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Some questions and answers will be posted in this section.

Page 3: Questions 49-72, click on links or browse page.
Q49 Twins sensitive to rudder only input ? Q61 Operating gear doors for VQ P-38 ?
Q50 Twin engine Beach Barron exhaust placement ? Q 62 Mixing engines on a four engine plane ?
Q51 Kill switch on twin ? Q63 Several fuel tanks in multi engine plane ?
Q52 P-38 rudder trim problem ? Q64 Ugly Stick make a good twin trainer ?
Q53 How many fuel tanks for multi engine planes ? Q65 Electric P-38 pulls to one side ?
Q54 Electric twin easier for beginner ? Q66 KMP P-38 engine size ?
Q55 Cowl baffles for the Yellow P-38 ? Q67 C-160 cargo door operation ?
Q56 Four engines, one fuel tank ? Q68 Twin engine synchronizer ?
Q57 Glow plug drivers for twins ? Q69 Dual axis gyro for twin ?
Q58 Balance point for VQ A-26 ? Q70 Yellow Aircraft P-38 Arf ?
Q59 Guns and cockpit for VQ P-38 ? Q71 G&P Sales P-38 info ?
Q60 Grumman Albatross for first twin ? Q 72 Kit bashing questions ?

Question 49: "George, I recently purchased a Ta-154 twin fighter about 70 inch wingspan... it is powered by 2 OS 52 four strokes.. I have two flights on it.. more than enough power half throttle takeoffs... I tried to use the rudder to see how it would turn with rudder... it just about snap rolled when I used the rudder... I was able to recover (had enough altitude) Have you ever run across this before? I was wondering if I reduce the rudder throw... but then would it be enough rudder if I have an engine out? The plane weighs in just under 9 lbs.. thanks Alan "

Twinman: " admit this is a new not having any sense I headed to the field to try it......yes, I listened to your comment.......I was very high. I always use as much rudder throw as possible for as you say engine out. I also always fly coordinated turns or always use the rudder. I went high and threw in as much rudder as possible without ailerons. Yup.......OH S_ _ _!!!.......Got it. Pant gasp.
Ok, if you do not always fly coordinated turns, which teaches delicate rudder control, try putting a control curve into the rudder. Make it less sensitive near neutral. (Pant gasp!!)
Good luck..( won't do that again..The crown thought it was a good stunt.....never let them know that last maneuver was a mistake!!!)

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Question 50: "Hi Mr. Twinman: I just built a Beechbaron 58 twin engine plane. I followed the plans exactly and when I built the nacelles for the engines I made the access on the outer side as shown. Now I am lost because the engines are made only one way with the exhaust. If I put the two engines in, One will be exhausting up above the wing, The other will be facing the exhaust down.This is a bottom wing plane made by "Marutaka". I know I should of thought about this sooner. This is my first twin engine plane. Can you help me"PLEASE" Thank You for your time, Tony"

Twinman: "Hi Tony, If you don't have the engines yet, go to Morris Hobbies. There is a direct link to them from this website. They sell the MVVS engines. These engines have a neat feature that allows the cylinder head to be rotated up to 360 degrees and so the exhaust goes out anywhere you like. You must break in the engines with the cylinder head rotated to the position you intend to operate for proper break in. Some of the old K&B also had this feature of a rotating cylinder. Beyond those ideas, it will get tougher. Look at Jtec mufflers at They have some single outlet side mount mufflers that are thin. Perhaps you could mount these mufflers to the engines and run the outlet down across the engine and exit out the bottom. The only worry is that perhaps one engine will have more back pressure than the other. Good Luck, Twinman"

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Question 51: "Twinman, Currently building a Ziroli B-25 with Fuji 32A's. Should engines have both an external and internal kill switch and is down and right thrust the same as it would be for a single engine plane? Thanks...Con Schaefer"

Twinman: "Hi Con, If I am not mistaken, all gas engines are required by the AMA to have an external electric kill switch for safety and to maintain your insurance. I always adjust my engines to die via throttle shut down and then kill the switch after it dies. I am not much for putting my hands near a spinning propellor, unless absolutely necessary. There are many ideas for proper thrust angles for the twin engine models, I would try to follow the instructions on this point or email Ziroli directly at . Good Luck, Twinman "

