Question 169: "Hi Joe I'm scratch building a plane for the first time and after
completing the wing I realized the left side of the wing was 1/8 inch
longer than the right side. The wing span is 84 inches and I want to know
will this have an effect on flying the plane? If it don't have any effect
on flying the plane how much can you be off before it have any effect
on flying? Thanks John "
Joe: "John
I actually not too sure on the affect as i have not see this before. I
doubt that 1/8th inch would be detrimental to the flight of the plane
just will look weird. I wouldnt be wanting any more than that 1/8th and
I would probably cut loose the short half and rebuild it if it was me
but I dont think you will have any problems so wouldnt worry abt it too
much Joe"
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Question 170: "Good day, I have been looking and found nothing on folding wing,
only F4u type. I need mine to la along side Avenger type. I have some
thing built but held back on the final wing assembly till? Regards, Randy
"
Joe: "Hi
Randy The Avenger wing is a complicated one to do as it folds and rotates
at the same time. The only one that I know of that has been sucessfully
done is Nock Ziroli Jr's. I have tried to find out from him before how
to do it with no luck. I hear he gave up on it after it failed in flight
because of the folding wing so maybe because of that he would rather not
tell how to do it because of liability. I would say goto your local college
and to the engineering section and hit them up with what you want done
and maybe the instructor will make it a class problem solving project.
I have found for artwork and other stuff i need for my planes my local
college loves to help me out on that stuff as it is a learning experience
for their students. Joe"
Update from Jim Harder: "Regarding
the Grumman folding wing. The hinge is slanted outboard at 35 degrees
and then rotated rearward 30 degrees. Bob Holman used to sell a set of
plans for a folding wing Wildcat from England and it operates exactly
as in the Avenger. I have built 3 Wildcats with them and they work well.
It sure is handy to just pull the locking pins, fold the wings and stick
in in the back of the truck. No wing removal. The tricky part is making
a locking device at the leading edge of the wing. Jim "
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Question 171: "Hello Joe. I was unable to find Elmers Probond Polurethane Glue,
but found and tried Elmer's Ultimate polyurethane glue. Is this the same
thing? I was under the impression this stuff was sandable, but my results
where a real pain! Did I do something wrong or are these different glues
with different properties. Thanks, Ron"
Joe: "Hi
Ron I am not familiar with that particular glue but I know that probond
or the other equivelant glue is called gorilla glue sands very easy. as
far as I know, all polyurethane glues are foaming expanding glues and
should sand easily. some places I find probond are walmart, kmart, lowes,
or meynards and ours is not open yet but people say home depot carries
it. you shouldnt have any probs with what you got may just be a lottle
harder to sand,but when i get glues like that and have some beads to get
rid of a razor plane works nice til its flush with the rest of the surface
then sand . Joe"
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Question 172: "Joe, getting ready to start my Ziroli B-25 118" Version. What
is your thought on the wing center section? What would be the best for
radio access, a center section part of fuselage or removable? Room is
not that much of an issue as is bomb bay doors and access to radio compartment
and other stuff. the wing tips will come apart either way? Thanks. Chuck."
Joe: "Hi
Chuck I would opt for the removeable center as you would have to split
the wings outside of the nacelles to keep the strength in the wing and
it will make for a wide fuse and center wing to try and move around. My
wing when i was working on it was set up to be a 3 piece but you can pretty
mich do it as a 1 piece removeable if you have something at least 9 ft
long to transport. That is how I would do it."
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Question 173: "Hello Joe, I am building an FW190 1/5 and was wondering if I built
my own landing gear where can I find tires for these retracts. Thanks
in advance, Laurence."
Joe: "hello
Lawrence the place I use exclusivly now a day is a company calles scale
wheels http://www.scalewheels.com they are out of the UK but they are fast service and a lot less expensive
than Glennis. they also carry up to 8" tires. For my large Hurrimonster
project the 7 1/2" mains and the tailwheel only going to cost me
$75 for all 3 together. They also have some nice scale FW tires too. Joseph
Huntley, US Scale Masters Midwest Regional Manager"
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Question 174: "Joe , here I come back at you again. I want to scratch build my
first airplane...meaning I want to take a set of 3 views and try my luck.
