Rob is on hold and will not be accepting questions at this time.

Rob Bailey
Page 4: Questions 73-96, click on links or browse question page.
Q73 Corsair static model windvane ? Q85 Fokker DVII covering, finishing ?
Q74 Nelson Hobby or KlassKote painting systems ? Q86 Fiberglass to ABS application ?
Q75 First time glassing ? Q87 Satin finish for Stearman ?
Q76 Top Flite Gaiant Mustang, film or glass covering ? Q88 Latex paint over Monocote ?
Q77 Cockpit for Top FLite Mustang ? Q89 Refinishing fiberglass ARF ?
Q78 Filling weave in Super Coverite ? Q90 Latex paint ?
Q79 Details added to MonoKote finish ? Q91 Latex application ?
Q80 Covering control surfaces ? Q92 More latex adivce ?
Q81 Invasion stripes application ? Q93 Latex primer ?
Q82 1:5th scale pilot source ? Q94 Soon
Q83 Glassing wing fillets ? Q95 Soon
Q84 Paint colors for WWII aircraft ? Q96 Soon

Question 73: "Hi Rob - I am an experienced builder of r/c multihull sailboats. 48 long by 48 wide with a 6 foot mast! Recently a very close friend retired from where we work, and he has always "loved" the Corsair fighter. He doesn't fly r/c planes, and I came up with what I thought would be a "brilliant" idea - something that I have not seen before and perhaps a niche market as I too am close to retirement. My idea was to build a solid foam model of the Corsair. Cover with .5 oz epoxy/glass and paint to meet the general colors and details of the Corsair. I was thinking something along the size of a 39 to 48 inch wingspan. Because it would be significantly lighter than a solid wood model, I came up with the idea of mounting two next to each other connected by 1/4 or 3/8 stainless rod, perhaps in a flying formation, with one slightly behind the other. Once mounted in this manner, the secondary metal mount would be to tilt the two as though they were entering into a turn. Add a free-turning prop to each, and then mount the collection of both on top of a post with a bearing based ability to swivel. Stick the post in the back yard of his home, and looking out the kitchen window he would see both planes as they aligned themselves with the prevailing winds - a rather unique windvane for the guy!

So - questions, questions, questions - I would like to find a set of plans for the Corsair - and size isn't critical as I have access to a wide format printer, so enlargement to whatever size isn't an issue. Of course, building cost would be, especially if I proceed with two, and I can manage to hot-wire cut a foam wing, however that might be the component that I would elect to purchase - along with a decal set for each plane.

Any assistance in making this idea become a reality would be appreciated - sources of wing supply, and similar, etc. is needed. I think I have the scratch building skills to make this work, and would determine after I am done if it is something to do to stay busy after retirement. Greatly appreciate your comments, suggestions and opinions. Thanks much"

Rob: "Hi Dick, You definitely have some building experience under your belt! I've always loved to watch the guy's with their big sailboats, but the bug never really bit me. Sounds like a cool project you have in mind, and one that I'm sure would be much appreciated, and provide lot's of enjoyment too!
Personally I haven't worked a great deal with styrofoam, aside from sheet wing cores. But if I were thinking about doing this, I would take the easy way out. There are several good park-flyer foam Corsairs on the market today. In fact GWS makes 34.6" wingspan (can be found at any bigger retailer Horizon, etc.) and Dymond makes a 36.61" Corsair .
Either of these can be purchased for about $50 - $60 , and then all you would need to do is glass and paint them. You wouldn't have to do the "design" work with the foam...why reinvent the wheel? But may be just the kind of guy who would want to do it "just because"...some projects aren't any fun if they're too easy. I hope that this will at least give you a starting direction? Best of luck with an interesting project! Rob"

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Question 74: "Rob in your opinion what paint system would you choose if you had a choice between the Nelson Hobby paint or Klasskote? I have spent a long 2 year stint building a 1/5 scale FW 190 and want to mix and spray the colors myself. I would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks"

Rob: "Hi Wayne, Well, both Klass Kote and nelsons paints are very good quality without question. Either would give an excellent finish to your model. I have not personally used Klass Kote paints, but I have several friends who use them regularly with great success. I have used Nelsons paints with great success as well. Personally, I am a big fan of "Easy", as in Easy to use, easy to clean up...Easy! With this in mind, I would choose the Nelson's paints for several reasons...they clean up with water (Easy), they are available in pre-mixed RLM and FS colors (Easy), and overall, it would be less expensive to use the Nelson's paints (Easy on the wallet).