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Question 52: "Hello Mr. Twinman, My name is Phil Camp. You might remember me in the rcuniverse thread "Marutaka P38" I described the maiden flight with much excitement. Well, I've since put four more flights on her and she still gets my blood boiling, but I think I need your advice. My question to you is; During the maiden flight, I had to use full right trim to get level flight on her. I've subsequently balanced (rebalanced) her laterally and added a small amount of weight in the right wing. Better? not really, I still have almost all right trim in her. A friend suggested (during a flight) putting a few clicks of right rudder, That seemed to work okay, but on landing just before touchdown I "think" I tipped stalled her to the right. I say "think" due to the fact of a fairly nasty crosswind that day (no damage). Now, my twin experience tells me the rudder trim is not a good idea, what do you think?. The plans call for no offset and no down thrust on the engines, but these old Royal kits are so hit and miss, what I mean is, there were no "tabs" or any real line up reference points to make absolutely sure the booms are perfectly straight, or aligned. I measured, re measured and then measured again. I would like to get your input on what you think the problem might be. I do not have counter rotating engines, do you think that's it? Maybe my engine alignment is off? More weight in the right side? She's balanced as she sits now.
I hope I gave you enough info to help me make the proper modifications, If not, please ask away! My thanks in advance for both your time and input. The P38 sure is a head turner at the field, But I don't like the Idea of having to use that much trim. Wadda think?
Phil "

Twinman: "Hi Phil, Got the P-38 bug......I like it!!!! When you say full right trim, I am going to assume that we are talking about ailerons. Does the plane turn more to the left as the power is increased? If you look at this plane, the torque of the engines will try to turn the plane to the left....some. If the plane tries to turn more with more power, after you have set the trim for level flight, you could have something out of alignment. Increased air flow would increase the problem. Don't worry, I took almost two hours, two people, and two incidence meters to set up my aerotech P-38. This plane is difficult to get all straight. One idea would be to add a small amount of down thrust on the left engine to assist holding the wing down. One indicator of torque being the problem, would be a sudden right turn if you were to go from one half throttle to full quickly......WARNING....Not too quick!!! Don't flame an engine out!!!!
Don't worry about the tip stall, it is fairly common on the P-38, particularly if you do not have flaps. It is very highly wing loaded. Keep the landing speed up for safety. Please always, always do the vertical test for ten seconds at full throttle EVER time you fly this monster. ( Sure feels good to see it in the air, and a little scary, but you are the envy of all at the field.......NO PRESSURE THERE!!!!!)
Good luck Twinman"

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Question 53: "I loved your article on twins. I am building a pby catalina 8 ft wing span, with 2 .60's 2 stroke, or 2 .70's four stroke. What do I do about a fuel tank, can I locate one large tank in the body- if this won't work then maybe use an electric fuel pump? Mounting 2 tanks in the wings of any size is a problem! Also do I need A 1/4 scale servo for the rudder if I mount them within a foot from the rudder. any suggestions! Dave"

Twinman: "Hi Dave, The number one thing with multi engine planes is reliability!!!!!!! And a center mounted tank for two engines is not it!!! Ok, now having said that, let's see what we can do. Problems. Not enough muffler pressure to push that far, and,,, if one engine starts, it pressurizes the fuel tank and floods the other engine before you can start it. (Been there done that.) An electric fuel pump would flood the engines.

Plan A. I have been very happy with the regulating pump from Perry or Varseline ( SP?) products. You must drill and tap the rear crank case for a pressure tap to run the pump from crankcase pressure to pull the fuel. This must be done for each engine. The main tank is not pressurized with this system. Do not use the Perry pump that vibrates on two stroke engines. Not enough pulsing on a two stroke engines to work well. (Tried that too, don't do it) The vibrating pump is for four stroke engines, but does not have the positive pull that the regulating Perry pump has.Helicopters use a very small surge tank in series with the main tank to eliminate bubbles, I would suggest the same just behind the engines. There has to be room for a one ounce tank!!

