Question 49: "Jack I am trying to find out were the CG should be on the 1/5 TF P-47. If you have any info about this I would appreciate it. Thanks, Curtis "

Jack: "Hello Curtis, The recommended balance point for the Top Flite P-47 works very well and will give you a good flying aircraft. Top Flite uses a little different set-up for balance on this plane and the CG is calculated at the location of the number five ribs on the wing. The CG is 5 1/4" back from the leading edge of the wing measured at the number five rib location not at the side of the fuselage or the center of the wing. The model is balanced inverted with no fuel in the tank and if it is equipped with retracts the landing gear should be in the up/retracted position. (Wheels in the wheel wells). The Top Flite balancing fixture works very well here and I think that is why they chose to balance the aircraft with a dimension measured from the location of the 5th rib on each wing. Don't over look lateral balance either. Get both balances right and you will have a really nice flying model. I've always found that the Top Flite CG is accurate for their kits and have always started at that location and few times have ever had to move it. I would think that the maximum variation from the recommended CG would be less than 1/2" from the recommended balance point. I hope this helps. Good luck with your new Jug!!! Jack Devine"

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Question 50: "Hi, Jack. Greetings from the great state of Washington. I have 2 questions-1) did you ever teach Automotive Technology at a school called Renton Technical College? just checking because I took a class from a Jack Devine in the mid-90's. 2) How much of a runway is required for 1/5 or larger warbirds if someone was to build one on their property? Thanks for your time. Karl."

Jack: "Hi Carl, You are talking to the same guy you had in class. I'm still teaching at Renton and I just started my nineteenth year. Your name sure sounds familiar but I'm much better with faces. A runway for the 1/5th scale planes would need to be about 300 to 400 feet long to make things comfortable. Most of the 1/5th scale planes will takeoff in less than 150 feet but you need some space to land until your flying abilities are good enough to really stick a landing. I envy you if you have enough property to build your own flying site. That would be a real treat. Jack Devine"

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Question 51: "Hey Jack, I'm a 14 year old and I am looking for a second plane. I emailed you before about what a good starter warbird would be. I'm taking your advice and buying the Top Flite P-39. I just have one question about it. From what it sounds like, having flaps make flying a lot easier a slow speeds. But I have limited money (I do have a summer job though) and I don't know if I should go a head and buy a six channel radio for flaps and possibly retracts. Should I do that. If so, should I spend the money on retracts for the plane as well? Thanks for your time. -- Aaron M."

Jack: "Hi Aaron, Nice to hear from you again. As far as the six channel radio goes I think you should pick one of those up because that is the foundation of your RC capabilities and a decent six channel radio is cheaper today than they have ever been before. I don't think it is necessary to go with all of the computer toys on the radio but they too are getting cheaper and are much more user friendly when it comes to programming. You can use a good transmitter on several planes and the computer radios give you the possibility of multiple model memories which makes things easy when you change from one plane to another, Offerings from all of the manufactures in the six channel category should fit your needs and I think that all of the radios are more than up to the task at hand. Some careful shopping here could save you some big dollars.

The flaps are extremely effective in flying warbirds at slow speeds approaching a landing. They add additional stability and stretch the stall envelope considerably. Full flaps are also great big brakes so you need to manage the throttle stick accordingly and that means adding a bit of power to maintain your approach airspeed. You can slow a model too quickly if you are not careful but you will notice the model is much more stable at slow speeds when the flaps are down. Flying the model all the way to touchdown is very important and I think this will be a change from your trainer aircraft experience.

The retracts really add to scale realism but they come at a pretty good expense. I'd recommend the radio and the flaps before the retracts. Tri gear is expensive and if you do decide to go with retracts I'd highly recommend the pneumatic/air retracts over the mechanical ones especially with the limited space in the nose of the P-39. Don't overlook Spring Air retracts. They are the strongest .60size gear out there and you can fit them with oleo struts down the road if you want to add more scale look to your airplane. My second choice would be Robart.

You are facing the same decisions that most of us older guys face to and that is getting the most benefit out of our hard earned hobby dollars. Shop around and check out all the buy/sell web sites as you can often get some great deals there. Use Pay Pal and it will help to keep you from getting any bad deals. Good luck Aaron and make sure we get some pictures as you get your new Warbird ready to fly. Take care Jack Devine"

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Question 52: "Hi Jack, I flew my Byron P-51 with the reduction drive in some really hot and humid weather this weekend. The first time I did this with this plane......She flew terrible.........It looked tail heavy and just wasn't biting!!!! Do the weather conditions come into play here in this situation. The power is marginal (scale) to begin with but the weather is the only thing different that I can figure out.....a little insight here?? Thanks, Steve"

Jack: "Hello Steve, I have flown the Byron P-51 with the Quadra 42 and the reduction unit for many years and the plane definitely flies better on the cooler cloudy days when the air is dense. I have flown it on days in the mid 90s as well and it flies ok but noticeably different, Did you tach the prop to see what it is turning on a cool day compared to the hot day. There is possible a carb tuning issue going on and you are getting the motor a bit to warm. I like to keep the high speed needle as rich as possible where it maintains good RPM without heating up to badly. I have found that a good synthetic two stroke oil also helps here. Dragging the tail as you say may also indicate a balance shift and I would make sure I rechecked the CG. A tail heavy Mustang is a Mustang that won't fly. Give those to checks a shot and see if anything comes up. I use a little battery powered infrared heat gun to monitor the cylinder head temperature on all of my gas powered big birds and you would be amazed at how much heat difference there is with 1/8th of a turn on the high speed needle valve. You gotta keep this baby flying Steve cause there ain't any others out there like it and there's nothing cooler than a nice low show pass with her rolled over just enough to see that beautiful wing and that big four blade prop circle. I hope this helps. Keep them flying!!!! Jack Devine"

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Question 53: "Jack, Have you built or flown the NWHT P-51? Specifically the B model? Can you tell us how they fly and what powerplant to use? Thanks Chris"

Jack: "Hi Chris, Thanks for writing. I have built all of the NWHT fighters and that includes the B Model Mustang.
I did mine with the Malcolm Canopy which is an option and powered it with a G-62. With the G-62 you have to cut a hole in the side of the cowl to clear the carb but other than that it all fits inside the cowl. I built the tail feathers with the scale counterbalances and added the wing fillet. I used Robart 622-5 retracts on the mains and the stock non retracting tail wheel that comes with the kit on the tail wheel. It would not be difficult to add a tail wheel retract if you wanted one. The wing comes already cut for flaps and they work very well and add a lot of stability on a landing approach. The G-62 is over kill but when you want to go fast it is more than up to the task. The plane will easily fly on a G-45 or a Quadra or Mustang 50. The 3250 Super Tiger or the Moki 2.10 would work great if you wanted to use a glow motor.

The plane tracks very well and flies very predictably. I have a Byron Mustang and a Pica Mustang as well and the NWHT model is the best flying of the three of them. The NWHT kit line is a different type of build than a regular stick and former type model but they are not difficult to build. The airframe can be pretty much assembled in a couple of days. The more scale detail you choose to add will add additional time to the completion of the model but the advertised 25 hours is fairly accurate for the basic kit.

