access panels either midfuse or like the Hurricane right under the stab. You can set up your servo trays so that they are vertical and the servos are on their sides and easily access them for maintenance through these panels. Once you trim the plane you rarely need to access your servos other than normal maintenance. For servo size I never go by any rule I just go by what I have seen a lot of people use and what I have always used and that is I use 138 oz servos on 6v. Because I use 1 servo per surface and never had a problem as 1 surface unless you are flying a 3D aerobat will never stress the servo. I do occasionally use 2 servos on elevators it just depends on my mood as I fly low and slow. I have never tried the digital servos out there they are supposed to easily hold without draining much battery but 138oz servo at 1 per surface will be plenty. Try to keep servos as close to control as possible. Carbon Fiber arrow shafts make excellent control rods though if you do go clear to the wing as they flex very little thus reducing slop. Joe "

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Question 65: "Hi Joe, my name's Daniel Camerini, I'm brazilian. I love giants War Birds and I want have someone. Can you help to find free plans in the internet, because the North American plans is very expensive. One US dollar is 3.5 brazilian Reais. Can you imagine? One plan is 50 US Dollars (about 175,00 rais). I'm not so rich. Eh,eh,eh... Thank you for your help and I'm so sorry about my bad english. Have a nice day. Daniel Camerini São Paulo - Brazil"

Joe: "Hi Daniel I have a set of Dennis Bryant Lysander plans that say right on them they are public domain so I can email you a copy if you like. Also though they arent all that great there are several sites on the web with cad plans that with a little modification can be nice planes. here are a few urls most have a lot of links to other plans and if they arent large enough you can always blow them up:

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Question 66: "Joe I've emailed before, but I always have questions. I'm building the Ziroli T-6 with three piece wing. How do you recommend keeping the aluminum tube in the sleeve when you plug the panel in. (keeper arrangement) Ziroli also shows a brass tube and pin at the trailing edge. I was thinking about bolts and blind nuts through the tube and sleeve, and the same with the brass tube. I would have to build it up even with the sheeting in order to make it work. Is that standard, or close to standard practice?
Thanks, Joe"

Joe: "Hi Joe there really is no standard. I have seen people epoxy the tube into the sleeve on one side, you can screw through the cardboard into the tube, or epoxy a piece of ply onto the ends of the cardboard tube so the alum tube cant go out the ends. There is not set way, it is whatever you want to do. The only reason for attaching the tube to the sleeve is so it doesn't get lost when transporting so you can do anything you like. Me I put ply on the ends of mine and then take my tube out of the sleeve. I know it is taking a chance of losing it but I usually have a spot inside the saddle area of the fuse where I can slide it in for storage. Just think having an attached piece of aluminum sticking out one of your wings. It is dangerous for 1 and could accidentally damage something with it while transporting. Thus I don't make mine permanent. Joe"

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Question 67: "I'm looking for a ww II full pilot figure in 1/7 scale for a p-39 I'm building ,don't know where to look for them thanks mike"

Joe: "Hi Mike you will prob have to go with a 1/6th scale as I don't know of any 1/7th scale and you wont be able to tell anyway. I like the Ultimate Soldier series which you can get at K-mart, Walmart, Kaybee Toys, and Toys R Us they are the most realistic I have seen. The one that always can be seen is the P-51 pilot and will work for most. You can also get the officer and gentleman figures from Vailly Aviation under the civilian pilots they have 1/9, 1/8, 1/6 etc etc Joe "

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Question 68: "Joe, I have downloaded some plans from someone in CAD format and I want to print them out on a plotter. My question is how do I know what scale to print them out as so that they are at the right proportions? I am using DeltaCAD and it does have a "scale" button at the bottom but I don't exactly know if I should use the true scale in there or what. Could you help please? Ian"

Joe: "Hi Ian, Most people draw their plans full size in cad format so you just plot at 100%. However, some people don't so what you need to do is to measure something on the plan like the wingspan or fuse length. Most all cad programs has a dimension tool which you can use to measure with. The nice thing about cad is things can be drawn full scale in it you could probably draw a B-52 in cad at full scale though it would be a pain could essentially be done. So measure the plane and then you can always scale it up to the size you want if it isn't already there, then save the file then just print out at 100%. Joe"