So with that being said, it is just a matter of personal preference. Both are excellent quality products. Personally, I have used only latex for the past several years, and have no complaints with it whatsoever. Like I said, it just comes down to what you are comfortable with using. Don't forget to shoot us some pics!
Take care, Rob"

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Question 75: "Hi Rob love the site, Im going to build the P40 warhawk and am just wondering about glassing it, I have made a few models now but all have been covered in profilm. Does the wing and tailplain surfaces get balsa sheeted for the glass or does it shrink over the framework like film?
Does the glass add much weight or alter flying characteristics?Thanks for the help"

Rob: "Hi Mick, Thanks for the kind words about RC Warbirds, Paul has put together one of the best sites on the web. If you love RC warbirds, this is the place to be!
Well for starters, in my opinion, any warbird beyond a .60 size should be glassed! In general, glassings is a bit heavier than the iron on films, but it has many advantages which out weigh the minimal extra weight. Glassing an airplane isn't really difficult at all, once you understand the process.
If you are glassing the model, the surfaces must be sheeted, the glass cloth and finishing resin will not shrink over the framework. It needs a solid surface to adhere too.
As for altering flying shouldn't unless you are too heavy on the resin and gain too much weight. There are many good "How To" articles on glassing, and one of the best in my opinion can be found on Art's Hobby website at:
Once you have one or two glassed airplanes under your belt, you will develope and refine your own methods. For starters though, if you follow this procedure, you will come out with an excellent finish without gaining much weight whatsoever.
Don't forget to shoot us some pics when she's finished!
Happy modeling,

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Question 76: "Hi rob just a quick question, I was looking at buying one of these top flite giant scale mustangs, i read the manual over the net and it says that you cover it with iron on film, for a better finish could you glass this model also would a zenoah G45 be enough for this bird? Thanks Mick"

Rob: "Hi Mick, Ah, I like the TF Giant 'Stang...mine lasted about 8 seconds...I was much too anxious to get it in the air and you guessed it...forgot to balance her! Anyway, back to the point at hand. I would recommend glassing this model...the finish you can put on a glassed model is just so much better than the iron on film allows. As for the engine, a G-62 is commonly used in these birds. In fact, I had a Zenoah G-62 in mine too! I know lot's of guys flying these with G-62's...not slow! I have seen a couple on G-45's, Quadra 52 would also be a good choice for this model. It's just depends on who you like to fly. If you like to tear it up, go with the G-62...for more "scale" flight, either of the the other 2 engines would be a good choice. If you'd like more info before choosing your engine, shoot an email to Karl Allen the "Engine Advisor" here at

Good luck and don't forget pics when she's finished!

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Question 77: "Hello. I'am building a Topflite 1:5 Mustang and i'm looking for a complete cocpit for it, do you have any idea where to get one of those?
Thanks Thomas form Norway"

Rob: "Hi Thomas, Try Dynamic Balsa they have what you're looking for! Their website address is: Best regards, Rob

PS. Send us some pics when it's completed!"

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Question 78: "Started building a RCAF Chipmunk with the intent to build it stock and fly......Now that it is ready for paint I want to go ahead and add some surface detail. The wing is covered with Super Coverite, two coats of nitrate dope and two coats of Rustoleum grey primer. I want to similate the leading edge as metal and add rivets and panel lines. Any ideas on how to fill the weave other than lots of coats of primer?"

Rob: "Hi Phillip, First, I appologize for the late reply. My health has really got me back logged on too many things.

Now to your question! To be honest, not that wouldn't be...but I haven't done a model with open spans that required Coverite or the like in quite some time. I do however use it on models where the control surfaces often were cloth and not metal. In these instances, I have just used primer to fill the weave and have had no problem. Of course extra coats of paint, be it primer or otherwise does add unnecessary weight. Sometimes this can be a problem, but with the giant scale warbirds that I build it has never been a concern. If you use the nitrate dope, just test prior to applying to your model to make certain that it is compatible with the Rustoleum.

In my opinion, primer has 2 functions. First is to help identify imperfections in your covering, be it fiberglass or an open span covering material such as the Super Coverite. This holds true more for "hard skinned" models. When I glass a model, I use .75 oz. cloth and Z-Poxy or West Systems depending on customer preference. I do not want to add any more weight than absolutely necessary when I glass. Sometimes, after the resin has cured, there may be spots of open weave. This does not mean that the cloth has not bonded to the sheeting, it just means that most of the resin had been squeegy'd out. In areas such as this, the primer should be used to fill the open weave. Many people will float another coat of resin, this in my opinion just adds weight and does not add strength to the model.

