Question
97: "Howdy from mountain America here in Castle Rock , Colo..
How do I join or pay to advertise? I have a Robart P-38 that I am making
into an early model lightning. An "f" model to be exact. I
have the early model cowlings,they owe me the early model radiators
yet. I talked to Robart the other day, they will try and get me the
correct style radiators. My question or ad is this; I need an idea or
someone to help make an early style canopy. Mainly the windscreen as
these were round and not flat like later models. I have scratch built
my cockpit, detailed the inside of the gear doors, and really went to
town on my pilot. I'm a scale detail nut and am really having a ball
with this kit. Also, got a 1/5th P-51B coming. Can't wait for that either!
Any help would be awesome!! Thank you, I love the web site. Keep up
the good work. LINN"
Joe: "Linn
you might check out the Scale Aero details page http://scaleaero.com/newdetails.htm there's a lot of nifty stuff there and
might have info on doing the canopy. Also Strictly Scale is a good site
for tips and tricks http://strictlyscale.com/ As for any ideas from me what I would
do would be to make a mold or whatever of the windscreen and get some
clear acetate, heat it up, and pull it over
your mold and in that way you can easily make your own. There is a how
to article on making them by vacuum forming in the RC Universe archives http://www.rcuniverse.com/rcarchive/58/2002/11/2/74962 basically it will work the same for pulling your own but instead of
hooking it up to a vacuum machine you sandwich the acetate between two
sticks of wood on each side so you can hold onto it and pull it down
over your plug. a good book on making canopies and tons of other stuff
is "Radio Control Airplane How to's" it is
put out by Model airplane news I believe it is volume , it is the purple
and white book and only like 12 or 14 bucks lot of good info in there. Joe"
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Question 98: "Joe I am looking for a kit or plans for a 1/16 scale B-52. I know
some have been built in the UK but can't find any plans. I don't think
I am up to the challenge of scratch building this one. Craig"
Joe: "Hi Craig you might do a search on RCUniversehttp://www.rcuniverse.com I remember recently seeing a thread where a guy had just designed one
and was building it. I think it was in the jets forum but cant remember
for sure. Also I don't know what scale it was but if you can get a copy
of his plans you can resize them to suit your needs. Joe "
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Question 99: "Joe
I was interested to know if anyone has ever devised a Rocket Assisted
Take Off installation on large scale models. (IE. B-47) Craig"
Joe: "You
mean Jato? even though they are rockets I believe they call it JATO
Jet Assisted Take-Off but I may be mistaken. But in answer to your question
yes it has been done before on a C-130 painted up in Blue Angels Fat
Albert Scheme. I have plans for a C-130 and want to build 2 one in the
Fat Albert with Jato and the other as an AC-130 Spectre Gunship. Joe"
Update: "Craig I found this on Fat Alberts JATO thought it may help. PS
this weekend is our annual airshow and I got to see the Albert fire
off its JATO its awesome even after seeing it do this prob a dozen times
before
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jhove1/fatalbert.html
Sometimes "Fat Albert" takes center stage at the airshows
where the Blue Angels are performing. Demonstrating the tactical high
performance "JATO" (jet assisted) take-off, the bulky cargo
plane blasts skyward at a 45 degree angle! At take-off rotation speed,
eight solid fuel rocket boosters attached to the fuselage, ignite a
cascade of flame, sparks and smoke as the plane roars skyward. It is
such an awesome display that some spectators claim it's more exciting
than the jet formation! so a 45 degree angle
is stated for fat albert that would be a pretty good starting point
Joe"
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Question 100: "Hi Joe, I was wondering on how to cover cloth bays on a wing while
glassing the rest of the wing, Ie Corsair, but mine is a Chipmunk. I
am going to try Super Coverite sealed with nitrate dope applied first
over the open structures, then taping off the open structure while applying
.75 oz glass and EZ Poxy over the rest of wing after the coverite. The
question is will this do the trick, or can you suggest other routes
to follow to accomplish this task. Also I was wondering how modelers
replicate fabric control surfaces on bare metal( aluminum) WW2 fighter,
example P-40's. Later in the war a lot of aircraft arrived in both theaters
in unfinished metal and the tail surfaces were also silver, but fabric
coated.. Were these silver doped??? Thanks Bud for your time. Barney
Gaffney"
Joe: "Hi
Barney it is hard to glass over open bays but if I was going to do it
I would use Solartex http://www.balsausa.com/coverings/itemlist.htp?id=39&shopperid= it is iron on then heat shrink and then just put your fav resin over
it. You mentioned EZ Poxy have you ever tried Polyurethane? it will
give it just as strong as the epoxy but a lot cheaper and harder finish
and best of all you just have to brush it on. As for control surfaces
yes they were fabric covered and usually silver primered which helped
when painting to keep the colors even toned. However, if you look at
real planes you can see a distinct shade difference between the control
surfaces and the rest of the plane. For control surfaces I use solartex
which gives it a realistic fabric appearance and don't forget the pinking
tape as even though it was a metal warbird they still had to stitch
the fabric on the control surfaces. Also adding a few square pieces
of solartex on top of the covered control surfaces makes for nice scale
looking patches as bullets always seemed to find a way into the fabric.