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Question 69: "Hi Joe, I have built in the past by using ca, then reinforcing with wood glue from inside wherever I can reach. How do you do it? "

Joe: "Hi Mike I thought I answered this one before but didn't see it so maybe I did it for someone else. What I do when I build is I tack everything with CA and then before I sheet the plane I go back and glue every joint with wood glue. One thing I like to do is to add a few drops of Food coloring to my wood glue so that at a glance I can see any spots that I may have missed. My favorite color is Blue as it really stands out the best. Joe "

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Question 70: "Joe, I'm preparing to use an FPE 3.2 gasser in my warbird. While the fullscale SBD actually flew with a 3-blade prop, for now, I plan to fly with a 2-blade and maybe have a 3-blade static prop for display. The fullscale plane used a black prop with yellow tips, so I'd like to at least have my 2-blade do the same. Any ideas on how I can do this? I'm assuming I could use a wood prop
and paint it but not sure what the best prop brand/type is for this, and the proper technique.The manufacturer recommends a 21 x 10 Mejzlik, Menz S or GRS Carbon Fiber prop for this engine, but they're carbon fiber and/or sport-3D style props. I'd like to find one that looks a little more scale. Any ideas? Thanks, Tom"

Joe: "Hi Tom personally I love the carbon fiber props over all others and would recommend one of them just like the manufacturer. You could then paint the tips yellow and the prop is almost black anyway. You mention already you wanna have a scale prop and a flying prop so once you take the scale prop off and put on the flying prop it will be spinning and cant see what it looks like but will still see the yellow tips turning. The nice thing about the carbon fiber props used for 3D is they do a good job of braking your
plane if you need to. You can be going full throttle then back way off fast and that plane will almost stop plus they have a lot of thrust to them which warbirds need; remember aerobats and warbirds aren't needing speed but torque. So go with a Bolly or Mejlik if you want wood a Menz is good you can see several different props at Desert Aircraft site Joe"

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Question 71: "Hi Joe I would like to Finnish my T-6 with an aluminum metal surface look. What would be the processes/metal to achieve this Finnish??? Thanks JimF"

Joe: "Hi Jim there are several that will look nice. Flight Metal is a nice finish I Believe it is a self adhesive and you just stick it on. another great way is you use aluminum paste which you can get through most plumbing suppliers and after you glass your plane you rub it on and buff it to desired level (I have used this once) then you must be sure and seal it with a clear coat as it has actual aluminum pigments in it will oxidize. Both methods work well it is up to how much work you want. For small areas you can also get that self adhesive chrome tape from auto stores which works good too. Joe "

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Question 72: "Hello Joe, I frequently Read your postings with much interest, the site is grrrreat! My comment is this-- I went with IMP's Skinni-Dip and achieved remarkable results! After the glassing or whatever; going with a (2) part gray Urethane primer such as U-Tech brand, which is "totally" solvent proof and then following to the letter IMP'S instructions (masking off the separate panels as you go etc.) I would appreciate more information on the technique that you used with the plumber's aluminum -more specifically what you over coated the "paste" with and did it affect the rubbed on natural aluminum appearance? Regards,
Richard McFarland AMA52920"

Joe: "Hi Richard. I got the idea from an article I read in one of them rc how to book long ago something about scale finishing rc planes I think it was a Man How to. I can't remember the exact name and searching for it I couldn't find it you know about them loaning stuff out and never getting back. Anyway in the article the guy was doing the nose of an old timer and was doing a burnished aluminum cowl for it. I do it basically the same way I put out some paste then I thin it a little with mineral spirits and take an old T-shirt and dip it in and then start rubbing. I never used and undercoat but it would definately help to use a gray or silver primer under it. Now if you need a burnished look you just have to round the end of a dowel and chuck it into your drill and start burnishing. It would be a perfect technique for a
Spirit of St Louis model. I then just sprayed it with a clear lacquer but I am sure a water based clear or poly would work just as well. Why I like it best is that unlike flight metal it will show the raised rivets and panel lines easier as they will just highlight as you rub the paste on (a little goes a long way). Joe"

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Notice: Questions or statements regarding product quality and/or usage are solely the opinion of the writer and not necessarily the opinion or recommendation of or owner/webmaster. By asking a question you are giving or owner/webmaster the right to post your question and name on this page. Not all questions are answered or posted. All questions and answers are copyright


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