NWHT is no longer in business but I now own all of the equipment that was used to kit the NWHT kit line. I have opened a new business with all of this equipment, ( Jack Devine Models) and I will be marketing all of the old NWHT kit line plus a few more kits that are in the design phase. I would be happy to talk with you and answer any other questions you might have. I hope to turn my new company into a Quality manufacturer of radio control aircraft kits that provides excellent service to all of it's customers. I hope to get the opportunity to talk with you personally. Jack Devine"

Jack Devine Models
Phone: (425) 488-2606
Email: jdevine97@comcast.net
Please note our new email address as of 7/1/03

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Question 54: "Hi Jack, I am a RC beginner, and just received a Spitfire (for .90 - 4T motor) model that´s my preferred airplane (since I was a kid I built little plastic models of this plane), but don´t worry, I will not start to fly with this Spitfire model, I brought it for very future flies. I am starting with a easy electric RTF Sky Vector and a Javelin .40. Well, my question is, It is the Spitfire a good Flier or not? What´s the basic flying characteristics of this airplane? Have you got some tricks and recommendations for this specific airplane? Thank you, Regards, Cassio"

Jack: "Hello Cassio, It sounds like you are well on your way to having enough flying experience to take on a nice Warbird project. Your choice in the Spitfire is a good one and the Spitfire is an excellent airplane in the air. It's long tail moment really lends well to a smooth and in the groove type fighter. The Spitfire can be a handful on the ground and is very unforgiving if you are not paying attention to the plane at all times. Power management for takeoff is critical to becoming a good Spitfire pilot and you must avoid rapid application of the throttle. The main landing gear on the Spitfire are very narrow and you must manage your entire takeoff run with right rudder application to counteract the torque influence of the prop. Learning the right rudder technique is a must if you are going to master Warbirds. Rudder is also coupled with aileron and elevator input to turn this model and learning to find that balance of those three inputs will make you a good warbird driver.

Overall in the air the Spitfire will fly with the best of them but be careful of low and slow flight as it can stall violently and it usually damages the model pretty badly. Just be careful at takeoff and landing times and you should be fine. Fly the Spitfire on as calm a day as possible until you get the feel of how it flies and with a little stick time with the Spit I think you will really enjoy the airplane. Good Luck Cassio and let us know how it goes! Jack Devine"

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Question 55: "Hello Jack. I am a 24 year old model airplane builder from Norway. I love WWII aircraft and therefor a huge fan of Rcwarbirds.com. It is a VERY good site and has answered many of my questions and is also a very good inspiration for me.
Q: Split flaps, do they produce lift and drag, or just drag? If they only produce drag, are they then necessary during take off ? Dosen't`t that also mean steeper landings and less throttle? Can you please tell a little bit about the difference between split-flaps and conventional flaps? Thanks, Christer."

Jack: "Hello Christer, It's always great to hear from modelers from overseas. The Internet has really made it easy for all of us to communicate with each other. Your question regarding split flaps is a good one. Typically split flaps produce lift and drag and are effective in increasing low speed stability and very effective in slowing a model down. Flaps can be a two edge sword if you are not critically aware of the braking ability because they can easily cause a stall if you are not paying attention to airspeed. Once you lower flaps you will have to compensate for the drag with increased throttle application but it will make you a better pilot learning to deal with that. Split flaps allow the normal dimension of the wing to remain intact when the flaps are lowered because they only move the bottom skin panel and the top wing skin dimension does not change so you do not change the initial shape of the wing. Conventional flaps change the wing area because of their design and reduce the size of the wing but they too are very effective. As far as one being better than the other I don't think it really matters that much on a model. You need flaps on a Warbird and the design of the wing usually decided which type of flap the plane would use. Most model warbirds have enough power to takeoff successfully without the use of flaps but they will aid in takeoff to if they are used correctly. Less flap deflection if needed for takeoff and about 45 degrees will work well for landing. I hope this helps! Jack Devine"

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Question 56: "Mr. Jack, I have been reading several of the questions reguarding the characteristics of many of the Warbirds. However, the Bearcat has been mentioned very little. I am very interested in building it as my first scale warbird. Are the landing and take off characteristics similar to the other warbirds. I have heard really good things about the Bearcat. Matt"

Jack: "Hello Matt, Next to the Corsair the Bearcat is one of my favorite airplanes. It has super clean lines and a huge wing with big flight control surfaces and with a good power plant on the nose this airplane can really perform. It has very effective flaps that make landing it very easy and if there is anything negative the only thing that I would mention is you need to learn to use the rudder to fly this plane well because it will take a left turn on takeoff if you don't manage the throttle and input large amounts of right rudder on takeoff. The people that I have see have problems with Bearcats were just what I described above. In the air this plane is an 11 on the one to ten scale. Fun, Fast, and really nice looking on the ground and in the air. Tough to beat that combination.

Learning to use the rudder is going to be key to successfully mastering a Warbird. I preach this all the time but it's the truth. Too many RC modelers learn to fly without it and then complain about the way the more advanced planes fly when they don't use the rudder. Take off and landings require coordinated rudder input constantly so start practicing using it in all of you flight situations. You will be amazed at how clean your turns become and how much easier it is to nail those spot landings because you are learning to correctly steer the plane. I have nothing but good things to say about the Bearcat. I think it is a really great Warbird and makes an
excellent model. Keep us posted Matt and good luck. Jack Devine"

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Question 57: "Hi, my name is Michael, I'm 19 years old and have been flying RC airplanes for 3 years. I love all WWII warbirds and would like to build one, but there is so many to pick from. I do like the looks of the top-flite kits, my favorites are the F4U Corsair, Spitfire MKIX and the P-47D Thunderbolt. How would you rank these planes for flying habits. The plane that I'm presently flying is the Sig Somethin' Extra. Do you think I will be able to handle a wairbird? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your time, Michael"

Jack: "Hi Michael, The best flying model in the Top Flight line up hands down is the P-47. It has an excellent wing and it allows a fairly new warbird guy to transition into warbirds with a plane that is not only very nice looking but easily controlable. It has great ground handeling characteristics and the average pilot will not have any problems getting it into the air. Make sure your CG is on the money before you even think of getting it airborne and you will have great success with this model. Learn to use the Rudder to help you coordinate takeoff runs and turns and build and use the flaps. They really tame this airplane at landing speeds and they will make your retracts last much longer. I fully endorse your choice of the Top Flight P-47. Jack Devine"

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Question 58: "Hi, my name is Joe, I'm 14. I just received the new Hangar 9 .60 AT6 for my graduation present. This is my second plane after my high wing trainer. I've decided to put an OS .91 FX on it. Any advice on this plane's flight characteristics. Is that engine a good choice for that specific aircraft? Thanks, I think what your doing here on this website is truly great. Thanks again."