The second purpose of primer is to show high or low spots that may require a bit sanding or filler...okay, these "spots" should have been taken care of before glassing, but sometimes a few get missed, as they do not show as well as there is little contrast on the naked balsa. A couple of light coats of primer add more contrast and depth so slight imperfections show more easily.

As for the metal leading edges, I would use Aero Foil which is sold by Aero Accessories There are other metal covering materials such as Flite Metal from Scale Aero , but I have found that the Aero Foil is slightly thinner and easier to work around curves and compound curves, it is lighter, and best of all...less expensive!

Regarding panel lines, I have always used ChartPac tape that was used in drafting and the like. However, my supply is running out and I have yet to find a new source. Auto Cad and other such programs have made the old drafting table and many supplies more or less obsolete. Pin striping tape is also another idea, and can be found at hobby shops and auto paint shops. This is applied before the primer, and then the primer is shot. I usually do up to 4 light coats of primer to build up the lines so that final sanding will not flatten them. Before the primer dries, I pull up the tapes. If the primer is left to dry before removing the tape, it cause problems such as the tape breaking, the edges also can pull up paint ruining your line, etc. Also with this method, you need to be careful not to let too much primer build up on the edges of the tape. If this happens, you will need to knock them down with fine sandpaper.

Rivets are another story. On a hard skin model I use a soldring gun with a brass tube of appropriate diamter to "burn in" the rivets. However, on an open weave, I would definitely use the carpenters glue method, which I have described in other inquiries.
Happy modeling,

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Question 79: "Dear rob Building a Pica p51 1/5 scale being my first war bird have decided to monokote the air frame to make the enevadebel repairs easy. Seams sacrilegious but this is a practice plane. My question is years ago there was a company called dry set who made panel lines, rivets, and duz fasteners, in a rub on sheet. Where could i find another person who does the same to add detail to the monokote finish, Thanks William "

Rob: "Hi William, Geez, you got me on this one? Since you say that this will only be a practice airplane, I couldn' tsee justifying the expense to detail it much. Dry transfer decals aren't cheap? If I were looking to buy dry transfers I would go to ProMark, you can check out their stuff at: They do outstanding work for sure. But, plan to spend some serious $$.

Another option that I have seen used, but have never done myself is do your panel lines with a permanent marker like a fine point Sharpie. This would also be the least expensive way.

Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance on this one.
Take care, Rob"

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Question 80: "Hi ROB. I am glassing my TF .60 size Spit. This will be my first attempt at glassing.I am wondering about how to cover the control surfaces, from what I understand you do not glass them. What are the most comon materials used on these open areas when the rest of the plane is being glassed and then painted , other than sheeting with wood. Thanks, Pete"

Rob: "Hi Pete, You understand correctly! If it was cloth on the 1:1 bird, than it should be cloth on the model too! As for covering the control surfaces, on a Spit, they were cloth, so any of the iron-on cloth products would be good, Solartex works very well. To find out a bit on Solartex, look on Page 2 Question 25, my friend Fred Menna made a guest appearance and helped me with a question.

Glassing isn't all that hard at all, my first glassed project came out much better than my first Mono-Kote job! One of the best tutorials for glassing that I've found is from Art's Hobby, here is a link:

I hope this has helped a bit. Don't be afraid to's not hard, just a tad messier! Don't forget to send us some pics when she's completed! Take care, Rob"

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Question 81: "Hi Rob, Great tips you post up. I saw a question you answered on the RCWarbirds site about the crispness of invasion stripes. My own research suggests that all the proper “invasion stripes” (ie those applied to existing aircraft just prior to D-Day) were painted on by all hands available on each unit between 12-36 hrs prior to D-Day operations starting. There were strict guidelines and issued for each aircraft type and these were observed to varying degree’s of accuracy from unit to unit. Almost all were applied by brush (I haven’t found any which were sprayed for the Op) and some were measured and masked with tape, others were literally slapped on. From what I understand, the closer to Zero hour, the less care was taken, understandably. As scale modelling guidance suggests, accurate references of the real aircraft must be used when modelling. Also, some units interpreted the guidelines incorrectly, hence a few photos here and there showing aircraft painted up with non-standard stripes! Kind Regards, Jamie"