Plan B. Cline regulating fuel system uses a pressure tap to pressurize the fuel tank from each engine and a regulator that senses vacuum from the engine opens to allow fuel flow. Warning, make sure the fuel tank is loosely mounted as there is quite a bit of fuel pressure in the tank and it expands a bit. I would also use clamps on the fuel lines. You do not need the surge tanks, mentioned before with this system. I personally have not used this system, but know others who have and are happy.

I am not sure that a 1/4 scale servo is necessary, but would not hurt, they are just slow. A good 80oz, or there about should work, as you are not planning on 3D aerobatics......Are You??? I saw the part about mounting the rudder servo near the tail.......not a good idea in a sea plane due to spray toward the tail, and if you plan on a water rudder, is more difficult to use the same servo with a push pull cable to the water rudder. I would consider a pull pull system to eliminate any slop in the control system. Good Luck, Twinman"

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Question 54: "Hay Twinman here is a question for you. I have a lot of experience with flying modelairplanes, from scale to full
aerobatic, electric and glow fuel, now I am looking for a new challenge. I want to begin with flying twins. I have read most of the information on your site and I was wondering wether it wouldn't be a lot easier to start with a small electric plane, without landing gear? This overcomes engine reliability problems, and it aren't the big bugs that get spilled when it does crash. I would like to know your opinion.Thanks Peter"

Twinman: "Hi Peter, You are correct that electric planes are coming. I will admit that I do not have any experience with them, but am seeing more and more each day. Per my electric buddies, the motors should be wired in series so that there can be no single engine out.
It would be excellent experience without the fear of engine out. It would also give you good experience with a heavier wing loaded plane verses the lighter wing loaded singles. Good Luck, Twinman"

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Question 55: "Ref question # 6, thanks will consider gyro but really lie the KISS principle. Next question do you know if the Yellow A/C needs cowl baffling to keep the engines cool? I am reuniting BME 44 set-up to run counter rotating (rotation inboard) Engines run fine on ground but not sure if the cooling with the small Yellow cowls. Have you heard of any problems with this manufactures kit? Thanks for the advice, will fly at the end of the summer. Kit will be on display at the 82nd Fighter Group reunion this September. Marking will be the Sad Sack P38. Phil "

Twinman: "Hi Phil, If you go look at the various pictures of the P-38's you will note that there was a movable duct under the engine cowl, which happens to coincide with the air outlet from the engine area. This duct, if you add it, will create a low pressure zone to pull the air out of the cowel areas. I still would consider to baffle the cowel to aid cooling. I added this duct across the opening on the bottom of the nacelles, and made it one inch tall......Ok so it is a little taller than standard, but I wanted it too cool. I fully understand the KISS idea, but please consider the time and $$$$$ involved in a P-38. Even gas engines can go out and the inverted flat spin is not something you want to experience. UH, is the part about the counterrotation engines a test?????? The props are supposed to rotate outward at the top. Only the prototype rotated inward at the top, unless we are talking about the 322 model for England which did not use counterrotating props or superchargers. Good Luck, Twinman"

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Question 56: "Dear rcwarbirds, I am presently building a c-130 from scratch. This is my first attempt at a 4-engine plane and I was wondering if you could give me any tips on routing the fuel lines. Can all 4 engines be routed in series or parallel or do they each have to have a direct line to the centrally located tank? Should it be a pressurized system or do you get adequate flow? Any assistance with such things would be greatly appreciated. Also do you know of a good truck arrangement for the main wheels as they are quite far apart and I want to operate them with one servo. I have made up a truck that I figure will work but I am concerned about how to get them down and locked from a central location. Thomas"