Jack: "Hi Joe, Congratulations on your graduation and it sounds like you received very nice gift for your efforts.
I don't have any experience with the Hanger 9 kit but I have seen it and it does look like a nice airplane. I'm sure the OS .91 will be up to the task of hauling this plane around the sky. It's a good motor and has great power. I have built and flown two AT6 planes one the Top Flite gold addition and the other a Ziroli.
The planes flew similarly to one another and handled about the same on the ground. The AT6 has very narrow landing gear and they can be a handful on the ground and like I always preach you really have to use the rudder to successfully master this airplane. In the air they are very responsive and track very well. I don't think you will find any surprises there. Takepff and landing will be a little different but if you go into this prepared and expecting the handling issues to pop up you should be ready to deal with them. Taxi the plane around on the ground once you aver it airworthy. Get a feel for how it turns. Try to make the first flight on a calm wind day so you don't have that to deal with too.

Taxi the plane out and set it up right in the middle of the runway. Advance your throttle slowly and let the plane build up a good amount of speed on the main gear before you let it lift off. Stay off the ailerons and correct your direction with the rudder. It will swing left without a good bit of right rudder and it can ground loop very easily so just be ready for that and apply enough right rudder to keep it straight down the runway. The tail will lift early in the takeoff run and that eliminates the tail wheel steering so you will want to use the ailerons but use rudder input instead. It will fly when you have sufficient airspeed and remember that if you yank this airplane off the runway before it has built up sufficient airspeed you are going to have problems. This is true with all warbirds and you need to learn to fly them correctly right now. I don't know how familiar you are with a tail dragger as you said this is your second airplane. Most trainers have tricycle gear with nose wheel steering but with the AT6 you don't have that. This forces the rudder input and the rudder isn't going to stall the wing like a high amount of aileron input at low airspeed can. I'm harping on this rudder input Joe because this is going to make you really enjoy your new AT6 and keep it around for a good long time.

Landing is the other big issue. Both of my AT6s had flaps and they really help because they allow you to really slow the aircraft down as well as adding a good amount of low speed stability. I don't know if your plane has flaps but if it does use them. If not try to bring your model in and touchdown with the tail low. The AT6 has a tendency to bounce if you don't have the landing attitude correct and the bounces get progressively worse as you try to deal with them and you usually end up with bent landing gear and often a broken vertical stab because the plane will flip over on its back if the bounces get really violent. Keep the tail low and bleed off as much airspeed as possible once you are over the runway and let it touch down gently but do not force the tail down with a big burst of up on the elevator stick. If you try to force the tail down it will most likely jump right back into the air.

Some of this will sound discouraging Joe and I don't mean it to be that at all. I just want to relate to you that this plane is going to be a lot different than you trainer was. Think about the flight before you attempt it and walk through the routine you need for takeoff and landing many times before you fly it. Knowing what to expect and more importantly knowing what to do about it is the key to being successful with any warbird. Concentrate on doing it the right way and you will get many hours of enjoyment out of your new airplane. You need the Rudder!!!!!!!!!!!

If you have not already read the first flight article in the Technique section on RCWarbirds.com take a minute and read that article. It works and it will help you prepare to fly your new AT6. Good luck Joe and let us know how it goes. We look forward to adding you to the ranks of new Warbird Drivers here on RCWarbirds.com. Jack Devine"

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Question 59: " am just finishing up my first Warbird and I need some help in regards to flying it. I have been flying for about 12 years and I usually fly a great planes p-51 and some other sport type planes. I just finished a Top Flite FW 190 D-9. I glassed the whole thing and airbrushed it. I installed spring air retracts with lite flite struts. I have attache a picture of it for you to see. My question is will the engine I have in it fly it well. I put in a OS 91four stroke, which I thought would be plenty of power, however when I weight it last night it is coming in at 10 lbs on a household digital scale. I used the very scientific method of weighing myself and then picking up the plane and weighing myself again. I am concerned that this engine will not have enough power to fly this plane well. I have been looking at gas power and two stroke power but I am unsure how to proceed. I would really appreciate your advise."

Jack: "Hey Don, You did a great job on the FW 190. I don't think the OS 91 will have any problem flying it at the weight you listed. I have seen these models fly well at 12 pounds with .90 two strokes in them and the OS four strokers have good torque so they will turn a pretty good size prop. Wit the big spinner that the FW 190 uses I'd think you could use a 15 X 8 prop and get good results with it. The plane will be very responsive and will fly much like a pattern plane because of the long tail moment. The Dora was a really fast sleek airplane and was a good match for all of the Allied Aircraft it flew against and I thing the model will show itself in that same light and be a great airplane to fly. Don't wrestle it into the air but rather let it run on the main gear and build up a good bit of airspeed and it will lift off on it's own. Get some altitude before you turn and just feel out the plane. I don't think you will find any surprises. Good Luck Don, Jack Devine"

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Question 60: "Hello Jack, Several months back I asked you about the flight characteristics for my Byron Hellcat, which I had yet to fly at that point. Well, I finally got around to it this past week while on vacation. Three days of flying and it was fantastic! Exceptionally stable flying warbird. Some of my sport craft are not nearly as predictable. Flew very fast at 30+ pounds and a G-62. Also slowed down very nicely for beautiful landings each time. Flaps were very helpful and kept my Hellcat steady as a rock throughout the landing procedure. Thanks for your pointers and keep up the good work. Mark. "

Jack: "Hi Mark, Congratulations on getting your Hellcat into the air and having great success with it. I don't think I have ever seen or heard a Pilot say he didn't have a real soft spot for this airplane and those that have taken the time to build one have found a very rewarding airplane. Knowing what to anticipate is key in successfully flying any Warbird. I will say that the Hellcat platform is one of the best out there. It has great ailerons and with a little rudder to keep the turns clean it flies like it's on rails and makes it's pilot really shine. The only bad thing I can think of is the addictive process we go through once we get a Warbird that really flies well. This hobby may kill me someday but I dare you to try and pry the smile off of my face when that time comes. Thanks again Mark for sharing your experience with the Hellcat. You gotta love it when a flight plan comes together. I wish you many seasons of flying fun with your new pride and joy!!!! Jack Devine"

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Question 61: "Hello Jack, I am a Brit living in the Gulf (Dubai)and have just purchased and shipped a S/hand Byron P51 with the Mustang 50 and reduction drive from a guy in California.. I am not an experienced warbird flyer but fly a big Sukhoi with an OS
120 regularly. I am anxious to get the Warbird thing going over here and chose to buy the Mustang,as not only is it my favorite aircraft but even more-so,due to this one having the 4 blade reduction gear and the mustang 50 which from what I hear was the best combination.
I like to fly at scale speeds and for me this was the nicest looking scale model of the P51. Temperatures here are in the mid 40s at present so will probably wait for cooler air for the big day.I have noted your comments,just now, on the Prop blades and can imagine in very high ambient temps, this problem will be exacerbated. Thing is, I don't want to damage this aircraft on the first day out and as we fly from compacted sand strips am a little nervous of the final approach and the landing turning into an expensive disaster. This is an almost vintage aircraft and I want to see it fly for quite a few more hours yet. What are the things to watch out for in the handling characteristics of this aircraft with this big 4 blade swinging at low revs. How should I structure my approach, what degree of flap works best and what throttle setting gives the best approach angle in winds around 4-5 knots on the nose.. Any more flying info you can give me and also contact nos for spares for landing gear, (fitted with Air retracts but not sure of the manufacturer) they look original.
As I am detailing and repairing the 'Gunfighter' paint job, a contact for the decal set would be appreciated also. I believe Byron are no longer in business. I am hoping the purchase of this beautiful airplane stirs up interest in the establishment of a warbird following here,where most of the time the weather is perfect and where there there is already a huge number of people enjoying RC flying, both in the expat and local communities. We have excellent hobby shops where almost everything is available. Thanks for helping to make this website the most interesting place to visit for RC enthusiasts, keep it up! Roger, "