Joe"
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Question 101:
"Dear Joe: I am contemplating the purchase
of the Centurt Jet all composite 100" scale F4U Corsair with all
of the "goodies", e.g., open/close cowl, scale exhausts, wheels,
cockpit, etc. Have you had any experience with this kit? Have you heard
any comments, pro or con? Please advise.
Lou"
Joe: "Hi Lou Sorry I haven't had any experience with these kits nor
have I seen any of their kits up close. I usually scratch build everything
so do not have much experience with kits. But an all composite plane
with all the scale goodies if the price doesn't sound too bad I would
go for it. Usually if they go through the trouble to build an all composite
plane and the costs involved, then they are going to make sure and do
it right. Joe "
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Question 102: "MR JOE, am building a yellow aircraft
p-47 and heres the problem, instr booklet calls for main tires of 4
1/4....yellow website says 5in...i called yellow, guy said its 4 5/8th!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the ones offered from yellow are also foam tires, i fly off a paved
runway, so foam will not work, whats my choices? thanks "
Joe: "Hi
Donnie I would go with what you like. the best way would be to measure
the wheel well and see how big of a tire you can fit. since you are
running off pavement size is no big deal go with your gut. if your running
or may run on grass you always want the largest tires that will work.
I am not up on what the scale tire size for a P-47 is but you can do
it that way too find the full scale size and divide it by the scale
of your plane. Joe"
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Question 103: "Joe, I have been reading your fiberglass techniques with interest.
A thought came to mind as how there are nylon and glass/nylon propellers.
I was thinking to use my wife's worn/damaged discarded hoisery instead
of fiberglass. The
Nylon-mesh and Poly Matrix should provide a strong surface, maybe? Advantages
would be low-cost and easy application, as the leg-section of the hoisery
would just be slipped on over the wing. Strange idea but what do you
think? V.J. Daniels"
Joe: "Hi VJ I have used them before and they work great. I have even
gone to fabric stores and got silk and other light fabrics that were
on sale and used them. the fabric is mainly to help hold the resin/polyU/Epoxy
from cracking and helps hold it to the wing. It also adds some strength
but you dont have to use glass its just lightweight and easy to use.
the main purpose for glassing a plane is for a nice smooth surface for
finishing. Its adding some strength to the plane is secondary. Joe "
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Question 104: "Dear Joe, I came across your website while looking for information
on a full-size or even 3/4 scale aircraft that can be built from plans.
I thought your site was very informative and that you might have some
information on where to find such plans. One of the reasons I am looking
for something in the warbird category is because I have seen a Curtiss
P-40 at some time in 3/4 scale and because I know that the Hurricane
MK1 actually used a lot of fabric, tubing, and some wood. I am interested
in finding a low-wing monoplane for better visibility and to reduce
the drag associated with biplanes. Hopefully within these parameters
I can also find an aircraft capable of at least mild aerobatics and
good speed for cross-country flying. Thank you for your time and let's
keep them
flying. Sincerely, Eric
Starling"
Joe: "HAHA Eric I bet ya thought ya stumped me didn't ya? Well it just
so happens I know of a company that has just what you are looking for.
Here is a site of a guy doing a FW190 and thought you might like to
see it. Also on his page is the contact info for the company it is called
W.A.R. they specialize in plans etc for miniature warbirds that people
can fly in. His URL is
http://www.warfw190.homestead.com/ now the company does more than just the FW you will just have to call
and see what they have. His happens to be something like 60% scale.
Their website is http://www.warreplica.homestead.com/ their planes are 1/2 size of the full
bird. The planes avail (maybe others too ) are the FW 190, BF 109, Zero,
Corsair, P 47, Hawker Seafury, P 51 think there's
a couple choices for you Joe"
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Question 105: "Hi Joe- I am looking into getting the Midwest AT-6 Texan kit.
