Question 145: "Hello, I am considering Hanger 9's 1.50
size p51. Does this plane because of its larger size have the same retract
problems as the 60 size? Or are the retracts beefier because the plane
is bigger? Also would a zdz 40 engine work on this plane? I know its
alot of power. (in my opinion you can't have to much!!) You can always
back off the throttle. But its nice to have it in a pinch. Would the
airframe survive with the extra hp. Thanks in advance, Zaim"
Joe: "hello Ziam as far as the retracts I wouldn't know as I don't use
them (robarts) I would check with Darrell at sierra precision for his
retracts. He has a set that fits the top flight giant P-51 and I would
assume they would fit the hangar 9 but I am not sure. They are better
retracts in my opinion and would hold up a lot more abuse. I use nothing
but darrells gear as I would rather pay a little more than have the
headaches I have had with robarts. (Remember this is only my opinion
and not that of rc warbirds) as for the ZDZ 40 all I can say is if it
will fit go for it. I like to put the biggest engine I can afford in
as you said can always keep off the throttle but have the extra power
if you need it to get out of trouble. Joe"
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Question 146: "Hey Joe, I am going to be starting on my
Ziroli Stuka soon and I was wanting to go with the Zenoah G-62 for power.
I was however concerned with concealing the exhaust under that narrow
cowling. I have seen many pictures of Stukas with a gaudy muffler hanging
out the side and I would like to make mine as clean as possible. Any
suggestions? "
Joe: "Ian, I don't think you should have a problem with it, however
I would suggest a pitts style muffler for it over a big canister one.
You might also check with century Jet as they make scale working exhaust
or custom exhaust reasonably maybe they can help you out by making you
an end that can bolt onto your 62 with a pipe running to the back of
your motor where you could mount a pitts style muffler. There are probably
stock fittings you can by that divert your exhaust around to the rear
where you can mount your
muffler. I would tell you to go with a ZDZ engine because they have
rear OR side exhaust but I just found out they aren't available any
more. Joe"
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Question 147: "Hi Joe! After reading your article on your
website about glassing with Polyurethane I would like to have your opinion
about using 0.2 oz/sq.yd fiberglass tissue that I saw on the web at
www.cstsales.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass-tissue.htm instead of 0.5 oz/sq.yd.
Can I expect the same finishing results at a lighter final weight for
my TopFlite Cessna 182 Skylane. Many Thanks
Jean-Pierre "
Joe: "Hi
Jean-Pierre yes you should expect the same finish with it. The glass
cloth you use isn't the concern for the weight but the material you
use to glass with thus you would be using the same material i.e. the
poly U so it will have the same finish weight as if you used the .5.
While it wont weigh the same exactly I think you get my point. You will
be using a lighter glass and since it is a tissue wont need as much
to fill the weave so will give you a lot lighter finish. Joe"
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Question 148: "I am building the Ziroli Corsair circa '91
and the stab saddle placement isn't shown, except for a horizontal view
which is virtually useless. I don't know if I have to tear some stringers
out, if it lays on the crutch and is flush with the former edge, etc.
(?) Any help would be appreciated! Regards,
RORY_S"
Joe: "Hi
Rory if ya look real close under the stab on the side view you can see
the SS1. And it is itty bitty. Normal for Ziroli is to sit the stab
saddles usually labeled SS1 on top of the crutch. I have built several
of his planes and they all build the same way and use the same abbreviations.
Joe"
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Question 149: "Hi Joe, Thank you for all your knowledge!!! I am currently
plan building a B-25 Mitchell Ziroli, with a 52” wing span. These
are old plans, but the plane is coming out great. I do however need
some suggestions on building the three clear canopy’s. The Nose,
Pilot, and tail canopy in particular. These cannot be purchased. What
can I make them out of? Thanks for the advice in advance. Building in
Boston Chris"
Joe: "Chris What I would do is use balsa blocks or something like pine
and carve your canopy shapes. After you get it the way you like it use
something like clear polyurethane and give them several coats. Next
wetsand them smooth and take some kind of rubbing or buffing compound
and buff them up really good to get rid of any scratches. I would use
these to Pull your own canopys from clear styrene. Joe"
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Question 150: "Hi Joe. I have a question about my TF P-39.