Jack: "Hello Roger, I have owned a Byron P-51 for almost 13 years now and it originally had the Quadra 42 for power. I flew the plane regularly with the Quadra in the nose and it flew very scale like although it lacked any high speed performance. You had to be careful with energy consuming maneuvers like loops or Cuban eights and a slight dive to produce some additional airspeed made them possible but you needed some practice to make them look good. Keep your Mustang at a safe altitude while you learn and make sure your aileron linkage is very solid or a high speed flutter can easily develop. I never liked the aileron linkage on this plane and in my opinion you would have a much more reliable set up with an individual servo outboard in each wing with short, strong and direct linkage to the aileron. I have made this modification to mine and it is a much better flying model now and I no longer worry about that dreaded surface flutter.

I converted my Mustang to the Mustang 50 for power and was disappointed with the results. Byron really promoted this conversion when it was first developed because a common complaint with this airplane equipped with the four blade reduction drive was it's lack of power. The Mustang 50 definitely turned that big beautiful prop faster but it actually lost thrust with the increased RPM. The blades just further flattened out. I have used several different sets of blades and the same problem was evident with all of them. Even with these problems it was still a blast to fly the plane and it has logged over 250 flights since it as built. The look and sound of that big prop is nothing short of spectacular and you will have the entire field to fly on whenever you fly it. Be prepared for a million questions and an assault of cameras when you get to the field because you will treat everyone to a really wonderful experience watching this plane fly.

It is an easy plane to get into the air. Add your power slowly and consistently and the tail will come up immediately. You will absolutely need a good bit of right rudder input to keep the takeoff run centered on the runway. Let it gain a good bit of ground speed and gently add a touch of up elevator and it will lift off pretty as a picture. Do not yank it off the ground. That will have tragic results. Climb out slowly and don't attempt to turn until you have some airspeed. Your plane should have the sequencing landing gear doors and I always retracted the gear as soon as the plane was safely airborne and the gear cycle will take about six or seven seconds to complete and I never retract the landing gear in a turn and I like to get them into the wheel wells before I have reached maximum airspeed. Ground test the retract system extensively and once you get everything adjusted it will work flawlessly and the plane looks really nice in the air all cleaned up for flight. Make sure you spend some time here because the gear needs to be perfect to protect that prop. They are very reliable and trouble free as long as you maintain them. The same holds true with the reduction drive. High maintenance even more so in the sand but very reliable if you take good care of it.

Iron Bay Models, (www.ironbaymodels.com) bought all of the old Byron line and is slowly reintroducing the plane lineup. They will have all of the landing gear spares and though the Mustang has not been re-released yet it is scheduled to reappear. They should also have the complete Gunfighter scheme decal set available too. Check out their website or give them a call and you should be able to find the parts you are looking for. Get an extra set of drive belts if they have them and if not email me again and I'll give you a Gates Belt part number and tell you where you can find them.

Landing the P-51 is easy as long as you use the flaps. I really preach the flap usage because they are so effective. The plane will slow down very quickly when you drop the flaps and you will have to manage you final decent with the throttle and remember the response with the reduction drive is a little bit slower than with a direct drive prop. I use 45 to 50 degrees of flap for landing and keep the approach angle fairly steep at about thirty degrees. On final fly with the rudder and the throttle. Use minimal elevator and as little aileron as possible. The plane will be rock steady unless you are dealing with a cross wind and even with that the plane will side slip nicely when you need to deal with the wind. Control the rate of decent with the throttle. Adding throttle will decrease the decent and
reducing the throttle will increase it. I'm not talking big changes in throttle positions here but active use of the throttle stick will really
make your decent to touchdown look good. Once you are over the threshold of the runway let it settle onto ground effect and just back the throttle down and let the main gear gently touch down. DO NOT FORCE THE TAIL DOWN with the elevator or you will be right back in the air and at a very unstable airspeed. Let the speed bleed off and keep it straight with the rudder. You have to use the rudder on this airplane if you are ever going to master it. The landing speeds will be very low once you can visually recognize a safe approach speed and if for any reason you are going to abort the landing and go around add power slowly and consistently and do not try and turn. Fly straight out and simply reset up for another attempt. Once you are familiar with the plane you will nail your landings and make it all look pretty easy but like with every new model you need to learn the plane.

Last there is some hope for some better prop blades. There is a guy in Germany that is tooling up to make a replacement blade for the reduction unit out of carbon fiber. He is a body engineer for an F-1 racing team and is very familiar with the carbon fiber technology. He also has a Byron P-51. I have been in regular contact with him and once he gets his molds up and running I will post his information all over RCWarbirds.com. They will be a bit pricey but they will bring a huge increase in performance to this airplane. Iron Bay didn't show any interest in developing a new blade for this system and the original technology which was cutting edge when it was introduced in the early 1970's but really behind the times of modern prop technology.

I think that will answer most of your questions. Sorry for this being so long but the Byron Mustang has a very special place in my heart and I will never let mine go. I'll keep it flying for as long as I can do this and enjoy every minute of time I spend with this model in the air. Good luck with yours and make sure you send us some pictures for the website. Paul Grubich the host/owner of this site was a pilot on the Byron airshow team and he has had some stick time on the Byron Mustang too. They used to put on an RC airshow that to my knowledge has never been equaled. It was nothing short of spectacular. Again good luck with your new Gunfighter. Jack Devine "

Note from your host: Yup, I flew the Byron Mustang in Striking Back and fired six Estase rockets off that plane in a mock war. Firing all six almost stopped the plane in mid air! I used a Q51 with no drive because these planes took allot of abuse. I remember the landings were the hardest part. We landed during smoke, flame and other assorted noisy things. Once on the ground my Mustang had a tendency to nose over and I had to use elevator to keep it level. One of the greatest warbird models to ever fly! Paul Grubich

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Question 62: "Hi Jack, I have used this website alot and must say you and the others really have done a great job on answering all of the questions. I plan to put a Super Tigre 90 in my TF P-39 and I was wondering whether or not I could use a scale-like 3-bladed prop for it. If so what dimensions should it be and where can I get it? Thanks a bunch for your time and effort -- Aaron"