I know the kit doesn't come with flaps. Do you know of where I can get
the basic dimensions of the flaps so I can incorporate scale flaps on
this kit? I have looked around on the internet for some AT-6 drawings,
but see that these are hard to come by. Thanks, Jeremy"
Joe: "Hi Jeremy. The Texan is an easy one as most planes are to figure
out flap length for scale most flaps start at the ailerons and goto
the fairing. For the Texan though they go from aileron to aileron as
3 panels 1 for each of the wing and 1 across the fuse. Looking at a
lousey copy (barely readable) of the Ziroli AT6 the flaps at the aileron
ends are 5" and at the fuse are 6" remembering his is 1/5th
scale you should be able to adjust just take full scale of 20"
and 36" then divide by the scale of the the plane. You may have
to do some fudging but that will get you close enough. The other alternative
would be to contact Bob Banka http://www.bobsairdoc.com/ or Scale Aircraft Research http://webhome.idirect.com/~jimbod/ for a set of good drawings. Joe"
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Question 106: "I
just wanted to let you know how amazed I am with your website. This
is perhaps one of the most informative and entertaining websites I have
ever been to. As an engineering student I really enjoy the emphasis
you put on the building and design aspect to model aviation. Models
are such an important part of engineering design and it is wonderful
to see the process involved in building some of these amazing models.
I would also like to ask you if you have ever heard of someone building
a Grumman A-6E Intruder. My father flew these aircraft in the Navy and
I have always had a secret love affair with them. As the military will
never sell one of them I will have to just fly a model. The only problem
with that is I have never seen a kit or an attempt at building one.
I assume that it would be rather difficult. Well if you have heard of
one or know where I could do more research towards that end I would
appreciate it greatly. Thank you again and I look forward to the new
aircraft being posted on your site. Shaun Cain"
Joe: "Hi Shaun, no I haven't had any experience with this plane. I been
wanting to do one but from all the nasty stuff the jet guys say about
this plane I decided not to. I am not talking the JetMart plane but
the A6 itself. I guess it has been tried several times with really poor
results. After hearing all the info I would doubt the turbine would
be very good in this plane. That being said I am not a major Jet Guy
so I would get a second opinion on it maybe on RCU in the Jet Forum
you would be likely to find someone that has some actual experience
with the model. link to Jetmart USA for their A6 Kit http://www.jetmartusa.com/ Joe"
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Question 107: "Hi Joe, In the process of doing research for my 1/5 scale F4U
Corsair, I found that no one makes 3 or four blade props that are simple,
bolt to the hub kinds, and that have the scale diameter and look for
warbirds. I decided to look into making one myself. What can you tell
me about where I can get equipment for making propellor blades from
carbon-fiber? For patent reasons I can't really say much about the design,
but if it works, it'll be good. Thanks for your time, sir. Karl."
Joe: "Hi Karl I am not sure on anything regarding making props its all
Greek to me. As for the reason no scale flying props for warbirds is
that most the engines out there couldn't turn a scale prop very well
without a reduction drive and there just aren't that many drives out
there. Take the corsair prop for example if I remember correctly it
had like a 13 ft dia prop. If you cut that down to 1/5th scale that
would be 2 1/2 ft dia. well you would need a hefty engine to turn a
30 " scale 3 or 4 blade prop which would be very hard to fit that
size engine in a 1/5th scale plane that would then be totally opposite
of the scale looks you want to achieve. Besides WW I era planes that
can fly scale 2 blades and C-130 that has chopped down 4 blade props
that can be made pretty easily it is very slim to be able to fly a WW
II bird with scale prop. Now there may be a few planes out there that
can do a scale prop, but it is just about unprobable you would be able
to fly a scale prop especially on the corsair. As for equipment I'm
not sure about carbon fiber equipment, but there are a lot of guys on
RCU that have a couple threads on making wood props using a home made
cnc machines. Joe"
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Question 108: "Hi I`m
currently building a topflite p-40 and was think about engine size.
It has fixed gear but has flaps , it weighs about 1.8 kg with out any
hardware, motor servos e.g.. Will a GMS 61 two stroke pull it along
, all will I need something bigger.
Do you know what topflite recommended weight is?"