I am getting ready to fit and attach the stab. The problem is, when
it comes time to attach the elevators, I can’t figure out how to
do it. When it is time, there is no way to get the elevators on both
sides in one piece. Are you supposed to cut it in half and then attach
it? Basically saying, the slot where the middle of the joiner wire is
is inaccessible to me (the fin is glued on). I’m sorry for the
vague and broad question; I’m having trouble wording this. Any
suggestions will be greatly appreciated. --Aaron "
Joe: "Aaron the problem is your fin being glued on. you were supposed
to have it pinned in place or something just to check it and then remove
the fin to place your wire in the slot (see step 8 on page 17) I think
that might be where you are coming into problems. you may have to remove
the fin in order to get it to go together correctly Joe"
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Question 151: "I need some "nice" wheels for
a Hanger 9 150 size P51. They need to be 3 1/4 diameter.........but
not the usual junk that keep coming apart on every landing. Glennis
has some nice ones but they start @ 4 inches..........Aluminum rims
and tires that will hold up under 15 lb. is what I'm looking for...........any
ideas?"
Joe: "Hi Hal I like Scale wheels from http://scalewheels.com/ they start at 3.5 inches though but hey whats a 1/4" and they are
a lot less than glennis. You might want to find your own tires of the
size you want and contact Darrell at Sierra Precision see if he can
make you some scale wheels. Thats the only 2 options I know about. Joe
"
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Question 152: "Hello, I
have a variety of scale warbirds that I have constructed, from ARF's
and kits, as well as some old planes I have recently refurbished. Unfortunately,
most of these planes are without pilots, and I am looking for a good
source, or sources for 1/4, 1/5, 1/6, 1/7 th scale full figure, and
3/4 figure military WW2 pilots. Can you please let me know of any websites,
and or manufactures for good scale ww2 pilot figures?"
Joe: "Joe
there a lot of people including myself which use the ultimate soldier
series of pilots which you can get at walmart, kaybee toys, kmarts and
toys R us if you are here in the states they work great for 1/5th and
1/6th scales. if not do a search on the web for ultimate soldiers. for
the larger ones there is a gal who custom makes them called "pilots
by Diane" I cant seem to find her contact info at the moment but
I know her husband frequents RC universe you could post a thread there
looking for her contact info. she is reasonable and does some nice pilots.
Joe"
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Question 153: "hi Joe. i have just purchased topflight's
P-40 kit and am interested in decking it all out for show and maybe
flight and was wondering if you had any ideas about where i could find
a good detailed cockpit kit. i've also purchased the one that is done
by bob dively and am really not happy with the production of it. is
there anyone else that makes one or do you know of where i can get some
good photos to try making my own from scratch? also, how about ideas
for a sliding canopy and can you fly with it open? thanx, doug"
Joe: "Dynamic
Balsa sells some nice kits but they pricey. http://dbalsa.com/ when I went to get the url they had the P-40 one staring me right in
the face too on their front page. Joe "
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Question 154: "Joe, I agree with your recommendation for
the Elmers Polyurethane glue. It takes about 20 minutes till it hardens,
and about 4 hours till it fully cures. The one question I have is, can
the poly glue be used instead of the CA glues on the aircraft. Since
I do not have a time constraint, I can wait 2 hours between completing
the next steps in some cases, and in others, Ca offers a more viable
alternative. "
Joe: "Lewis
Poly Urethane glues are nice for planking. when I plank I run a bead
along the edge and then CA it to the formers to hold it in place and
so I can run several planks that way. CA I just use to tack things in
place. The glue I would recommend using for Building is Elmers Titebond
II. It is made for the furnature makers etc and is very strong. I add
food coloring to mine so that when it is cured I can easily see it.
The problem with Poly glues are that if you dont put them on propperly
they are weak. Also if theres too much it foams everywhere making a
big mess. My feelings are that Poly glues are great for laminating stuff,
sheeting foam cores, and planking but after that they arent very good
for building. Gorilla glue is good it is basically the same thing as
probond but with a different name. Joe"
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Question 155: "I hear that .50 oz cloth is what i should
use on a TF .60 size P-47. I can't seem to find it any where. Also what
would you use on the Giant TF P-47? Thanks Chris"
Joe: "Hi Chris .5 oz is all I ever use. Normally you can get it through
your LHS without a problem. A lot of times I will goto walmart and go
through their fabric department and get me some really light weight
cotton fabric to glass with. Matter of fact I will probably use it with
my 1/4 scale spit project. At $1.00 to $1.50 a yard in the sale section
(yard of fabric is actually 36 x 60) it makes for a lot cheaper than
glass cloth and works the exact same. Usually it is only like 30% cotton
but is is also just about the same as using .5 oz glass. If ya really
want to use glass Contact Mike Chilson at http://www.rcscaleproducts.com/ he doesnt have it up on his site yet but they have some big rolls of
the stuff they can cut to order. if you really have to you can goto
.75 oz cloth. As for the 47 I use nothing but .5 oz cloth on all of
my planes for Normal glassing of wings and fuse unless I use the cotton
fabric. If I am making a cowl or something I will use larger sizes.