Twinman: "Hi Thomas, DO NOT EVEN CONSIDER TO USE ONE TANK FOR ALL THOSE ENGINES!!!! Argh!!!!!! You will never get constant fuel flow and so never have the absolute necessity of safe and consistent fuel flow, and so consistent operation. Reliability is the key to long life with multi engines!!!! I guess I should ask what engines we are talking about. If glow, read the above strongly. If gas, maybe...... I should explain. Gas engines have fuel pumps to feed the carburetors, glow do not. If you are determined to go with glow, consider Perry fuel pumps on each engine, the regulator type for two strokes and the Cline system for four strokes. Check with Cline for this application on four strokes. You must use separate fuel lines for each engine!! I am not in favor of a central tank!!! You are much better off, and MUCH safer, with separate tanks for each engine. As for the landing gear arrangement, I think I will defer that question to our landing gear expert. Good Luck, Twinman"

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Question 57: "Can you recommend some glow plug drivers for single and Twin engine planes? Best Regards, Hal"

Twinman: "Hi Hal, I am going to pass this one as far as a specific recommendation. Almost all commercial glow drivers are good....However,,,,

Questions to ask the manufacturers, for multi's.
1. Will it drive multiglow plugs simultaneously or independently?
2. Can you connect the plugs in series using 3 volts? The reason for this connection, verses parallel, is that in parallel as hydraulics, the amperage takes the path of least resistance, and one plug will always have less resistance, particularly as the two engines start. Therefore you have one plug hot and one "Not so Hot" with a parallel connection. Now nothing is free here, as if one plug goes out, both are out and with both plugs, hot, you are draining the battery while tuning the single engine, but reliability is the most important part.
3. How big should the battery be for two plugs?
4. I would not recommend using the old micro switch on the throttle linkage as many people do.
Been there, and found the arc of the switch causing radio glitches. If you must go this route, consider a capacitor across the terminals to "Kill" the spark.
Good Luck, Twinman "

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Question 58: "Hello Twinman I have the VQ A-26 and its almost finished. I don't have the manual for it. I did find your review and gained lots of info, Thanks! the only thing I can't find is the balance point. Would I be able to get that from you? I could take an educated guess but with a twin I want everything as right as possible. A concept I know your familiar with! Thanks for your time

Twinman: "Hi Fred, I did not have the old instructions for the VQ A-26, but a quick call to Morris Hobbies and I now have the page on interest. With the gear up, measure from the leading edge of the wing and go back 4.3 " or 110mm. Do not fly any warbird tail heavy. Is far more of a problem with heavy wing loaded planes. Please review my warnings as to engine reliability. ALLWAYS do the vertical engine test before each and every flight!!!! With helper, go to full power, and hold the plane straight up for ten seconds. ANY sag or engine change, DO NOT FLY!!! Fix the mixture problem first........sorry for the soap box talk. I learned the hard and expensive way on this!!! Good Luck and send pictures, Twinman"

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Question 59: "Hi, Twinman. I usually email you from my office, but I'm back home from Iraq now and have time to finish my Morris P-38. I would like to know where to find the guns and a cockpit this plane. Any ideas? Robert "

Twinman: "Hi Robert, Welcome back and we all are very gratefull for your sacrifices and that you are home safe and sound.......and able to work on the P-38!!!!! Guns, I am just going to use painted brass tubing. I do not know of a kit for such a small P-38 for the cockpit, here are cockpit builders, and maybe they could help. These are more of kits that you must do much finishing. They also have more scale guns.
Good Luck, and welcome back, Twinman"

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Question 60: "George would an 81 inch Grumman Albatross be a good first twin? Thanks, Brandon "

Twinman: "Hi Brandon, Now that is the $50.00 question!!!! While it sure looks like it would have low wing loading and a big rudder, all of which is good. One must ask the question......are you planning to take off and land from water??? If answer is no, and the cost is low, then go for it. If you are planning to build such a model, I would say no. Too much time and money in such a project to learn to fly twins on. Bash a cheap model first. You can save money and use the engines that you intend to use on the Albatross. If you plan to take off from water, and plan this as a trainer, I would have to say no. Twins are a handfull anyway you go. Tricycle twins are always better than tail draggers due to uneven spool up of the engines. Water, that has little to no resistance to unequal engine acceleration, would really be a handful. Could you mix the engines to the rudder? Absolutely, with a computer radio and I recommend it and use it myself for aerobatics, buy a seaplane for a trainer, personal opinion is go the cheap land route and learn the problems and challenges first. When you go a head and do this, send pictures!!!!!!!! Good Luck, Twinman"

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Question 61: "TwinMan, I have a VQ P38 and want to make the wheel doors functional. Where can I go to find out how to do operational wheel doors? Best Regards, Hal."