Here are a few questions for you. How do I choose an airfoil for the plane
and washout? How do you or would you determine engine size? Determne incidences?
And when and where you should deviate from scale? I am looking at doing
a German WWII bomber/ twin engine plane and I want to cut it all from
foam.... Thanks in advance "
Joe: "Hi
Tony heres how I do it first for airfoils you can go here http://www.aae.uiuc.edu/m-selig/ads/aircraft.html it lists the airfoils
each aircraft used and theres a huge list of aircraft covered. Just use
what the original used and you wont have a problem. the only time the
FS airfoil wont work worth a crap is on ws 70" and below because
they are too small to get the benefit of them. for warbirds I always use
between 2 and 3 degrees washout I come at this over years of building
it seems all the designers for warbirds seem to keep in that range and
it works so why change it. Incidences I usually put a 2 to 3 degree incidence
in the wing and 1 degree in the stab rule of thumb i saw somewhere is
you should keep the incidence between the wing and stab with in 1 degree
of each other and no more than 2 degrees. as for aeronautical engineering
rules and calculations I dont waste my time with them I do what I have
seen done on most every plane I have ever built so I will trust whats
common and works over what may be mathematically correct. right now I
am designing a DC-7 and have 3 deg washout 2 deg wing inc and 1 deg stab
also doing an ME 410 and have 3 deg washout 3 deg wing inc and 1 deg stab
inc if you have good factory 3 views a lot of them will tell the incidence
like the DC7 ones did. When should you deviate from scale? anything under
the IMAA legal of 80" will need some deviation anything over you
can use FS stuff with no adverse affects and thats usually in airfoil
type. Joe"
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Question 175: "Dear Joe It happened the other way with me: I first obtained the
engine, now I need a plan. The engine is a 5 piston 60cc radial. Can
you advise me on a suitable plan for a Stearman or other similar plane
for which this engine can be used? Thank you Cor "
Joe: "Core
Balsa USA has a coupl should work a 1/3 scale sopwith pup http://www.balsausa.com/kits/kit.htp?id=24&shopperid=
or Zirolis 87" Stearman http://www.ziroliplans.com/pt17_choose.html Balsa usa has a couple others like a 1/4 scal neuport or zirolis DR I
which take 38cc or larger that should work for ya, Joe"
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Question 176: "Dear Sir, Im sure you get this question a lot so I apologize
in advance for asking it one more time. I was wondering what your opinion
is on the Top Flight Corsair (62 wingspan)? I see on rcwarbirds.com
and elsewhere that there are a lot of the giant scale Top Flights but
for myself, I think this is a bit much for my first war bird. In addition,
I read your article on how to glass with polyurethane and I was wondering,
would you recommend this method for covering the Top Flight Corsair in
question? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
"
Joe: "Hi
Phil I not that familiar with the TF Corsair but with all the TF planes
out there you know they are good flyers if not heavy little beastys. and
that brings us to question 2 I would use the glassing technique except
fot the glass part I would replace the glass with tissue paper to save
weight. there are a lot of guys doing smaller planes over in the UK and
they been having a lot of sucess with tissue and poly U. Theres a guy
building a Skyshark val on this thread http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=133&PN=1 that covered it with tissue. Being xmas time you can prob get a nice bunch
of tissue from walmart or the such dirt cheap. Joe"
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Question 177: "Hi Joe, I'm at the point of fiber glassing my TF Giant Corsair and
I will be using the West Systems products with 3/4 oz. cloth. My question
is were can I find the cloth in rolls. My local hobby shop can only get
it in the small bags (1 sq yard).
Thanks, Rob."