Joe"
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Question 156: "Joe, My first visit to the site. Like finding
gold. Myself and 4 others are building 96" P-40E models from modified
to exact scale Brian Taylor and Ziroli plans. All powered with 3W 75IS
engines. I am a member of the World Miniature warbirds Association,
a member of the Scale Squadron of Southern California, and I announce
Top Gun in Lakeland, Florida.
My most recent project is a Byron T6 all scaled out with hidden servos.
Power is a Zenoah G62 on CH ignition. I have searched everywhere for
a scale Scale muffler exhaust system for this model that will mate to
a T6. My friend John Collver flies the aircraft in the attached photo.
This is the one I am modeling. All servo's are hidden and scale hinging
operates the ailerons. I have tried Iron Bay (Formerly Byron originals),
Ziroli, Bison, B&B Specialties, JTEC, Barton Retracts, AND Slimline,
with no solution other than building one from new metal. Any suggestions
or referrals will be appreciated. Sam "
Joe: "Sam
Contact Century Jets they are doing custom exhausts and i have seen
some of their work and looks nice. Heres a tip I have used once before
to get the scale USED looking exhaust. Goto your local gunstore and
get some BROWNING not Blueing stuff. they use browning for the muzzleloader
guys. I wont tell the authentic way to brown hehehe. then ask the guy
what he would recommend to thin it down or just look at the label. if
you thin it way down you can do increasing levels of browning from very
faint to darker. to give it the brown streaks some exhausts have just
dry brush with a paint brush. Some Brownings require the metal to be
heated first so be sure which you are using before you start so you
know how to apply it properly. Joe"
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Question 157: "Really enjoy the site. My question, what
is the proper technique for sheeting a foam core wing with balsa using
polyuerathane glue. Should the glue be applied to the core and the skin,
or to just one of them? How thick should it be put on? Also do you have
a link to a web site the explanes in detail how to accomplish all the
other details of building a foam core wing, ie installing wing tubes,
servo leads, servos, control surfaces, etc. As you may have guessed
I am embarking on my first foam core wing. Thanks, Ron Berg"
Joe: "Ron
its gonna be really hard to explain the foam core stuff as i dont work
with it as i had too many bad experiences foam hates me :0) I would
suggest asking Jack Devine abt that as he is very good with foam planes.
As for the sheeting I can help you there. what you need to do is to
apply the poly glue to the wood itself or the core itself. I think it
is easier to do the core. then use a credit card type squeegee and spread
it out but you need to spread it out paper thin. then ya put the sheeting
on top flip the core repeat and then set the core in the core saddles
the core comes in and weight it down and leave it there overnight then
ya come back the next day and trim it up. its basically pretty easy
and thats the one thing I can do with cores heheehe. But Jack Devine
would be a good source and you can check his website out for more tips http://www.jackdevinemodels.com/ Joe"
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Question 158: "Hi Joe; Very impressed with your website
about airplane modeling. I have almost 40 years flying R/C model airplanes
aerobatic and scale. I appreciate very kindly to ask you that I cannot
find information of propeller charts for specific engine size in both
2 and 4 cycle engines. Thanks, Good Luck. Javier"
Joe: "Javier I only have 1 engine chart http://home.mchsi.com/~jahuntley/help/help.html#Tip%204 then below it is the prop conversion chart. Joe"
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Question 159: "Dear Joe, My
brother in law and I are putting our first big scale war bird. We was
wondering what is the best way to cut the slots in the spinner for the
propellers? Eric G."
Joe: "Hi
Eric. well the thing I usually do is to set the spinner on top of the
prop and draw a rough outline of where I am going to cut and the shape.
I always make it smaller than it needs to be. Then I start cutting.
If it is a plastic spinner an xacto works good if it is Aluminim a set
of good sharp tin snips will work. After it is precut I then set it
on again and mark a little more. at this pint with a aluminum spinner
I will usually slow way down and file it the rest of the way to get
a nice smooth edge and so it wont start denting the sopinner. if it
is plastic I slice still with an exacto. I repeat this process until
I am done. Joe"
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Question 160: "Please tell me where I can buy, trade, steal?,
construction plans for a OV-1 A,B,C, or D to built a RC model. I have
a special interest in this plane since one saved my life while I was
serving in Vietnam 1963-1965. Any kind of help would be of great help.