Jack: "Hi Aaron, Thanks for the kind words. All of us on the team here at RC Warbirds enjoy having the chance to help fellow modelers and it just goes a long way in helping our hobby get better. The Top Flite P-39 should fly very well on a Super Tiger .90 and an 11" 6 to 8 pitch 3blade prop should work just fine. Master Airscrew and Graupner both make props in that size and they should be available;able at your local hobby shop. Dubro makes a three blade spinner that will probably work to. I have flown a Top Flight Corsair with the same power and this size three blade prop and it flew great. It had more speed with a two blade prop but the plane still flew very well with both of them. Good luck Aaron! Let us know how she flies! Jack Devine"

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Question 63: "Hello Jack I am having a little bit of a problem with my VQ P40 (VQ is a french model componey). I am doing OK when I take off, all the norm pulls to the left lots of right rudder to keep her stright. But when she gets in to the air she is just horrible to fly she just snap into everything and tip stalls at the the most orqued of times. I have a thunder tiger pro 61 engine she has a wing span of 61.8 in and a weight of 4.3kg approx I need some advice. I am not enjoying flying her at all the c of g seems to be ok have checked it lots of times she is just so unstable in the air. I need some help many thanks Ian"

Jack: "Hello Ian, Nice to hear from you. It sounds like you have a real handful with that P-40. I don't have any experience with the P-40 from that company but let's just talk airplanes and see if we can come up with a solution. I have found over the years that a plane that just doesn't fly well has one of two problems and you should be able to carefully inspect your Kittyhawk and find what is wrong. Balance is a possibility but you stated you checked that several times but even so there are planes that will not fly well at
the suggested CG. If the plane is very elevator sensitive then I would question the CG. If it is just flat all over the sky then I'd suspect a flight surface that is out of alignment or warped. ARFs are thrown together at a pretty brisk pace and I have seen several of them that were just crooked. Start with the tail feathers and measure the incidence of the Stab on both sides of the fuselage and check it in close to the fuselage and also out near the stab tip. It is straight?? It should be within less than 1/2 of a degree. Next prop the plane up on it's landing gear and block up the tail until the wing is level (Zero incidence) with the plane in this position go back and measure the stab incidence again and what do you have. Most fighters have the same incidence on the wing as they do on the tail. If your off here you have some work to do. I'd try shimming the wing before I tore into the tail section.

Next check the engine thrust. Most of the ARFs that I have seen have a little down and right thrust built into the motor mount and that will help most fighters in flight as well. You can usually correct engine thrust without rekitting the airplane. Carefully check the wing with the incidence meter at several locations moving out toward the wing tip. There should be a small negative incidence toward the wing tip that indicates that washout was built into the wing.

I think that if you carefully check all of the things that I have mentioned you will most likely find the problem. VQ has a pretty good reputation and I have seen their ARF Mustang, AT6 and the New P-38 all fly and they flew very well. I think a good going over will fix your airplane and let you relax a bit with it and have some fun. P-40s are typically a handful on the ground but I have found them to be a very nice stable airplane in the air. It's going to teach you how to use the rudder. I assure you of that.

I hope this helps Ian. This is exactly how I would approach this problem if it were my airplane. Something just isn't quite right and a good systematic check will sort it all out. Good luck and let us know what you find. Jack Devine"

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Question 64: "Hi Jack, I purchase a Yellow brand P-40 at Toledo this year which is now under construction - love the Yellow brand kit! I've heard some bad things about the landing characteristics of the P-40, so I purchased Great Planes "Real Flight" G2 to get familiar. Not sure how close the Real Flight is to the actual, but it does have a very distinct personality. I've tried it with and without flaps and just can't seem to nail the landing every time. What should be the procedure for landing the P-40? Getting a little worried at this point, thinking I should have bought a Corsair. Joe "

Jack: "Hi Joe, I'm with you on the Yellow Aircraft kits. They have always been very nice kits although I have not seen a Yellow P-40. There are many Yellow P-47s in the area that I fly in and with the exception of the aileron counterbalance problems some of them experience they fly very well. As for the P-40 I don't expect it will be much different from any of the other giant scale P-40s that are out there.

I consider flaps on a big warbird mandatory and I do not land without them. I think the key to the P-40 is managing the planes energy because as you drop the flaps the aircraft will very quickly start dropping airspeed and the stall point is in your face before you can think. With that in mind lets talk about a typical approach in a P-40. You have a good rudder on this plane as long as you maintain a decent airspeed and keep the air flowing across the tail feathers. As you proceed done the down wind leg drop you landing gear and drop half flaps. Most guys get the flaps half down on the down wind and then bring them all the way down one you turn final. Full flaps should be about 50 degrees.

Keep the decent into the landing field steep because you are going to increase your stored energy this way and then you manage the throttle to control the rate of decent. It takes a little practice like all flying does but it works. The long slow and low approaches with flaps can lead to problems quickly as you near the stall point and with a fighter you won't get much warning before you are in real trouble. Adding power quickly in that attitude will be the end of your airplane. You need to realize that flaps have two purposes and getting the maximum effect out of both lift and drag is the right way to use them. A little power will flatten out the decent and a reduction in power will make it steeper. Try practicing this technique on your simulator and I think you will find it's very effective. Your approach angle needs to be about 35 degrees with the nose slightly down. Once you know you will make the runway ease way back on the power and let the flaps finish their job slowing you down to touch down speed and just drop her in on the mains and stay off of the elevator once the wheels are in contact with the runway. There is a natural tendency to blip up elevator to plant the tail wheel and if you do that the plane will probably jump right back into the air and now you have a big problem because the over controlling that will follow will almost always damage the airplane or at least it's landing gear.

Let the flaps work for you and I think you will really start seeing that they are very effective and will help you land like a pro. I don't even consider landing a Warbird without flaps. You'll never see a real one land without them either. Run through this a few times and set it up on the simulator and give it a go. Your landings will be much more consistent, Good luck with your new P-40 Joe.
Jack Devine"

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Question 65: "Hi Jack I am hoping you could tell me the flight characteristics of the Top Flite P-40 Warhawk .
I`m just about finished one, and I`ve heard its a real hand full and if you have go dead stick , point the nose down and pray!
Is it really that bad ? Thanks Michael "

Jack: "The Top Flight P-40 is a little difficult to handle on the ground but in the air it is a great flying airplane. It needs to be sufficiently powered and if it is built with retracts, flaps and the other available scale components I'd consider a .90 size motor a minimum. They fly very well on a 1.20 four stroke as well.

Because of the narrow landing gear ground handling is tricky and throttle management and rudder input are very important for takeoff. Bring power up slowly and steadily and input enough right rudder to keep the takeoff roll straight. Whatever you do don't nail full throttle because the rudder will not be able to handle the torque induced left turn that will happen and if you jerk the airplane into the air it will stall. That is all scary stuff but it is all avoidable.

