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Joe Huntley
Page 7 Questions 145-168, click links or browse page.
Question 145 Hanger 9's P-51 engine size ? Question 157 Sheeting foam core with polyurethane ?
Question 146 Hiding exhaust on a Ziroli Stuka ? Question 158 Prop/engine charts ?
Question 147 2 oz or 5 oz glass cloth ? Question 159 Cutting out spinner to fit prop?
Question 148 Ziroli Corsair stab saddle placement ? Question 160 Plans for an OVI Mohawk?
Question 149 Making canopy's for B-25 ? Question 161 V-1 Buzz bomb plans ?
Question 150 Top Flite P-39 elevator installation ? Question 162 More than one project at once ?
Question 151 Better wheels for Hanger 9 P-51? Question 163 Miester 109 canopy structure ?
Question 152 Pilot sources ? Question 164 Making templates from plans ?
Question 153 Top Flite P-40 cockpit kit ? Question 165 Aluminum r/c aircraft ?
Question 154 Polyurethane glue ? Question 166 Two layers of glass cloth for strength ?
Question 155 5 oz fiberglass cloth ? Question 167 P-51, Ziroli or Don Smith ?
Question 156 Scale exhaust ? Question 168 AT6 Texan stencils ?

Question 145: "Hello, I am considering Hanger 9's 1.50 size p51. Does this plane because of its larger size have the same retract problems as the 60 size? Or are the retracts beefier because the plane is bigger? Also would a zdz 40 engine work on this plane? I know its alot of power. (in my opinion you can't have to much!!) You can always back off the throttle. But its nice to have it in a pinch. Would the airframe survive with the extra hp. Thanks in advance, Zaim"

Joe: "hello Ziam as far as the retracts I wouldn't know as I don't use them (robarts) I would check with Darrell at sierra precision for his retracts. He has a set that fits the top flight giant P-51 and I would assume they would fit the hangar 9 but I am not sure. They are better retracts in my opinion and would hold up a lot more abuse. I use nothing but darrells gear as I would rather pay a little more than have the headaches I have had with robarts. (Remember this is only my opinion and not that of rc warbirds) as for the ZDZ 40 all I can say is if it will fit go for it. I like to put the biggest engine I can afford in as you said can always keep off the throttle but have the extra power if you need it to get out of trouble. Joe"

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Question 146: "Hey Joe, I am going to be starting on my Ziroli Stuka soon and I was wanting to go with the Zenoah G-62 for power. I was however concerned with concealing the exhaust under that narrow cowling. I have seen many pictures of Stukas with a gaudy muffler hanging out the side and I would like to make mine as clean as possible. Any suggestions? "

Joe: "Ian, I don't think you should have a problem with it, however I would suggest a pitts style muffler for it over a big canister one. You might also check with century Jet as they make scale working exhaust or custom exhaust reasonably maybe they can help you out by making you an end that can bolt onto your 62 with a pipe running to the back of your motor where you could mount a pitts style muffler. There are probably stock fittings you can by that divert your exhaust around to the rear where you can mount your
muffler. I would tell you to go with a ZDZ engine because they have rear OR side exhaust but I just found out they aren't available any more.

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Question 147: "Hi Joe! After reading your article on your website about glassing with Polyurethane I would like to have your opinion about using 0.2 oz/sq.yd fiberglass tissue that I saw on the web at instead of 0.5 oz/sq.yd. Can I expect the same finishing results at a lighter final weight for my TopFlite Cessna 182 Skylane. Many Thanks
Jean-Pierre "

Joe: "Hi Jean-Pierre yes you should expect the same finish with it. The glass cloth you use isn't the concern for the weight but the material you use to glass with thus you would be using the same material i.e. the poly U so it will have the same finish weight as if you used the .5. While it wont weigh the same exactly I think you get my point. You will be using a lighter glass and since it is a tissue wont need as much to fill the weave so will give you a lot lighter finish. Joe"

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Question 148: "I am building the Ziroli Corsair circa '91 and the stab saddle placement isn't shown, except for a horizontal view which is virtually useless. I don't know if I have to tear some stringers out, if it lays on the crutch and is flush with the former edge, etc. (?) Any help would be appreciated! Regards, RORY_S"

Joe: "Hi Rory if ya look real close under the stab on the side view you can see the SS1. And it is itty bitty. Normal for Ziroli is to sit the stab saddles usually labeled SS1 on top of the crutch. I have built several of his planes and they all build the same way and use the same abbreviations. Joe"

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Question 149: "Hi Joe, Thank you for all your knowledge!!! I am currently plan building a B-25 Mitchell Ziroli, with a 52” wing span. These are old plans, but the plane is coming out great. I do however need some suggestions on building the three clear canopy’s. The Nose, Pilot, and tail canopy in particular. These cannot be purchased. What can I make them out of? Thanks for the advice in advance. Building in Boston Chris"