Thank You, John "
Joe: "Here
ya go John Vance Makes one he has some nice plans I am abt to do his
HE 111 http://www.vanvan.us/mohawk.htm Joe"
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Question 161: "Hi, I am looking for whoever is selling
a set of slope soarer plans and canopy for the WW II German V-1 Buzz
Bomb. Do you or anyone in your organization know who this person is
and how I can contact them so I can buy the plans? I sure would appreaciate
any and all assistance you can give on this matter. Thank you, Richard"
Joe: "Sarge
a friend of mine from Norway sent me a link to some plans for you. He
says can be powered or as a slope soarer I put the info below for you The british mag "Flying Scale Models"
has plans for a 40" V1. You'll find it at http://www.modelactivitypress.com/fs_frameset1.htm Look under "R/C Scale IC Power",
you can build it powered or as a PSS. Good Luck, Joe"
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Question 162: "Hey Joe, just a quick question. Do many
modelers take on multiple building projects at the same time? I’m
thinking of tackling a single engine Ziroli plane and multi-engine bomber
at the same time. Is this common or is it wise to stick with one at
a time? Thanks, Patrick"
Joe: "Hi Pat the basic answer is yes there are a lot of modellers with
multiple projects. I myself currently have 4 on the table I have had
as many as 7 when I was building for people. If you have the room to
separate the two projects so the kits dont get mixed up go for it. I
think for most modellers 2 projects at once would be easy to do. Remember
there are a lot of times where your project may be stopped. In my case
I have a couple on the side waiting on retracts and other things. Thus
you will always have to stop building for a week or so while waiting
on parts or have to stop while waiting on glue to dry when sheeting
or stop while waiting for glass to dry lots of things cause you to stop.
Whit I like to do is work 1 week on one project and the next on the
second. By the end of the week I am usually at a point where I need
to wait on something to dry or to make a run to the hobby store etc.
It also breaks up the monotony of working on the same plane day after
day.
Now there are those people that aren't into building and for them they
need to see the light at the end of the tunnel so if they get started
on 2 projects at once chances are neither will get finished as they
will get tired of building. You need to find out what kind of a builder
you are. A hurry up and get this silly thing built or someone who has
a lot of patience and when its done its done. Joe"
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Question 163: "Joe im trying reinforce the canopy on my
miester 102" 109. an who can i call for a 7.5" spinner.Thanks
bob "
Joe: "Bob if you arent in a big hurry I am working on an article on
how to make a scale fiberglass framework for your model. I will be doing
one on a 109, a tempest (bubble type canopy) and a spitfire that will
give 3 different types of canopies which will cover anything you would
want to do. I hope to have it finished by the end of the month and posted
in a special page I will be having on http://www.rcscalebuilder.com
with detailed articles I will be doing for scale construction help.
if you are in a hurry you can goto your hobby shop and get some narrow
strips of brass and glue them to the inside of your canopy where the
recesses are for the framework.
As for a 7.5" spinner I dont know. you may have to have someone
machine one but maybe if some of our readers out there see this maybe
they would know and could let me know and I will post the info. Joe"
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Question 164: "Joe, I didn't notice anywhere in the FAQ's
about building from plans. I want to build my first plane from plans,
and what is the best way to cut and make templates? What material should
I used for the templates? When cutting templates, do you cut outside
or inside the black line? Should I cut 2 kits at one time? Any information
would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, Richard"
Joe: "Hi Richard thats a good question I dont think I have touched on
before. first the best way to make and cut templates. there are 3 ways
of doing this the first being is to chop up your plans. this is fine
but what happens if you ever need to repair or want to build another
plane at a later date. I do not reccommend this way. the second would
be to goto a print shop and have a copy of your plans or partsheet made.
This is the best idea especially of the entire plans. depending where
you live most of the time you can get your entire plans copied for 15
to 20 bucks. some people on the east or west coast it seems though cost
them 75 cents a sq ft so its just as cheap to buy a new set of plans
later. Me its usually around 28 cents a square ft . You can also find
places that have wide format scanners and can scan your plans in for
you and burn to cd for between 5 and 12 dollars a sheet. this is the
best method as over time your plans wil shrink and contract with weather
so if say a year from now you want to build another plane you can print
from your scans and they will not be skewed due to tiff files dont expand
and contract.