Joe: "Rob
you might go here https://www.cstsales.com/home.htm to the composites store they usually always have sales going on and a
friend of mine just got a 100 yard roll of .73 oz for $120 shipped to
his door from Thayercraft Industries thayercraft@earthlink.net He's got
from .56oz to 5.53oz at really good prices"
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Question 178: "Hi Joe, I have a question for you and
your pals. I want to build a P-38 for my son and want an opinion on Yellow
vs. Ziroli. I like the size of the Ziroli but I also like the completeness
of the Yellow kit. I already have 2 scratch projects in the works so I
am looking at the fiberglass kit options here. Any opinions on one kit
over the other? I really want the Ziroli but I believe I can complete
the Yellow quicker and for a few less $. Any suggestions or opinions would
be appreciated. David "
Joe: "Hi
Marvin its really up to you both are good flyers. Working with glass fuses
isnt very hard you mainly just have to clean up the seams and glue in
the firewall and a couple formers. So take your pic cause they both are
nice I would lean more towards theYellow kit if i was making the choice.
Joseph Huntley"
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Question 179: "I am looking for a good kit to build a Large mustang or equivilent.
What would you recommend. I am not the greatest builder but I love to
fly. I need something that is not overly completcated but can be built
by you average Joe. I am not apposed to ARF kits. I just want to fly BIG
warbirds Thanks, Jason"
Joe: "Jason
I would reccomend for you to go with the Top Flight Giant Mustang. First
thing would be to download the construction manual for it and browse through
it to see if you can build it you can get it here http://www.top-flite.com/manuals/index.html you shouldnt have any
problems as top flight designs their planes as a jumpoff point for building
meaning they give you step by step instructions with lots of pictures
and also keep the construction simple. Also there are a lot of people
out there that build their planes so plenty of help on the web if ya become
stuck. Happy Holidays Joseph Huntley"
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Question 180: "Have you ever built a Bud Nosen Corsair of the plans? My question
is where is the best spot to place the servo tray? The plans don't show
anything about servos or controll surfaces or tank placement. Thanks Rick"
Joe: "Hi
Rick I am not sure on any Nosen planes as i have never even seen a set
of his plans but will try to help you here.
First thing is he probably doesnt show any locations as other designers
dont either due to the fact everyone has their favorite way to mount.
that being said the best way is to locate the servos as close to the controls
as possible and use a short wire control rod. you would wqant to mount
the servos for the flaps and the ailerons in the wing. the best way to
do that is to mount them sideways on a removeable servo tray and use a
short metal pushrod maybe 6" or less long direct to the flap or aileron.
this gives you the optimal slop free control to the flap or aileron. for
the tail feathers you want to keep them as far forward as possible to
help keep tailweight down. A good location could be in the fuse just behind
the trailing edge of the wing opening that way you can acess them through
the opening in the fuse where the wing mounts. the fuel tank iof using
a gasser isnt too critical just find a place somewhere in the nose to
mount it. if using a glow engine you need to make sure it is in the nose
as close to the firewall as possible and centered with the carb. I hope
this helps some any more questions on it feel free to email me. Joseph
Huntley"
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Question 181: "Is there a great site for P40 Detail like the one on the corsair
that you listed ? "
Joe: "hey
lou here ya go aircraft resource center http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/ tons of plane walkarounds and several on the P-40E "
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Question 182: "Hi Joe, hope you had a nice Christmas, I did but I didn't get any
parts for my B-25! ( Didn't expect any either ) Looking for a push rod
like dubro or sullivan but stronger. 2 part system 1 rod in a rod. Chuck"
Joe: "Chuck
I would go with the carbon fiber pushrod system they ar 2 part and very
stiff lot better than the sullivan or dubro
Joseph Huntley "
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Question 183: "Hi Joe, First of all, "Happy New Year" to all you folks
at RCWarbirds, along with my sincere appreciation for a job-well-done...your
site HAS TO BE one of the top sites (if not #1) in the whole world on
the subject of warbirds. I log on almost every day to see if there are
any words of wisdom to be gobbled up... Now then, I got two questions,
whereby one may not be in your area of expertise, but perhaps you can
kindly pass it on :
1.Do you have any advice to offer on proper painting technique and cure
times...meaning to say, once the plane is glassed, sanded and smooth,
how to correctly proceed from there. Again, not choice of colors, but
HOW to do it, so that it sticks and looks good.