Joe: "Hi
Michael Top flight says the weight is 8-10.5 lbs the prob is I have
yet to see one that light they build heavy. They also call for a .61-.90
2 stroke and due to their weight I would go towards the top end of the
engine recommendation as a .61 would be pushing it. Joe"
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Question 109: "Hiya Joe, Being relatively
new to the hobby (been a fan since childhood though!) I have a question
regarding the feasibility of a project that I intend to undertake when
the time is right.. I would like to have a realistically detailed Corsair
(1/8TH SCALE OR SMALLER) that is also able to fly and fly well! The
catch is that I would like this model to have all the bells and whistles
including: thermal cowl flaps, folding wings, retracts, working gear
doors, flaps, hidden control lines/actuators etc Now, in my research
I've come to conclude that perhaps best kit to use would be the 1/8th
scale D&B (or even the Royal/Marutaka one) due to their great scaling.
Do you have any experience with either of those? Also, I would have
preferred a slightly smaller scale (1/9TH is perfect for me but it's
such an odd scale and I had trouble finding accessories)..could I do
all the above using the old Jemco 1/9th scale kit with foam core wings,
or would the size be too much of a detrimental factor? Thanks, Wil"
Joe: "Hi Wil I built the royal kit way back in 80 on the ship I was
stationed on in the navy and it flew ok. now the engines etc are better
and so much more avail for our models it could be done. As for it flying
good that's the problem with the small planes is the wingloading on
them. When you increase the size of the model from little to giant scale
the amount of weight the plane can carry increases exponentially. At
1/8th scale adding all that to it would probably result in a poorly
flying plane. The smallest plane I would try doing all that with would
be 1/5th scale. Joe "
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Question 110: "Joe, I'm finishing several planes and read
in one of your Q/As about using very small wood screws to attach the
canopy. Where can I find a source for such screws? Best
Regards, Hal Fasig "
Joe: "Hi Hal one place you can get them is Micromark http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/dir/search.html?searchstring=screws they aren't super cheap but if you dont need hundreds you are ok a pack
of 10 is $2.50. The Place I like to use is Micro Fasteners http://www.microfasteners.com/ they have about anything you could ever dream of. Joe "
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Question 111: "Hey Joe, I just finished sheeting a wing, the trailing edge now
has a bow in it, that was not there before I sheeted it. I wet it and
clamped it to a straight edge, if that doesn't work what will? thanks
Mike "
Joe: "If
it is a foam core sheeted than you just make a diagonal slice through
the sheeting on top and a slice on the opposite angle on the bottom
then glue the splits and weight it down. For wood covered I Like to
get a pan of water and put it on the stove and get it boiling and set
the wing over the top where the warp is and "Steam " it then
weight or clamp it down. You can also use a teapot and put the section
over the spout as the steam comes out. Joe "
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Question 112: "Joe, I'm getting a Meister 100in corsair laser cut kit from precision
cut kits, as well as all the parts from Meister, how well will a laser
cut kit go together? this is my first build kit, have been told that
the laser kits basically snap together. Concerned by the center section
on the gull wing... was also thinking about doing a 1pc wing and using
a quadra 100 with what prop? would love to run a 3 blade for scale flight
please help. I'm praying to the balsa gods.....Donnie in Texas"
Joe: "Hi Donnie Laser cut kits in my opinion are far superior to any
kit out there. Though you can get really good quality and in some cases
just as good as laser cut by some manufacturers like Mace Gill that
hand cuts each kit, the price and time to get kit usually is cheaper
and faster with the laser cut ones. Like all kits the quality depends
on the quality of work done to prep the files for cutting. With the
laser you get good tight fits that aren't super tight you have to fight
to get them to fit but slide together snugly enough you can usually
put a bunch of the plane together without glue then make sure everything
is correct then glue it together. Once you have tasted a laser cut kit
you will never go back to die crunched or cut your own again they are
just too much fun to build with as you normally don't have to "tweek"
every part to get it to fit. For prop sizes I am not sure I would think
the range would be 22/14 - 24/12 for a 2 blade prop.
The conversion for a three and four bladed propeller
is a simple task if you know what two bladed propeller you use on a
given Engine. For example, on a three bladed propeller you would drop
the diameter and keep the pitch. On a four bladed, you would drop the
diameter and the pitch. For instance if you had a two bladed 24-10 propeller
and you wanted a three bladed you would use a 22-10 and and for a 4
blade you would use a 22-8. Joe"
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Question 113: "Dear Joe: After reading your article "How
To Glass With Polyurethane" I have decided to glass my Top Flight
.60 size p-47. But since I am new to this I thought I would first practice
on my Great Planes .40 size p-51. It is not as nice of a kit so I would
not be terribly disappointed if it doesn't work out. But I was wondering
if the .40 size plane will be to small to be glassed? Also, there is
a large part of each wing that does not have sheeting, should I put
sheeting in these areas before I cover with glass?"