Once airborne you need to feel the plane out and realize when you start to near the stall point. In my experience the stall happens quickly and the plane will drop the left wing and begin to roll left. Right aileron accelerates the stall so you need to get the nose down and add power. You have to build airspeed to recover. Get up to a safe altitude and try reaching the stall so you recognize how the plane reacts. Many P-40s are lost when the pilot sets up to land and just gets too slow as they approach the base leg turn and then the turn to final and their airspeed is just to low. Use your flaps if you built them because they add a ton of stability and will help the plane slow down for a safe landing. Avoid the long low approaches. Keep the approach steep and let the flaps do their job. Flair a couple of feet off the runway and it will touch down lightly on the main gear. Keep the throttle at idle and let the tail come down on it's own. Do not force it down with the elevator. Back on the ground keep your taxi speed down and make your turns slowly. If you are consistent and follow these guidelines I think you will find the P-40 is a great airplane. Good luck with your Warhawk. Jack Devine"

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Question 66: "Hi JACK I just sent pictures of my zirolli corsair to your picture section, and the first flite will be taking place very soon if I can get my nerve up. I have been flying for several years and have a flite glass p-51 with 200+ flites on it . I have flown the 60 and 90 size warbirds for a long time , but I am still getting butterfles in my stomach at the thought of flying . I guess just give me your best advise for the first flite. The plane has a 93 inch wing span , flaps , retracts, and is powered by a 4.2 sachs i havent added any nose weight yet and it weighs about 28 lbs . It is going to weigh about 32 to 35 lbs. S I guees tell me what you think Thanks Tom"

Jack: "Hi Tom. You have a great looking Corsair!! You mentioned that you had been flying some of the smaller Warbirds and comparing the Ziroli Corsair to them is really not a good pairing. You will be in for a treat with the big bent wing bird and I think you will be amazed at just how easy your Corsair will fly. It's easier to fly because it's much easier to see and it responds without any hesitation or bumbyness in it's flight. They penetrate very well and go exactly where you tell them to and there just arn't any hidden quirks that you need to know about. Properly balanced it is a great airplane. I have had mine for about ten years and it's still one of my favorite planes. I have a Sachs 5.0 twin in mine on ignition and it can go like hell or throttle back and just let her cruise around at half throttle.

Takeoff is straight forward if you are not bealing with any cross wind to speak of. With that three blade prop it's going left as soon as you power it up and the secret is using enough right rudder to keep it straight and bringing the power up slowly. As soon as you advance the throttle stick it will start to roll and the tail will come up quickly. The rudder authority is low until you gain a little ground speed so let the plane run on it's mains and don't try to force it into the air with the elevator. Let it build a good head of steam and it will lift off all on it's own. Once you get airborne fly straight out and don't attempt a turn until you have 50 or 60 feet of altitude. Retract your gear and turn and start your down wing pass. Level the plane and see what you need for trim by momentarily releasing the sticks. Trim the plane to fly straight and level and then just enjoy your model. You always have the butterflies when a new model is taxiing out for it's first flight but I'd bet my bottom dollar you find all the jitters were a waste of time and energy and you have one fine flying new airplane.

Landing a big Corsair requires a coordinated routine that becomes automatic after a few flights. First off make up your mind right now that when you land you use the flaps. Head the plane down the back line of the pattern and slowly reduce the throttle to about half. Drop your landing gear and then drop the flaps to about 30 degrees. Make your downwind turn onto the base leg and as you start to turn final drop full flaps. Keep your approach fairly steep and control the decent with the throttle not the elevator and use the ailerons to keep the wings level. The speed will come down very quickly with full flaps and you will need to pay close attention to the stall and avoid it. Adding power will slow your decent into the runway and increase your airspeed, reducing power increases the sink rate and when it starts to drop make sure you add power enough to keep it flying. Once you enter ground effects reduce the throttle and let it settle in on the main gear. The tail will come down on it's own too so don't force it down with the elevator. If you have a missed approach or have to do a go-around bring up your power slowly so you don't induce a torque turn and fly straight out. Set up again and then start the whole thing over again

They are great airplanes and I don't believe you will have any trouble with it. It should be a great airplane and I'm sure you will find that it's very easy to fly. Good luck!! Jack Devine"

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Question 67: "Hi Jack, Love the warbirds site! I have been a warbirds enthusiast since my youth and have built many plastic models of them and a few r/c ones. I was involved in r/c flying from 1983 to 1992 and then quit out of frustration due to many events. My younger brother peaked my interest last fall and since I always wanted to build an r/c corsair I'm back in the r/c business. I built the corsair during the winter, and nicely detailed it. Even made the military Williams pilot head to turn with rudder and added flashing lites system to the gun bays on flaps switch control. It is powered by an o.s.46 fx which I've had nothing but problems with and hobbico mechanical retracts which bend far to easily. The retract system was our own design as the kit is not set up for this and I went with a setup that has the wheels retracting toward the wing tips - this works fine except that the wheels are a bit too far to the rear and the angle almost 90 degrees perpendicular to the wing. Does this fighter ever look good! I had my brother, who flies a great planes p-51 take it up and its first flite was almost its last as the controls were overly sensitive. Went to low rate and things went much better. My brother, although a proficient pilot is not a great warbird pilot as he takes off in about 15 feet and only the power of the 46 saved him I'm sure as his landings are meant for carriers! I always tease him about this! I'm amazed at how he can wallow in his mustang and not stall - no flaps. At any rate the corsair was found to behave well once trimmed and flybys and stafing passes are well, u know the feeling! I also previously owned and flew a superb mustang .40 from the old house of balsa kit. Again, landings by bro resulted in bent gear on every landing.

My first attempt at the whistler resulted in a nose over on takeoff attempt probably because of the gear positioning which I cant change other than going fixed gear and my first landing attempt resulted in a minor tail over nose onto back as I came in maybe a bit too hot and just short of the mowed grass!! Subsequent takeoffs and landings were done by my brother and I would do the in-air stuff in order to regain my proficiency. Then, problems with the enging conking out in flight almost consistently and the resulting dead stick landings resulted in a broken rudder. I fixed her up and engine probs continued. It's a miracle this little corsair is still battle ready! Not wanting to destroy this nice airplane, I purchased an arf .46 sukhoi 31 from pheonix models for my getting my wings re-instated. This was a good plan. I had the engine sent back to manufacturer for repairs and then ran it in the sukhoi. Bettter reliability but not quite enough power. One windy day, my o.s. failed in flight again and I had to dead stick into a freshly ploughed field. Yup, lotsa damage. Repaired the damage, dumped the o.s. and installed a super tigre .61 ABC. Have gotten much better reliability and better power - can now make a landing approach with confidence that I can attempt a go-around!! I find landings have to be quite hot and if I flare too soon the model will climb a bit, than slow a bit and then just fall straight down! I fly off a small club field and can run out of runway quick!