Joe: "Chris What I would do is use balsa blocks or something like pine and carve your canopy shapes. After you get it the way you like it use something like clear polyurethane and give them several coats. Next wetsand them smooth and take some kind of rubbing or buffing compound and buff them up really good to get rid of any scratches. I would use these to Pull your own canopys from clear styrene. Joe"

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Question 150: "Hi Joe. I have a question about my TF P-39. I am getting ready to fit and attach the stab. The problem is, when it comes time to attach the elevators, I can’t figure out how to do it. When it is time, there is no way to get the elevators on both sides in one piece. Are you supposed to cut it in half and then attach it? Basically saying, the slot where the middle of the joiner wire is is inaccessible to me (the fin is glued on). I’m sorry for the vague and broad question; I’m having trouble wording this. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. --Aaron "

Joe: "Aaron the problem is your fin being glued on. you were supposed to have it pinned in place or something just to check it and then remove the fin to place your wire in the slot (see step 8 on page 17) I think that might be where you are coming into problems. you may have to remove the fin in order to get it to go together correctly Joe"

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Question 151: "I need some "nice" wheels for a Hanger 9 150 size P51. They need to be 3 1/4 diameter.........but not the usual junk that keep coming apart on every landing. Glennis has some nice ones but they start @ 4 inches..........Aluminum rims and tires that will hold up under 15 lb. is what I'm looking for...........any ideas?"

Joe: "Hi Hal I like Scale wheels from they start at 3.5 inches though but hey whats a 1/4" and they are a lot less than glennis. You might want to find your own tires of the size you want and contact Darrell at Sierra Precision see if he can make you some scale wheels. Thats the only 2 options I know about. Joe "

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Question 152: "Hello, I have a variety of scale warbirds that I have constructed, from ARF's and kits, as well as some old planes I have recently refurbished. Unfortunately, most of these planes are without pilots, and I am looking for a good source, or sources for 1/4, 1/5, 1/6, 1/7 th scale full figure, and 3/4 figure military WW2 pilots. Can you please let me know of any websites, and or manufactures for good scale ww2 pilot figures?"

Joe: "Joe there a lot of people including myself which use the ultimate soldier series of pilots which you can get at walmart, kaybee toys, kmarts and toys R us if you are here in the states they work great for 1/5th and 1/6th scales. if not do a search on the web for ultimate soldiers. for the larger ones there is a gal who custom makes them called "pilots by Diane" I cant seem to find her contact info at the moment but I know her husband frequents RC universe you could post a thread there looking for her contact info. she is reasonable and does some nice pilots. Joe"

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Question 153: "hi Joe. i have just purchased topflight's P-40 kit and am interested in decking it all out for show and maybe flight and was wondering if you had any ideas about where i could find a good detailed cockpit kit. i've also purchased the one that is done by bob dively and am really not happy with the production of it. is there anyone else that makes one or do you know of where i can get some good photos to try making my own from scratch? also, how about ideas for a sliding canopy and can you fly with it open? thanx, doug"

Joe: "Dynamic Balsa sells some nice kits but they pricey. when I went to get the url they had the P-40 one staring me right in the face too on their front page. Joe "

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Question 154: "Joe, I agree with your recommendation for the Elmers Polyurethane glue. It takes about 20 minutes till it hardens, and about 4 hours till it fully cures. The one question I have is, can the poly glue be used instead of the CA glues on the aircraft. Since I do not have a time constraint, I can wait 2 hours between completing the next steps in some cases, and in others, Ca offers a more viable alternative. "

Joe: "Lewis Poly Urethane glues are nice for planking. when I plank I run a bead along the edge and then CA it to the formers to hold it in place and so I can run several planks that way. CA I just use to tack things in place. The glue I would recommend using for Building is Elmers Titebond II. It is made for the furnature makers etc and is very strong. I add food coloring to mine so that when it is cured I can easily see it. The problem with Poly glues are that if you dont put them on propperly they are weak. Also if theres too much it foams everywhere making a big mess. My feelings are that Poly glues are great for laminating stuff, sheeting foam cores, and planking but after that they arent very good for building. Gorilla glue is good it is basically the same thing as probond but with a different name. Joe"

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Question 155: "I hear that .50 oz cloth is what i should use on a TF .60 size P-47. I can't seem to find it any where. Also what would you use on the Giant TF P-47? Thanks Chris"