Joe: "Hi Scott if you want something to practice on you can go ahead
and do your 40 size. you may need a little bit bigger engine for it
depending how powerful the engine whips the plane around now. I would
sheet that open area then glass the entire plane using .5 oz glass.
I dont think it will affect a plane that small very much since it is
very light weight finish. Joe"
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Question 114: "Hi, I’m trying to find .50 cal machine
guns for my 1/7th scale P-38. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Robert "
Joe: "Robert
Wing Manufacturing has some 1/9th scale brownings and has them in barrels
only http://wingmfg.com/Pages/Wac3.html they may work as they are a little larger in my opinion than 1/9th scale.
You can also easily make your own with some brass and aluminum tube.
I have a section on my site where I did this for my B-25 http://home.mchsi.com/~dahuntley/b25/id3.html since on the P-38 you only need shoprt barrels for the nose i think
it would be quick and easy to make them yourself and when painted up
they look really good. The only others I know of are william bros. but
they are mor WWI oriented. Joe"
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Question 115: "Joe, I will be building a Ziroli A6M5 (91" Span) and I'm
trying to decide on an engine for it. I'm in Colorado which is a mile
above sea level and I want to buy the most powerful engine I can get.
I see the H.P. ratings on all the engines but are they really accurate
??? Should I go after the biggest C.I. engine regardless of weight that
will fit in the 10.7" round cowling ???
I have heard that gas engine vibrate a lot and are really loud. Is Saito's
450 dual cylinder 4 stroke the answer ???? Any advice would be appreciated
.... Thanks "
Joe: "Hi Kees its been a while since i lived in Colorado (morrison in
abt 1982) and if i remember we had our carbs reworked. I would go high
end of the engine spectrum for this plane and you would be fine remember
you will be flying scale not 3D. I would suggest going with the ZDZ
80 http://rcshowcase.com/html/engines/zdz80.html and from center of prop to end of caps is 6.33" so it should fit
nicely completely inside your cowl. The other thing is you need the
weight up front on a warbird as they tend to be tail heavy. with the
80 you should have plenty of power to horse your plane around even at
that altitude. I would also suggest ya talk with some of the guys in
the local clubs. at a mile above sea level I am assuming you are probably
in the dever area and i know there is a hobby shop in Aurora dont remember
the name but a lot of the IMAC Aerobatic guys talk about it. Since they
need more power than you will to do their tricks I would try and contact
someone there to help you set up your engine when you get it whatever
one you decide. You could use the G-62 but at that altitude you may
have some power probs but I cant say for sure. besides the ZDZ 80 is
electronic ignition so be easier to start especially at altitude and
its onliy abt$100 more than the G-62. I have flown that engine several
times when it first came out and am going to be using one in my 1/3.5
scale Hurricane and my 1/4 scale spit cause they are so reliable. Joe
"
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Question 116: "Hello Joe: Great
site! I will be building (soon) an A-6 Intruder from Jet Mart. The fuselage
is fiberglass and the wing is foam to be covered with balsa. Can I cover
the wing with ultra-thin carbon fiber sheeting (all cost issues aside)?
What would I use to cement the carbon to the foam? Thanks
Lou"
Joe: "Hi Lou I cant really tell you if you would be able to use carbon
fiber like that nor what you would adhere it with. If you are looking
for strength instead of balsa use some obechi it is light weight and
really strong. You can read more on obechi here http://www.superiorbalsa.com/obechi.htm also there are articles on carbon fiber if you follow their links on
their main page http://www.superiorbalsa.com/
maybe you can find more info there. Joe "
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Question 117: "Dear Joe. Sorry to bother you for such a matter, but, I am stuck.
Could you, please, explain the construction of the crutch on the Ziroli
Corsair in more detail for those of us who are just learning the scratch
building process. I do have an American Kit Cutters wood kit for this
airplane. Thanks for the help. Lou"
Joe: "Hi
Lou I would be happy to explain the crutch method of building. On Ziroli's
plans you will see a full top view. On that view there will be some
thick black lines. These are the crutch outlines. You take your 1/4
x 1/2 balsa and just pin it down over the plans on top of the dark lines.