2.Seems that 90% of the scale modellers build either Mustangs, Corsairs,
P-47's, with the odd sprinkling of ME-109's and FW's...myself, I'm looking
for something a little more exotic and along the lines of the YAK-3 or
LAK type model. Do you know of anyone that can provide plans/cut kits
for WWII Soviet or Japanese (not Zero) fighter aircraft? (80" or
above wingspan) ?
Thanks & best regards, Jim, Hamburg, Germany "
Joe: "Hi
Jim thanks for your comments and Safe Happy new year to you also. First
let me answer the second question first. If you want some really unusual
planes Vance Moshur of Vanguard Vancouver has some really nice stuff and
very nice detailed super scale plans http://www.vanvan.us/ you may want to look at his Wyvern now for a little bigger and in Russian
and Jap stuff I would look towards Don Smith http://www.donsmithplans.com/
To answer the first question
that would require an entire book on it what I would suggest is to order
the Higley book "There are no secrets" http://members.aol.com/harryhig/Books3.htm Catalog Number BOK002 ot covers every aspect of painting and finishing
your plane. it has several compatability charts, how to thin paints, mixing
paints, etc etc etc I think it is less than 20 bucks and would answer
all your painting and finishing questions. Joseph Huntley"
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Question 184: "I would like to now, when is necesary to have more than one receiver
in the plane... Thanks"
Joe: "Hi
Eduardo fisrt I would like to state that it is not necessary to have 2
recievers in any plane. What the use of 2 recievers in the plane does
is builds in redundancy. The most common methoed of this is to hook 1
side of the planes controls up to 1 reciever and the other sides up to
the other receiver this will theoretically help give you some overall
control of the plane in case of a receiver failure. Another method is
if you use multiple servos per control surface say 2 servos per aileron
or rudder put 1 servo of the right side aileron on 1 reciever and 1 on
the other receiver same with the left side. this basically does the same
thing gives you control if you lose a receiver.
My opinion on this personally is that if you check your radio and batteries
regularly and replace when necessary 1 receiver is plenty safe enough.
I also like to use fiber optic servo extensions on my giant scale planes
which you can get here http://www.geocities.com/traviscouch/hightech.html from Roger Forgues as they isolate the servos from noise and other interference
and the servos have their own battery and the receiver its own. you can
read more abt the tech stuff and their benefits on that site. I feel the
use of fiber optics does away with the need for a second receiver. again
this is just my own personal view on this. Joseph Huntley "
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Question 185: "Hi Joe. I am planning to build a Ziroli P-38, and really would love
to have working fowler flaps. That seems to me to be one of the really
cool things about a P-38, seeing them come in with the fowlers extended.
There is an article in the book "Radio Control Airplane How to's,
vol. 1" that outlines a method for fowlers using small pneumatic
cylinders. The real problem for this size P-38 (1/5 scale, 114" WS)
is that the flaps extend about 4 inches from the front of the flap to
the extended and dropped position. I talked to a guy at a local hobby
shop who is building his own ZP-38, and he has been trying to get that
system to work, and says that it is not reliable, and he did not want
to use it. He says his don't deploy reliably, as in sometimes one of them
will not come down, or one of the cylinders hangs up. This is one of the
reasons his is still not finished. The article states how reliable they
are, and the author has never had a problem with his. I had already purchased
the cylinders (about $150!) before he told me about this, and want to
hear someone else's opinion. The design seems sound to me, but I am not
an engineer, and want some guidance. This is a long-term project, but
I'm committed to getting it done eventually. Thanks for your input, Sonny. "
Joe: "Hi
Sonny well there are several ways to do it reliably basically you just
need to make slide hinges and to hook the piston up to the flap to drive
it forward. I have that book and yes they over complicate it too much.