Twinman: "Hi Hal, Go to These are the hinges that Morris is supplying and can be purchased from local hobby store. Basically is spring open and uses a metal or rubber connection across the opening that the landing gear hits upon closing, to pull the doors closed. Twinman"

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Question 62: "Hello I like the help pages thank you very much. I have been flying r/c for the last 10 years and the last 3 I have been flying the best sounding aircraft of all ( twins ) a royal Cessna 310, a Islander (for 25's) and a B-25 ( just under 300 flights when I lost a wing tip( 81" w.s with o.s 25's). I have also picked up a heli for more practice with the controls ( it helps with the rudder big time ). What I'm wondering is I have a B-24 (90'ws by Jack Stafford) in my room in which I have to put in some engines, the
thing is I have 2 o.s 25 max's and 3 o.s 25 max fp's (all of them run great), can I put the max's with the max fp's if I put them, max's on the inside and max fp's on the outsides? Thanks Brad"

Twinman: "Hi Brad, Sure you can mix and match, as long as you have matched pairs and performance of the pairs. I would put each on a test stand and check the rpm performance of each engine. Then put the strongest engines on the inner engine positons, and the weaker on the outside. Reasoning for this is that if an outer engine fails in flight, you will have an easier time if the less powerful ones are farther out on the wing. Good luck, Twinman"

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Question 63: "I forgot to ask you one other thing, I'm building a De Havilland DH 88 Comet which has about a 70" w.s. I don't think De Havilland gave much though about us when they designed it for there is no room for fuel tanks in the nacelles. What I have thought of doing is using a header tank in the nacelle and having one or two tanks in the fuse, or using the header tank and a
saddle tank in the wing. I was wondering what you opinion is an what you might think would be better? Thanks again Brad"

Twinman: "Brad, I am always nervous about this arrangement due to assuring proper fuel flow and pressurization.Once again, reliability is main concern. No matter what system is used, make sure you use the largest fuel lines you can for less flow restriction. My thought for safety is to use Perry fuel pumps to make sure that the fuel has positive flow to the engines. This would allow the use of one main tank in the fuse and headers in the wings. The other suggestion is the Cline system for each engine. With this system,
the crank pressure is sent to the tank and each engine is fitted with a regulator that opens as the engine is started via the low pressure as the engine tries to draw fuel. The only concern I have with the cline system, and my people are very happy with it, is that the tanks are really pressurize a lot and get very hard. This only means that the tank mounting must be flexible and the lines should
have clamps on them. A pressurized fuel leak is not worth thinking about"

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Question 64: "I am planning to build a b-25 . While building i plan to make a twin trainer . If i use an ugly stick type ( there is a plane from the past) and set it up with twin tails and the dimensions of the b-25 would this be suitable as a twin trainer? Thank you Larry"

Twinman: "Hi Larry, I myself have converted a 60 size ugly stick into exactly what you are planning. Ok, if it is a sixty size, go with two sixties and 8" longer wings. Wing plates also help. I like the idea of the twin tails as it reduces the problems of control, as the rudder is not in the prop blast. If you want the feel of the heavier warbird........AFTER you are feeling safe with your trainer, increase the weight or remove the wing plates to increase wing loading. Good Luck, Twinman"

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Question 65: "Dear George, I have a hobby lobby electric p-38 that I put larger than recommended engines and batteries in. I have two problems #1, when I hand launch it at full throttle it pulls very hard to the left until it starts flying. #2, if I give it any more than 1/4 throttle it climbs really fast(to much). any suggestions? Mike L."