Rob: "Hi Jamie, This is exactly what I've been telling folks for years...nice to see someone else knows the facts. I have yet to see someone do a P-51 or P-47 with hastily applied invasion stripes...but, unless I do it myself, I doubt I'll see anything of the sort any time soon.
Take care and thanks for the letter,

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Question 82: "Hi Rob I just purchased a top flite giant scale p51 and I am wondering what pilot to use? Any recommendations would be appreciated Best Wishes, Wolfgang"

Rob: "Hi Guy's, Happy New Year! The TF Giant Scale P-51 is 1:5 scale. So depending how much you want to detail the cockpit, that will determine what type of pilot figure/bust you need. If you want to go with a full cockpit, then a full body 1:5 scale pilot. IF you don't want to do the full cockpit, youcan do a partial or as some folks do, just a dash and head and shoulders kind of pilot.

Personally, I like to do full cockpits, and my pilots of choice are from "Pete's Pilot's" in Great Britain ( ). By the way, Pete Richardson is an outstanding guy to do business with, no worries with this one.

Also, " Ace's of Iron " are real nice too.
( )

Best of luch with the project, Rob"

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Question 83: "Hi Rob, I’m building a P-51 just now and intend to glass the model. I build a Top Flite P-47 (.60 size) a couple of years ago and got a decent finish using good old dope and tissue. The finish has suffered somewhat with use and glow fuel and frankly it’s an eyesore now, so I want to refinish the model in fibreglass as practice for the P-51. Now I’ve read the How-To posted earlier and think I have a good handle on it, and I’ve also put your technique of degreasing with talc to good use. Trial and Error isn’t really my style – I prefer to do my homework and get the job done right first time if I can. My question is this: I’m fairly happy with the technique for glassing large expanses of balsa, but what is the best way to tackle tricky areas such as wing fillets and fuselage-to-tailplane or fin fillets etc? Eg glass the fillet first then the large area as in iron on films and dope/tissue or should I glass the wings, fuselage etc then patch the fillets, nooks and crannies later? Your advice would be most welcome! Kind Regards, Jamie"

Rob: "Hi Jamie, If I understand correctly, you want to glass your P-47 as practice for your new P-51 project. Great idea to practice new techniques, but I don't think that glassing over a dope/tissue covered model is going to work? To glass, you need a solid base/surface, usually balsa sheeting. I have never tried to glass over a tissue covered I can't really say if it will work or not, but I think not. However, if the tissue is still tight, sealed and painted, it may work. I fear that there would be sagging and the like?

On to your question. No need to worry, I think that you're getting a bit ahead of yourself here. When I build, I glass the entire airplane before I even worry about the fillets. In order to make your wing fillets, etc., you have to be able to seat your wing to the fuse...then create the fillets. If the airframe and wing are already glassed, you simply need to make the will cure hard and smooth, and then sanded to meet the final contours. There is no need to glass the fillets. If for whatever reason you still wish to glass the fillets, you can just run a strip of glass over the fillet and feather it into the fuse. But, like I said, it's just extra, unnecessary work in my opinion. I hope this answers your question. Take care, Rob"

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Question 84: "Rob, I am still referring back to the answer you gave me below about paint chips. Now I am trying to find out which paints were used on American aircraft, specifically the P40 in AVG use. Do you have any links to paint chips for U.S. military colors of WWII? Thanks, Forest"

Rob: "Hi Forest, I appologize for the delay in getting back to you. I just had surgery on the 15th and am just now getting back to the pc and catching up a bit. I've been thinking about your question, and I haven't found anything really good to send you to. However, my friend Chuck Graves, owner of Warbird Colors out in Oregon has done heaps and heaps of research to get his product to the top of the is great stuff, I'm going to be using it on my PCM Bf-109 G6! If you shoot him an email, I'm sure that he will be able to help you out, or point you in the correct direction. You can reach Chuck at and tell him I sent you! By the way, go to the home page, and click on the stars and bars...there's your baby...a beautiful P-40 with the sharks mouth! Regards, Rob"

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Question 85: "Hello Rob, I have been getting back in the hobby after a 15 year absence. Boy have things changed! No one is building anymore…..well accept for me…now. I have started things off with a ¼ scale Fokker D-VII using the Model Airplane News plan. I am getting close to finishing the construction of the Airframe, and will be getting ready to cover in the not to distant future. I plan on using coverite and the lozenge pattern covering available from Arizona Model Aircraft. I have a friend that has suggested putting down a coat or two Balsarite before attaching the covering, but that’s about as far As I know. I plane on using a ST2500 engine, as suggested in the plans. Any suggestion on finishing materials…paint etc. that I should use and A step process that I can follow. Your help is greatly appreciated. Regards, Walt "