With the corsair hanging proudly on my den ceiling for the time being and my wings re-instated, I wanted something I could fly against my brother's p-51. I purchased sportsman aviation's fw-190 and am flying it with a super tigre .40, same as what he has in his stang and runs flawlessly! I had come across your flight instruction prior to its first flite and this really helped me. With my body shaking and slightly confident and with all checked out, I taxied out and pointed the butcher bird into the wind. I slowly advanced throttle and added just a hint of right rudder as she tracked down the grass field nice and straight. The tail came up quite quickly and I added just a touch of up elevator to keep the nose up. After running about 200 feet and with plenty of speed I fed in a bit of up elevator for a beautiful takeoff. I gained altitude to about 100 feet , turned and set about to trim it out. I had to add quite a bit of down elevator and just a touch of rite aileron trim. I flew some basic circles then retracted the gear - what a nice touch!! This bird is a pure joy to fly and looks great in the air and on the ground. It tracks straight and flies where you point it. Now came landing time. I made my approach with a bit of power and settled in for a picture perfect scale touchdown on the mains and as the speed decreased the tail slowly settled to the ground. I was amazed and thrilled and have it all on video too. Dogfighting with the stang and the wulf is a blast but collisions a very real possibility as we've gotten close!!

I will end this here with a thank u for your valuable website and three questions.

Q1. The corsair tends to jump into the air very quickly and banks left sharply on take off. (probably because my brother is feeding in too much up elevator on the take off run and doesn't reach proper flying speed)? I haven't had experience taking this one up yet but I sure will next spring! ( with a super tigre this time)

Q2. Should I consider changing the retracts out to a .60. size set?

Q3. the fw always wants to climb in flight and I find that if I set the elevator so that the plane flies level I will have difficulty with nose-over on take off runs. Do I find a happy medium in trim settings? The incidence seems ok and the model is both cg and laterally balanced. Its kinda a pain to constantly feed in down during straight flite."

Jack: "Hello Lloyd, Great to hear from another Warbird Driver. You have obviously been bitten by the Warbird bug and you flight descriptions are pretty typical for a new pilot or a once seasoned pilot flying after a long vacation from RC. Your Little FW190 is a great little airplane but with the constant down trim requirement is seems to me you have a motor thrust problem. Try shimming the motor mount to give you a degree of right thrust and one of down thrust and see if the trim problem clears up. 40 size Warbirds typically need the motor to induce the right and down thrust to be able to trim them for level flight without a lot of trim adjustment from neutral flight surface positions. I'd bet the farm that that will fix your trim problems on the FW 190.

Now let's talk about the Corsair. The takeoff you describe your brother doing is text book disaster. Fighters don't takeoff like that and even with the high power we have on our models full power and yank the elevator is going to cost you that airplane. Corsairs are finesse fighters and once airborne and trimmed they will yank and bank with the best of them but you need coordinated rudder input in all of your turns and you need to duplicate the take off run you described for the FW190. Bring the power up slowly and let it run on the landing gear. Use enough right rudder to prevent the torque turn to the left and stay ahead of the rudder. Once it starts to come around hard to the left you won't have enough rudder to correct that problem and you yank the elevator. Stall, Stall Stall. This is a bad situation and the crappy thing about it is you created it. When the plane starts to drop that left wing it is in a deep stall and you nail right aileron to correct it and now you just stalled the right wing. You have no lift and a screaming motor that is rolling your airplane right into the ground. All bad stuff. Now let's talk about correcting that.

First let's make sure the landing gear will allow the plane to roll easily and with the gear problems you are describing I'd change to the heavier gear as soon as possible. I don't know what to think of a corsair that has non rotating retracts but if it works great. Next smooth throttle transition!!! The motor must come up steadily and allow the plane to get rolling without the sudden flair to wide open throttle. Tune the engine to make this happen. Spend the time to make it right. Typically I have solved the FX problems with new o-rings on the remote needle valve. Mine ran great after that and is still running great. Slow steady application of the throttle and enough right rudder should start the takeoff roll and put you in good shape. The tail will come up all on it's own when you have enough ground speed and stay off the elevator until you are sure you have entered the flight envelope and at the same time you are still pushing toward full power. With rudder authority increasing with ground speed you should be able to start reducing rudder input. Just a hint of up elevator and it should rotate. Keep the climb rate manageable and retract the gear and begin your first turn as you see the wheels going into the wells. Fly a few circuits and trim the plane to fly straight and level with your hands off of the sticks. Once it's trimmed for level flight then start to figure the plane out. Make left and right turns and start the turn with the aileron and then ease in the rudder to keep the tail flying high. I think you will be amazed at how much better your turns will get when you start coordinating the inputs. Far too many RC pilots learn to fly without the rudder and you can get away with that with most high wing models but you won't get away with it flying a Warbird. To make them groove you have to have coordinated flight surface inputs. It takes a little practice but once you get it you will become a much better pilot and you will become the teacher when your brother sees perfect takeoffs and landings because you learned to fly a Warbird correctly. If you build any more Warbirds try and equip them with flaps. They dramatically increase low speed stability and they slow the plane down to very manageable landing speeds. Approaches are steep with flaps and long low landing attempts should be avoided. Let the flaps do their job and manage the airspeed and the decent rate with the throttle not the elevator. It takes practice but once you get it your landings will improve a ton. Adding throttle flattens out the approach and reducing throttle increases it. Fly the plane to the chosen touchdown spot on the runway and come back to full idle and flair about a foot above the runway. It should touch down gently on the mains and let the tail come down and plant the tail wheel on it's own. Do not force the tail down.

It's all about understanding the technique and practicing it. It becomes natural and you don't even think about it after you get it down. R/c pilots and good RC pilots separate right here and you have to decide which group you want to stay with. Fly the rudder Lloyd! You won't regret it. Good luck!! Jack Devine"

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Question 68: "I don't see any reference to the Top Flite Sea Fury. I have both the Sea Fury and the Corsair. My landings with the Corsair had a lot to be desired until I got the Sea Fury. The Sea Fury flies great without the tip stall characteristics of the Corsair. I did have an experienced Warbird flier take it up for the first flight and he couldn't believe how nice it flew. Now the Corsair, though it still causes weak knees, is much easier to handle. My only complaint about the Sea Fury is it is heavy. Mine finished at 13 lbs with 20 oz. in the nose along with an OS .91. The Corsair came in at 10.5 with the same engine except for only 6 oz of lead. War birds make flying RC a rewarding challenge. Thanks for a great web site. Dave"

Jack: "Hello Dave, I have to agree with you that the Sea Fury is a great flying airplane. I have not built the Top Flight kit but I do have a 96" wingspan Sea Fury and it is one of the best flying airplanes I own. They like most British fighters have a great wing design and as far as being heavy the real one was a beast. I believe they grossed out at almost 14,000 pounds loaded for bear and they carried all of it with no problems. I know the Top Flight Model will handle 13 pounds no problem. I have found that the heavier warbirds (Within reason) are actually better flying airplanes than the real light ones. They hold the groove much better and penetrate the wind much better too. I have a 5 cu in Sachs twin on my Sea Fury and it flies with authority. Lots of power and very fast when you open it up but it will fly beautifully at half throttle too. The big split flaps make landings very easy. Great looks, outstanding performance, tough to beat that combination.