first use either a sharp pair of scisors or an xacto and cut out your
part leaving the the touside lines showing. If you want to cut several
kits out you can get some think sheetmetal or aluminum and use that
for cutting out templates on and after you are all done with one plane
store them for later use. the most common method is to take some 3M
spray glue and spray the back of the paper that the part is drawn on
and then stick it to your wood. always spray the paper not the wood
as the glue will stay on the paper. if you spray7 the wood it wont hurt
then lay down all your templates onto it but when you are done your
wood will be a little tacky for a day or so.
when i used to cut out my own kits til i found out laser cutting is
just a little more expensive and a lot more accurate I would spray 3
m glue on the back of my wood and stack several layers enough to cut
2 or 3 planes at once. the advantage is if you ever need repairs you
have the pieces already cut. also it will take you the same time to
build 2 planes at once as it does 1 and you can then sell the second
plane to get back the money you spent on wood etc and help buy the expensive
stuff like servos or engine.
as for the lines it really doesnt matter which you do. most people cut
way outside the lines and sand to the lines and others cut on the lines
and sand til the lines are gone. either way the key is to be consistant.
if you sand to the lines on 1 sand to the lines on all you parts same
with sanding the line off. Joe"
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Question 165: "I have the facilities to join, and fabricate
parts out of T-6061 Aluminum Alloy. Has anyone that you know / heard
of, tried to create a Warbird from plans using Aluminum, not Balsa /
Ply? Is there a certain "flex factor" taken into account with
a balsa wing or fuselage, that may not exist when using Aluminum? I
plan on making the 1/8th balsa parts out of 1/16th aluminum sheet, and
so on, in the T-6061 alloy. I'm looking for strength and survivability.
Your thoughts, hints, expertise, is appreciated.
Thanks John"
Joe: "John I have seen somewhere on the web of people making all aluminum
aircraft but they have only been for static. I do not know of a flying
model aall aluminum plane Joe"
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Question 166: "Hello Joe, I am building a 90 inch W/S Roadrunner
with fully sheeted foam core wings. I tried your Delft/Glassing method
on the fuse and was really impressed with how easy it was to do. My
question, since lacquer based Poly U melts the last coat a little to
chemically bond to itself, could i apply one layer of the .7 cloth,
then when it has dried apply a second layer of glass in the same fashion
for additional strength. Then finish with the aditional coats of Poly
U as you have specified? Thanks for your help. Ron"
Joe: "Hi Ron yes that will work it is basically the same as you do when
you overlap the glass say on the tailfeathers on the plane. you should
have no problem doing that. Just remember if you have foam cores make
sure they are sheeted well as the laquer based will attack the foam
directly. i havent heard of any problems with foam cores as most people
use the sanding sealer first. If you are concerned the water base will
work too just takes forever to cure. Joe"
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Question 167: "Hi Joe, I have an pretty stupid question
(I am an rc plane builder for many years and now I want too go in scale
building) I am already made some wooden parts of an P 51 from Don Smit
plans. We have also plans from Nick Ziroli what do you think is the
best way too do (I mean what is the best plane too fly and best scale)
building is not the problem. The wood from the Smit plans can I use
for the Ziroli I think, I don't have any hardware yet. In Holland is
an seeing "It is better too turn half way than lost totally".
Thanks a lot. Dick"
Joe: "Hi Dick I am not a P-51 nut so I cant really tell you much on
the scale outlines of the two designers. I will tell you thiws and that
are both designers do their research for their designs and either can
be a contest winner. The Ziroli is 1/5th scale and the Smith is 1/4
scale, if you go by the old rule of thumb bigger is better. It really
depends on you and what you can haul and store. the ziroli plane is
smaller and easier to transport and store and the smith is a lot bigger
making storage and transport something to consider. My final verdict
is you cant go wrong with either oif them for scaleness and flyability
just have to pic which size you want. Joe "
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Question 168: "Hi there,I'm
looking for stencil details for AT6 Texans. Was there generic stencilled
information which was applied to these aircraft? I've looked in various
books and trawled the web but in all the pictures showing any of the
stencils on the aircraft they're nearly all unreadable."
Joe: "Hi
Chris I had made some up in cad at one time but cannot find them. I
did them for a friend and must have deleted them after I sent them to
him. What I worked off of is a set of decals from a plastic Model. When
people are looking for stencil sets I tell them the best way is to go
online and find a set of decals for plastic models and order a set.
they are dirt cheap and give you locations as to where they go etc.
One place is North American Hobbies http://www.nahobbies.com/html/Decals.html they cover most of the main decal makers out there Aeromaster being
one of the best. I hope this helps Joe"
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