Robart sells fowler flap hinges but they are pricey http://www.robart.com/New%20Pages/Hinge.html if you goto this page though http://www.precisiondesigninc.com/fowler.htm you can see a hinge pattern then in your flaps just need some kind of
rod or whatever to ride slop frr in the tract then your pistons mount
them to the flap using a ball joint or similar. I know this isnt much
but that page will help you tons then just gut you some hinges out of
brass plate or something and do a mockup with some flat stock. remember
the curved hinge will take care of the down and back part you just need
to then tweek it for the travel distance. Joseph Huntley"
Readers Update: "Question 185 from Sonny asked about fowler flaps for the ziroli
P-38. The author (Robert Alms) of the article in the book "Radio
Control Airplane How to's, vol. 1" has updated his design to use
servo operation and has simplified the design. A friend has a P-38 flying
using the design and I am working on one. Check out rcstore.com and search
for fowler flaps and order the plans #fsp03972 good luck. Ross"
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Question 186: "So Joe, I'm building my first warbird and its a TF P-47 and now
I'm at the point where I need to make a choice about the engine.My choices
are from a .60 two stroke to a 1.20 four stroke, my question is which
one is better?"
Joe: "I
am not up on the small engines as I use gas but I would lean towards the
4 stroke as it will have more power and sound better. On the other hand
I have seen people fighting to get their 4 strokes to start and to run
properly. now that may be the person and not the engine but feel it is
worth pointing out. As for 2 stroikes I have had several of them and never
had any problems with them other than all the slime on my plane and cost
of fuel. So I would vote for the 4 stroke even with the few people I have
seen have problems with them just because of the power and sound but you
can never go wrong with the reliable little glows especially if you use
onboard glow system Joseph Huntley"
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Question 187: "I am looking for a first kit that would be good for a first time
warbird builder. I have built 4 kits previously although no warbirds. Thanks Bryan"
Joe: "if
you want a really nice flying plane and one thats scale and a lot of detail
built into the Structure and at a decent Price I would go with one of
the skyshark kits. you can get them Here http://www.rcscaleproducts.com/kits.htm whats really nice is that the cockpit is built up scale like with the
framing of the fuse. If you want to see a construction article on one
you can go here http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=133&PN=1 Graham from the UK is doing a Skyshark Val Divebomber and has the entire
build posted there it shows you what the plans look like and how it builds
remember better informed of decisions helps. Second if you dont like those
kits I would go with one of the top flight giant scale warbirds they are
ok but a pain to build and tend to come in heavy. Joe"
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Question 188: "Hey Joe, I first have to complement you all and your magnificent
effort to help others to learn, understand, and enjoy scale building.
I'm red eyed from reading, and I have learned so much. Thank you all.
Now, I'm building a 1/4 scale widgeon with radials engines. It has typical
chrome plated spinners which are screwed to the back plate. The prop cutouts
are oversize with gussets screwed to the spinner to remove the air gap
between original cutout and blade. At the moment, I don't think my True
Turn spinners will work for static competition. Do you have any ideas
where I might find a more true to scale spinner without the center hold
down screw. Thanks again for your help. Jack McGeough "
Joe: "Hi
Jack Sorry I dont but maybe one of our readers will see this and reply
Joseph Huntley"
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Question 189: "My friend and i are starting the construction of 2 A&A ind P-51
Nosen kits and the question is this. the plans show using pushrods and
bellcranks for the ailerons and flaps. would it be better to have the
servos closer to the surfaces they control and housed in the wing or do
it via the pushrods. if using pushrods would the cable and sheath style
work or not? also what kind of reinforcement will this require to mount
annco retracts in the wings. i have bulit a few planes in the past but
nothing this big so any advice is greatly appreciated. thanks Craig /
Chuck"
Joe: "Hi
Craig and Chuck I always try to put my servos in the wing as close to
the ailerons or flaps as possible then use stiff music wire for the control
rods. The only thing I use them plastic pushrods for is to mount in the
wings or fuse to run retract hoses through so I can change them once a
year so I know I have reliable hoses with no leaks"
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Question 190: "Joe, I had followed all the instructions using the Lacquer to seal
and finally "glue" the glass onto the parts. When it had dried,
there were some "resin" bubbles remaining . Prior to brushing
the lacquer onto the glass, I had smoothed out the glass until it was
almost a perfect smooth skin to the balsa. i.e. no wrinkles of any sort.