If you have to splice I like to glue a small piece of 1/16 ply on the
inside of the splice to strengthen it. After you get the 2 main crutch
pieces in place you will see dark crossmember lines. Just cut ya some
of your 1/4 x 1/2 and glue in place, then take some 1/8 x 1/2 and cut
and glue the diagonals in place (you will cut these out later they are
just to keep the crutch from twisting. You can see the crutch and what
it looks like on these 2 pages from my archives http://home.mchsi.com/~dahuntley/b25/id6.html and http://home.mchsi.com/~jahuntley/hurricane/hur4.html During the construction you will glue the wing saddles in place where
shown on the top view, usually on the inside of the crutch. After the
crutch is done ya just raise it up on something about 6" or 8"
then you slide the formers over the crutch. Each former rests on a crossmember
thus no need for marking their locations just be sure to put them on
in the right order. You then square the former up to the crutch and
glue in place then it is a simple matter of adding your stringers. Hope
this helps feel free to email me if you have any more questions. Joe
"
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Question 118: "Joe, my dad asked me to
find out some independent info on a kit he is thinking about. Do you
know anything about the skyshark rc avenger tbm kit 1/9th scale? My
dad doesn't have a computer but he can build some planes. Looking for
info like...how does it build, how does it fly, how are the plans and
instruction book, any nose/tail weight needed, is any hardware included,
does it include pushrods. Any info on this kit would be appreciated.
Thanks. Maurice"
Joe: "For Maurice, I have had the pleasure of enlarging the avenger
for skyshark to 1/6th scale so that in the future they may market it.
When I was sent the cad files I was amazed at how accurate and detailed
they were. The kit builds really easy and a complete scale cockpit is
designed into the fuselage framing. Inside the flaps they are also laser
etched and laser cut so when you are done building them they have scale
ribs etc in them when you lower the flaps. I have not flown one but
know people who have and they say they fly really nice and they should
be pretty light because of all the lightening holes in all their parts.
Personal opinion your dad couldn't go wrong with one of their kits.
As for what is included I am not sure as I never got the kit just the
cad files for enlargement and did some test framing from that. You might
want to check out this thread on RC Universe by Mike Chilson who is
building a FW190 by them and shows the construction as he proceeds. http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=163128&forumid=34 they also sell the skyshark kits through their new company http://www.rcscaleproducts.com you can contact mike through there or that thread and ask him what all
is included in the kit. As for the instructions and the plans they are
very easy to read. The plans are color thus with the different colors
used when they print them it makes it really easy to see different things
and the instruction book is really nice and loaded with pictures. I
went to their website and here's what's in their kits:
All Skyshark R/C kits include:
All necessary wood to complete the kit
Plastic parts (vent hoods, belly pans, exhaust stacks, wing fillets,
etc)
Fiberglass Cowl
Fixed gear with plans and instructions for retracts
Full color sheets showing different paint schemes
Our kits feature:
CAD Design
Quality Laser Cutting on all wood parts for ease of assembly
Built in washout on all wing ribs
Minimal Carving and Sanding
Lightening holes in ribs and formers for substantial weight savings
Plotter Printed, Full Color Plans
Photo Illustrated Instruction Manuals
Full Color Precut Vinyl Graphics
High Quality Fiberglass Cowls
You can download the manual
here http://www.skysharkrc.com/PDF/Avenger.pdf Hope this helps Joe"
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Question 119: "Hello Joe: Where can I obtain detailed
full size plans (or smaller scale) of the F4U-1/1A. I have several questions
regarding the placement, design, number and size of the NAV lights,
landing lights, identifiers, etc. Are there electrical plans available?
Can you assist me in this search? Thanks,
Lou"
Joe: "Hi Lou you might try the chance vought website http://www.vought.com/ they have downloads etc on there and even can contact them and see if
they cant get you the info. Best place to get info is direct from the
factory. You might also try http://www.f4ucorsair.com/ there is a lot of info there. Joe "
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Question 120: "Hi Joe I`m currently finishing of
a top flite p-40, the whole plane has been painted. The problem is the
TE of the flap does not lay flat against the TE of the wing, I put a
straight edge rule against the flap and its straight, the TE of the
wing on the other hand is warped, there's probably about 1 to 2 mm gap.
Is this going to be a problem ? How can I fix it? Thanks
michael"
Joe: "Hi
Michael I don't think that little bit is going to affect you that you
are going to notice. Other than it being seen unless you are going to
compete with it I wouldn't worry too much about it. The only thing I
can thing of possibly doing is to wet it with ammonia and warm water
mixture and then tape or pin it in place and allow it to dry and it
should shape it. I don't like using ammonia unless absolutely necessary
as it damages the fibers of wood making them weaker but on that small
of an area I don't think it will do any
damage. Joe"
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