Rob: "Hi Walt, Nice project! I love those WWI birds, but ya know, I haven't modeled one in about 25 years! The lozenge covering material from Arizona Model Aircraft looks great! I couldn't imagine trying to reproduce that by hand...mucho work indeed! Your friend gave good advice, Balsarite will seal the wood, which will make a better seal for the covering and any paints that you may use. Unfortunately, I don't know what is compatible with the lozenge material, but I would take an uneducated guess and say that it is most likely compatible with most paints used in the hobby...however, I would contact Arizona Model Aircraft and see what they recommend. You could also post a question on RCU or RSCB . The only other advice I can give is to do compatibility tests prior to putting anything on your model. Sorry I can't be of more help on this one. Best of luck with you project, and send us some pics when she's completed! Regards, Rob Bailey"

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Question 86: "Rob How to apply fiberglass to ABS. I have looked through your answers re;glassing, but they pertain to applying to wood. I want to apply a 1" wide strip of 3/4 oz glass as reinforcement where my ABS cowl attaches to the fuselage. How to do it, and what resin? to use.
Thanks in advance. Laurence"

Rob: "Hi Laurence, Good question! Actually, I don't do anything different at all. I use Z-Poxy resin and have never had a problem. I have also used West Systems epoxy with excellent results. If you have any doubts, just take a scrap peice of ABS and do a test, if it doesn't disintegrate you have it made in the shade. Take care, Rob"

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Question 87: " Rob, I plan to use latex on my Stearman (army version). Got a lot of help regarding this by looking through your answers. But couldn't pick up on what sheen is appropriate; flat? satin? You have been a great help to me, thank you. Laurence"

Rob: "Hi Laurence, I think it's just a matter of personal preference. I have used both flat and satin, but I prefer flat for my own models. I have seen many done in satin that look outstanding as I said, just personal preference. I haven't found any difference in how they wear, or hold up over time, so there shouldn't be any concern in that area. If you use flat and are not satisfied with the level of sheen, you could always bump it up with a clear coat...likewise, if you use satin, you could always bring down the sheen with a scotch brite pad or some steel wool. I hope this helps? Take care, Rob"

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Question 88: "Rob, I have a Top Flite 84" P-51 and I was wondering if I can paint latex over the factory monokote without any major problems. I know I should fiberglass it but I am really concerned about the quality of glass work I can do. I also have time issues or I would consider stripping and glassing it. Thanks, Curt "

Rob: "Hi Curt, I appologize for the late response to your question, I have been in the hospital a couple of times and just got out again today. As for your question, I have never tried to use latex over monocoat. However, my personal opinion is that I don't think that it would be a good choice. I think the latex would have a tendancy to peel over monocoat...even if it was roughed up a bit with sandpaper or steel wool first. Latex needs something to bite onto.
Stripping the monocoat and glassing would be a rather labor intensive undertaking, as you would have to sheet all of the open areas with balsa prior to glassing. I believe your best bet would be to find a paint that will adhere to the monocoat...this will also depend upon your engine...for glow engines Rustoleum works well for up to about 25% nitro. For gas engines, Krylon works good. Take care, Rob"

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Question 89: "Hi Rob: What's the best procedure for refinishing a painted fiberglass fuselage and sheeted/covered wing ARF? I want to revamp the existing paint scheme on my CMP P-47. Is it feasible ? thanks, Chris"

Rob: "Hi Chris, The best way is to carefully sand down the existing finish. Use a sandpaper that is not too coarse, I would start with a 220 and work to a 400 grit paper. Remember to let the paper do the work, don't use too much elbow grease! More care will need to be taken on the sheeted wing, you don't want to sand through the glass and into the balsa. Also, you don't have to remove all traces of the existing scheme. Just enough to dull it up is really all that is necessary, then depending on what paints you will be using you may or may not want to apply a primer. If the new paint has good covering qualities, a primer would, in my opinion, be a waste of time. As long as there are no "bare spots", areas where you sanded a bit too much. You can get by with just shooting the new colors and have excellent results.

If by chance you do get a little carried away with the sanding...hey, it will have go over those areas with some light cloth and resin...and then more sanding...carefully though!