Is the resin bubbling normal, or had I inadvertantly erred in my application
of the lacquer. Otherwise, the finish is just extraordinary. My second
coat should be applied tonight, then primer will be the next process to
complete. Your comments please, thanks,"
Joe: "Hi
Lewis only thing I can think of caused it is possibly ya shook the can?
The poly can't be shook but stirred up slowly. It won't hurt any having
a few small bubbles and if the break leaving small pinholes then the second
coat should cover them up. Also I use scratch filling primer for my fisrt
primer coat and it will fill all those small holes up. Just remember dont
shake in case you did. "
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Question 191: "Hello Joe I read your sight and was wondering where or how I could
solve this problem. I bought the old Royal Matuaka Corsair F4U-1A 98"wing
span and 80" fuse.the plans are tough as follows; no fuel tank drawing
no retracts drawing no flaps drawing no wheel sizes etc. I am not a warbird
expert but I built alot of planes. I bought the Robart whole set tail
wheel, main tank etc. I even bought another set of plans nothing. Can
you help me. thank you for your time
Tony. PS The plane is not hard to build but I would like to do it RIGHT
"
Joe: "Hi
Tony have only built 1 corsair and that was many moons ago so I dont know
what help I can be. For the fuel tank a lot of designers dont show them
as it is personal preference where to place it and most the time there
is a spot behind the firewall for them to be placed. for the tires it
sounds like you have a 5th scale and 5 1/2" tires would be the tire
size if you go by what ziroli recommends on his site for 5th scale. as
for flaps I could only say Maybe ask Jeff quisenbury and gather all the
documentation and pictures you can. for the retracts thats one of them
I cant help ya with other than to say the fixed gear position will give
you a starting place. "
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Question 192: "Hi, Joe I have just purchased plans to build a ziroli zero. This
is my first large scale plane that I will be attempting to build but.
I really want to make this plane as realistic as possible but don't really
know how to do the build up to make this happen. I would like to know
if you know of any book that give good tips and info on building realistic
scale war birds. Thanks for your time. Michael"
Joe: "Hi
Michael there are a few books out there with scale how-tos but in my opinion
they are about worthless as most show stuff everyone can see in magazines
etc and most are for stuff like civilian thing like piper cubs etc. I
would suggest joining rc scale builder http://www.rcscalebuilder.com it is a forum dedicated to scale and everyone posts their builds online
to help newbies and share their techniques. You will find such prestigious
names as Dave Platt, Jerry Bates, Pat Mc Curry, the head of scale Masters
Earl Aune, and our own Darrell Tenny. that would be a great start just
start a thread in Ziroli Forum for your Zero and ask for any help on the
build and any ref and any scale tips and you will get it. Now
thats for as you go help etc. What I would suggest is to visit various
websites of people building scale warbirds as there is a lot of tips there
I would definately Start with my friend Toms Site
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/ he is a former plastic modeller and just completed a Jerry Bates Dauntless
and you literally cant tell it is a model!!!! he shows how to do every
itty bitty scale item in detail and always willing to answer questions.
you will find him on rcscalebuilder also. and if you need help on the
fly they have a chat room where pat and jerry and myself and others can
be found to help. Most of us run webcams in our workshops where we can
litterally show you something if you cant picture it.
here is a few to get you started beginning with my
own site:
http://home.mchsi.com/~jahuntley
http://www.strictlyscale.com/
http://www.flyinglindy.homestead.com/b25construction.html
http://www.homestead.com/evoshangar/home.html
http://hoverhans.8m.com/
Joseph Huntley"
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