Twinman: "Hi Mike, The one thing you could try for the pull to one side is to reverse the motor on one side and use a pusher prop from Zinger. This was common on the twins of that time and reverse rotation was to control it.
The second is a Hobbico multipurpose gyro on the rudders.This would dampen the turn until the plane is flying to a more manageable level. As for the climbing at high power, assuming that all of the incidences are correct, I would put an equal amount of down thrust into the motors. What happens if you attempt to hover or go vertical. If you see the plane trying to loop, you need down thrust.
Let us know how it comes out and send can never have too much power!!! Good Luck, Twinman"

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Question 66: "Hello George, I am asking if anybody has showed up with the KMP P-38 in your neighborhood yet? I was wanting to get one ( actually I am waiting for mine) Have you seen any in person or flown one yet? I was thinking about 2 OS 61 SF engines with side mount slimline mufflers . That should be more than enough I think Thanks Greg near DFW"

Twinman: "HI Greg, No, have not seen the KMP anywhere in Houston. I believe that your choice of engines is good. Particularly if you even plan to consider three blade props. My Aerotech at 78" flew very well with ST 60's. Wing MFG at 72", OK so it was heavy, flew , but not fun with 45's. I still think you should consider gyros with the P-38......just in case. Let us know how your KMP is coming and what you think. Good Luck and send pictures, George"

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Question 67: "Hi, First I'd like to say very nice website, I am very impressed. My name is Kyle, I'm a Navy EA-6B Prowler pilot. I'm currently deployed onboard the USS Nimitz and am normally stationed at NAS Whidbey Island, WA. I've been flying RC planes for a little over 2 yrs, but have been interested in them for most of my life. I've got several projects on the horizon for when I return,
C-130(electric), AD-1 Skyraider and C-160 Transall. My question is for the C-160, I plan on putting in a cargo bay door and am looking for an easy way to actuate the door. Do you have any ideas on a simple way to do this? This kit is an ARF from Giant Scale Planes. com, my building experience in limited to ARF's and Park flyers. So simplicity is key for I plan on adding two on-board glow plug systems also. The model will have 2 Magnum XL 25 Glow motors. Any help on construction of the door and parts I'll
need(also where I can get them) will be extremely helpful. As for retracts I'm about to email your retracts expert about that. Thank you and keep up the good work. Kyle LTJG USNR VAQ-135 Black Ravens"

Twinman: "HI Kyle, Like your choice of a twin project. (But I am kind of biased that way!!) The cargo bay door is pretty good size. Hinges for the forward part would be of the piano hinge type. You would need some power and rotation to open it, so consider retract
servos, which rotate 180 degrees with good power. Now( the fun part) you will need a conveyer system to push out paratroopers,
and other "Cargo". (Maybe the paratroopers do not want or like the Cargo name.......sorry) If you go look at Hobbico and others, they make servos for sail boats that rotate 3 complete revolutions. They are used to control the sails as winches. Consider that for the conveyer system to "Eject" the cargo. Watch out for CG shift.......oh, probably knew that. Good Luck and send pictures.

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Question 68: "I've picked up an old Royal P-38 kit, and am probably about 90% done with it. Is there an electronic engine synchronizer available to control the throttle servos? I would think someone would have thought of this before me, but I don't know where to look. An engine synchronizer would have all the benefits in a model airplane that it does in multi-engine boats - reduction of the nasty beat frequency and any vibratory effects that result.
Plus it would make it sound REALLY cool. "

Twinman: "Hi Thomas, Number one, DO NOT USE ONE SERVO FOR THE ELEVATOR. It will flutter!!! Use one on each end. The only sync device is EMS/Jomar sells a twin synchro device: . It is not a true control of each engine. One is slave and one is master. There really is no reliable control as you are looking for. If you put each engine on a separate channel and mix together the setting of engine speed is much easier. This plane will really land fast and engine out is BAD. Make sure the word
RELIABLE is first and foremost in your mind. Do the vertical test EVERY flight. Would consider at least one, but two gyros for safety. Good Luck, Twinman"

Thomas, At further consideration, there is another way to sync the engines, if you have a computer radio. I use two channels for the engine control and mix together. It makes individual adjustment much easier. If you radio have exponential on the second channel, you can "Map" the two engines together. It really does work, but the engines must be properly adjusted before beginning. Good Luck,