The Corsair on the other hand is a different beast altogether. The Corsair is a pilots airplane from the beginning but it has a high learning curve and is not an airplane that you feel instantly comfortable with. You learn the Corsair or you will loose it. It is very unforgiving but you fly by the rules and it will make your piloting skills absolutely shine. It is without a doubt my favorite airplane but I assure you it will always keep you honest when you are on the sticks. They do get easier to fly with more time in the air but when you start getting too comfortable that plane will bite you. Fly it like a Warbird should be flown and leave the 3d stuff to the planes that were designed for that and you will get many enjoyable seasons out of your F4U. You have two great planes and I hope the warbird bug has bitten you like it has the rest of us. There are lots of good times and great friends when you are involved in this part of the hobby. Good luck with your Warbirds Dave. Jack Devine"

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Question 69: "Hi Jack, I am currently building a Dave Platt Fw-190A-4, all is going smootly, but i would like to know how this model flies, some people say it flies really nice, i believe them, but could you give me a idea of what to expect on the maden flight ? this will be still in quite some time, but it will come. thanks, Werner, (South Africa)"

Jack: "Hello Werner, I don't have any experience with the Dave Platt FW 190A4 model. I have flown two FW 190A models and found both of them were outstanding airplanes and really quite easy to fly. Dave Platt designes very accurate scale models and if you keep them light they usually fly well. The level of scale detail that is possible with this model could make it a marginal flyer but if you are careful with the weight it should be fine. I really enjoyed both of the planes I flew. The first one was a Bob Holman kit and the second was From the company I now own Jack Devine Models. The holeman kit had a fiberglass fuselage and foam wings and tail feathers and was powered with a G-45. The JDM model is an all foam construction model and was flown with a US 41 with a Quadra Carb on it and it flew really well. It had Robart retracts and flaps and was one of the easiest planes to land I have ever flown. I had one day of flying with it and managed to get four really good flights and then I sold it to a guy that would not take " it's not for sale" as an answer. I regret selling that plane to this day. It was a really nice flying plane and I intend to build another one. Keep the weight under control and your FW 190 should be a great airplane. Good Luck! Jack Devine"

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Question 70: "Jack Had a bad expierence with a new Midwest T-6. On its first flight the takeoff was fine. Flew around a few times adding several clicks of aileron. Pulled into a loop and at the top of the loop the aircraft snapped out to the left. Dropping a wing and into a spin straight down , Because of the height I was able to recover momentarily. I pulled a little up elevator and started a left turn at which time it spun straight in. Any idea as to cause and or what did I do wrong. Several fellow flyers felt I had to much elevator control. What do you think. John N Thanks"

Jack: "Hello John, The elevator authority would cause a stall if it were to high especially at the top of a big loop. I don't know what you have on your AT6 for power but if it is a typical Texan it looses airspeed pretty quickly when you are climbing at high rates with a lot of up elevator. Is the CG at it's recommended point? Double check that too because if you are tail heavy at all it compounds the problem. I have found the AT^ to be a very nice airplane to fly if it is balanced and powered correctly and very capable of doing all of the warbird aerobatics with no problem. They are a handful on the ground and difficult to land with any wind but they fly very well. Go back and recheck your control throws and use the dual rates to step them down to 60% of what you have on full rate. I usually do this with all of my new planes and get them flying with good stability before I start really pushing the control throws. I also try to keep stall recivery to a straight ahead flight direction until I know I have enough airspeed to support good flight. Any turning input can deepen the stall and do it very quickly and with low airspeed like at the top of a loop. This is a critical time effected heavily by overcontroling the model. Warbird guys learn that over time and it's usually a very valuable lesson. I don't know weather your AT6 is repairable after what happened and I hope it is because once you get this plane sorted out you will really enjoy it. The one bad habit most AT6s have is they are very easy to get a bad bouncing effect going right after touchdown. The bounces get progressively worse if you don't react quickly and the bounces are really hard on landing gear and the rudder. The plane usually ends up upside down with the rudder absorbing the flip. Ouch!!!! Flaps can really help eliminate the bounce because they will really reduce your landing speed. If you have them use them. I hope this helps and I wish you the best of luck with getting the Texan back into the air. Jack Devine "

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Question 71: "Hi Jack, I've been flying for about 2 years (altough i flew and built kits as a kid 25 years ago. I mastered the trainere, have built a Goldberg Tiget 60 and seem to be flying well in that. I've recently purchased a Modeltech P-47 ARF jsut to get my feet wet into a taildragger, first warbird. Of course I realize the ARF P-47 is really a funscale bird. My question is: Is it realistic to think that I'm any where close to even attempting to build and fly a alrge scale warbird such as ziroli plan kit or Ironbay kit. My building skills are pretty good but I have no sense if jumping to my "real warbird dream" is reasobale at this stage of my flying career or unrealistic and should give it a few for low ing tail draggers etc. I realize you cnt assess my flying skills but is it a "definite NO" for someone with 2 years low wing experiece or is it a "ahy, you should try it". Is there any large place kit/ARF that is best as a first "real warbird" ? Thanks, Wayne"

Jack: "Hello Wayne, From what you are saying here I think you could handle a big Warbird with the experience you have. I assure you the bigger planes are much easier to fly than the smaller ones are and they are much more stable. I'd recommed you start out with a sport scale model that has a good wing and fly the hell out of it and then take the real leap into a real scale plane. I own a small model airplane company called Jack Devine Models and I have a pretty good selection of Warbird offerings and these planes are some of the best flying planes out there. They are sport scale but they can be taken to a point where they would be competetive models. Where you stop is up to you. I have a pretty extensive website at www.jackdevinemodels.com and you can check them out there.
Having some building experience will help when it comes to building whatever you choose to model. Having flown the Goldburg Tiger will also be a big plus as it is a very responsive airplane. Getting use to using flaps and flying with the rudder are two things you will need to master if you are going to have any real success with Warbirds. It still amazes me how many people fly their planes with just elevator and ailerons. Rudder makes everything work together and once you master the operation of the rudder your flights will become much crisper and your plane will respond. Practice the effects of the rudder while you build your big warbird and your transition will be seamless.
Let me know if I can answer any questions about any of my kits. Thanks for writing Wayne and good luck becoming a Warbird Driver!!!!! Jack Devine"

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Question 72: "You mentioned that you had constructed a 72" Corsair by NWMT(Jack Devine Models). Do you think that a Zenoah 23 would fit and perform well as a powerplant? Any other suggestions and advise would be appreciated. Truman"

Jack: "Hello Truman. A G-23 would have plenty of power for the JDM 72" span Corsair. This plane ready for flight will weigh about 13 pounds with fiberglass, retracts, flaps and scale tail feather counterbalances installed. It is a fairly easy to build airplane and it flies very well. All of the Jack Devine Models are built using identical techniques. The foam fuselage, wing and tail group are sheeted with 1/16th balsa and 3/16ths leading and trailing edges. The fuselage is also sheeted on the inside and it is incredibly strong. There is pictures of several of them on my web page and if you have any other questions just let me know. The website is at www.jackdevinemodels.com Jack Devine"

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