I hope this is a help to you. You're project should be a peice of cake really, just go easy on the sanding. Take care, Rob"

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Question 90: "hi rob my name is steve stuttard and i live in the uk ive been trying to find these paints you call latex but here the only ones i can find are all acrylic ! .. now they may be the same stuff that you have over the pond any ideas?????
i want to use these on my ironbay corsair ,,,,,thanks for your timeSTEVE STUTTARD"

Rob: "Hi Steve, Hmmm...I don't know what they call latex across the pond? But I've attached a couple of links that may help you figure it out.'latex%20paint'

What is Latex Paint?
Latex paint is a suspension of finely divided synthetic resins in water. Commonly called ,water-based" paint, it includes such resins as acrylics, vinyls, and epoxies, among others. Latex paint contains four basic components:
Resins, which form a film or coating on the surface; Solvents, which keep the resins liquefied until the paint is applied; Pigments, which provide the color; and Additives, which are used as driers, thickeners or anti-foam agents. Latex paint is easy to apply and can be cleaned with soap and water. Latex paint is also less detrimental to the environment than oil-based paint, which contains more hazardous ingredients.

I hope that this is at least a bit of help. Latex is super easy to use and clean up and is much less costly than automotive paints and the like. Take care, Rob"

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Question 91: "I have turned the corner on My Ziroli Corsair, and was wondering since I have never painted a Warbird, How do you apply the latex house paint? Im under the impression you would spray it on? Also while I have you, any tips on mounting the canopy, I was half thinking of leaving it open about 1" or so. Sorry, This is my first Rodeo! Isaac"

Rob: "Hi Isaac, Sorry for the long response time...things have been very hectic here of late. You are correct, I spray on the latex house paint. I use an HVLP gun, which has creates much less overspray, hence a much neater working environment. I find it much easier to control the gun settings...most likely this is just a personal preference, but it seems to work better for me. As for canopy mounting, there are a few good glues available for this, but I have found they are not always available in some geographic regions? So, with this in mind, always test what you are planning to use for compatability...and don't try to use Ca glues on canopies! I think the last brand that I bought was called R-7? I would check for you, but my entire shop is in storge at the moment as I am in the process of a move. Why don't you try to do a retracable canopy? It's not all that difficult...Dave Platt details how to do this in one of his excellent videos. Also, there have been threads on that cover various methods of this. Best of luck, Rob"

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Question 92: " I have turned the corner on My Ziroli Corsair, and was wondering since I have never painted a Warbird, How do you apply the latex house paint? Im under the impression you would spray it on? Also while I have you, any tips on mounting the canopy, I was half thinking of leaving it open about 1" or so. Sorry, This is my first Rodeo! Isaac"

Rob: "Hi Isaac, I apologize for the long delay in responding to your letter. I have had some major health and family issue's to deal with that have kept me away from hobby related stuff for quite some time. As for using latex house paint on your Corsair, I think it is a great choice. It does have it's pro's and con's like any type of finish, but for overall ease of use, clean up, etc. I think it can't be beat. You are correct in assuming that spraying is the best method of application. However, I have seen a few that were painted using a small 2" or 3" roller and looked very nice. Not everyone has, or can afford to just go out and buy a compressor and spray gun straight off. I have also seen some large models that were painted completely using a small hobby type airbrush setup such as a Badger or Aztec and they came out looking great too!

As for mounting your canopy, I would suggest writing to Jeff Quesenberry for some hints with this one...he is the building guru on the site! I have used Zap products "Zap a dap a goo" for attaching canopies on many models and have yet to have one come off in flight or otherwise!

Best of luck, and sorry again for the delay in responding. Happy Holidays! Rob Bailey"

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Question 93: "Have enjoyed your site, but need just a little clarification I am building a corsair,plan to paint with Latex. I am covering it with Coverite cloth. What is you suggestion for the best type of primer. Dale Hurd"

Rob: "Hi Dale, I appologize for the long delay in responding to your letter. I have had some major health and family issue's to deal with that have kept me away from hobby related stuff for quite some time.

As for primer for your Corsair, I generally use "EVERCOAT" sandable automotive lacquer primer. I personally like the Light Gray...some folks like dark gray better...I reckon it just depends on which helps your eye to pick up the surface deviations for filling/sanding, etc.

Again, sorry for the delay in responding. I hope that you and yours have a Fantastic Holiday Season!!! Rob Bailey

PS. Don't forget to send us some pics of your Corsair!"

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Notice: Questions or statements regarding product quality and/or usage are solely the opinion of the writer and not necessarily the opinion or recommendation of or owner/webmaster. By asking a question you are giving or owner/webmaster the right to post your question and name on this page. Not all questions are answered or posted. All questions and answers are copyright


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