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Question 69: "George, I'm building a VQ P38. I've read your comments regarding installing gyros. You installed a dual axis gyro I believe. Why is that better than a single axis just on the rudders? Best Regards, Hal "

Twinman: "HI Hal. I am not using a dual axis gyro. Sorry if I was not clear. I am using two gyros. The Hobbico multipurpose for the rudders, and the Hobbico Aero for the ailerons. The Aero allows two channels for the ailerons and is adjustable in the air.
This is, to me just good insurance. Good Luck,,,,,,,,,,don't let you fingers shake as much as mine did, but you will smile all week when you get it down. Twinman"

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Question 70: "I saw that Yellow aircraft had a p-38 arf. on their web page. I cant find any reviews on this plane, do you have any experience with this kit. THANKS Nathan"

Twinman: "Hi Nathan, I owned one. It is the white one in the P-38 section of this site. The plane is very detailed. Mine was not the arf, but I tend to think that it would be the same plan as the original. DO not put the large engines I did in this plane. I am crazy and it will rip off the wings. They seem to fly best with 45cc engines over the say G38's. Many people really like them. Now Robart also has the larger size arf also, but have not seen it. It is based upon the Zeroli. Do not do this if you do not have twin experience. P-38's are not a trainer. Good Luck, Twinman"

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Question 71: "Hello Twinman. I just discovered your site. I cannot get enough. Do you have any experience with the 88" G&P Sales P-38? Any comments would be appreciated. Also do you know of any plans for the Beechcraft T-42. The civilian model is the B-55 Baron. I have a full size, and would like to model it. Again, any help would be most welcome."

Twinman: "Hi Richard and Lisa, If you go to the G&P site, you can order the build video as the owner builds it. Do not plan on a professional video, but the guy is really an experienced builder. I bought and reviewed it.........One must be honest....was beyond my building abilities. On the Beech Craft. No idea as of now, but will keep looking. Hope this helps. Twinman"

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Question 72: "I am currently in the process of "kit bashing" and building my first twin. I will be using a wing kit from a Sig LT-40 (about 71" ws) and I will be making the fuselage from my own scratch design. The overall dimensions of the fuselage will be similar to the LT-40's, but slightly enlarged and it will look nothing like the LT-40. The most significant change in my design
will be the tail moment and the rudder surface area (per your advice). I am predicting the weight to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 9-10lbs. I plan on powering the model with two Evolution .46's with the 3 bladed props and spinners that come with the Evolution Trainer Power System from Horizon Hobbies. I will most likely use these same engines in a later project for an A-26 invader... the VQ arf, the Wing Mfg kit, or built from scratch using some plans I acquired off of E-bay. I'm pretty positive that the .46's will
power the VQ and the Wing Mfg kit, but do you think they would perform well in a 87" ws A-26? Also, I will be adding a few other "goodies" to the plane including a rotating turret, and either a working cargo hatch or bomb doors. Do you know of anywhere to look for some good designs for these extras? I have some ideas that I think will work well, but I'm always interested in seeing others before I go through the trouble of building mine and finding a much better or easier design. One last thing... should I mount my engines with outward thrust or keep them at 0(? If so, how much thrust angle? Many thanks for all of your advice & Happy Holidays!"

Twinman: "Hi Dan, Like the kit bash ideas. You may want to try the three blade props you are proposing, but this plane will be fun, so you may want to try 11x5 or my personal favorite 12x4 for more thrust. Check center lines to see if will fit. The ST 45's powered a VQ A-26 that I flew last weekend and loved it with three blade props. Completely aerobatic. A blast!!!!! Probably these engines would power a larger version, but keep weight light and consider the above props for more thrust. I always use 0 on the engines. The outward thrust, supposedly to counter engine out, has little to no value. Bomb bays are simple hinges on a double door hatch. Use control surface horns from servos. If any worry on travel, use springs from the servo to the doors. Rotating turrants......uh never done that, so suggest submit this part of the question to the building guru here at rcu. Good Luck, Twinman"

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