Joe: "Hi Chris .5 oz is all I ever use. Normally you can get it through your LHS without a problem. A lot of times I will goto walmart and go through their fabric department and get me some really light weight cotton fabric to glass with. Matter of fact I will probably use it with my 1/4 scale spit project. At $1.00 to $1.50 a yard in the sale section (yard of fabric is actually 36 x 60) it makes for a lot cheaper than glass cloth and works the exact same. Usually it is only like 30% cotton but is is also just about the same as using .5 oz glass. If ya really want to use glass Contact Mike Chilson at he doesnt have it up on his site yet but they have some big rolls of the stuff they can cut to order. if you really have to you can goto .75 oz cloth. As for the 47 I use nothing but .5 oz cloth on all of my planes for Normal glassing of wings and fuse unless I use the cotton fabric. If I am making a cowl or something I will use larger sizes. Joe"

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Question 156: "Joe, My first visit to the site. Like finding gold. Myself and 4 others are building 96" P-40E models from modified to exact scale Brian Taylor and Ziroli plans. All powered with 3W 75IS engines. I am a member of the World Miniature warbirds Association, a member of the Scale Squadron of Southern California, and I announce Top Gun in Lakeland, Florida.
My most recent project is a Byron T6 all scaled out with hidden servos. Power is a Zenoah G62 on CH ignition. I have searched everywhere for a scale Scale muffler exhaust system for this model that will mate to a T6. My friend John Collver flies the aircraft in the attached photo. This is the one I am modeling. All servo's are hidden and scale hinging operates the ailerons. I have tried Iron Bay (Formerly Byron originals), Ziroli, Bison, B&B Specialties, JTEC, Barton Retracts, AND Slimline, with no solution other than building one from new metal. Any suggestions or referrals will be appreciated. Sam "

Joe: "Sam Contact Century Jets they are doing custom exhausts and i have seen some of their work and looks nice. Heres a tip I have used once before to get the scale USED looking exhaust. Goto your local gunstore and get some BROWNING not Blueing stuff. they use browning for the muzzleloader guys. I wont tell the authentic way to brown hehehe. then ask the guy what he would recommend to thin it down or just look at the label. if you thin it way down you can do increasing levels of browning from very faint to darker. to give it the brown streaks some exhausts have just dry brush with a paint brush. Some Brownings require the metal to be heated first so be sure which you are using before you start so you know how to apply it properly. Joe"

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Question 157: "Really enjoy the site. My question, what is the proper technique for sheeting a foam core wing with balsa using polyuerathane glue. Should the glue be applied to the core and the skin, or to just one of them? How thick should it be put on? Also do you have a link to a web site the explanes in detail how to accomplish all the other details of building a foam core wing, ie installing wing tubes, servo leads, servos, control surfaces, etc. As you may have guessed I am embarking on my first foam core wing. Thanks, Ron Berg"

Joe: "Ron its gonna be really hard to explain the foam core stuff as i dont work with it as i had too many bad experiences foam hates me :0) I would suggest asking Jack Devine abt that as he is very good with foam planes.

As for the sheeting I can help you there. what you need to do is to apply the poly glue to the wood itself or the core itself. I think it is easier to do the core. then use a credit card type squeegee and spread it out but you need to spread it out paper thin. then ya put the sheeting on top flip the core repeat and then set the core in the core saddles the core comes in and weight it down and leave it there overnight then ya come back the next day and trim it up. its basically pretty easy and thats the one thing I can do with cores heheehe. But Jack Devine would be a good source and you can check his website out for more tips Joe"

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Question 158: "Hi Joe; Very impressed with your website about airplane modeling. I have almost 40 years flying R/C model airplanes aerobatic and scale. I appreciate very kindly to ask you that I cannot find information of propeller charts for specific engine size in both 2 and 4 cycle engines. Thanks, Good Luck. Javier"

Joe: "Javier I only have 1 engine chart then below it is the prop conversion chart. Joe"

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Question 159: "Dear Joe, My brother in law and I are putting our first big scale war bird. We was wondering what is the best way to cut the slots in the spinner for the propellers? Eric G."

Joe: "Hi Eric. well the thing I usually do is to set the spinner on top of the prop and draw a rough outline of where I am going to cut and the shape. I always make it smaller than it needs to be. Then I start cutting. If it is a plastic spinner an xacto works good if it is Aluminim a set of good sharp tin snips will work. After it is precut I then set it on again and mark a little more. at this pint with a aluminum spinner I will usually slow way down and file it the rest of the way to get a nice smooth edge and so it wont start denting the sopinner. if it is plastic I slice still with an exacto. I repeat this process until I am done. Joe"

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Question 160: "Please tell me where I can buy, trade, steal?, construction plans for a OV-1 A,B,C, or D to built a RC model. I have a special interest in this plane since one saved my life while I was serving in Vietnam 1963-1965. Any kind of help would be of great help. Thank You, John "

Joe: "Here ya go John Vance Makes one he has some nice plans I am abt to do his HE 111 Joe"

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Question 161: "Hi, I am looking for whoever is selling a set of slope soarer plans and canopy for the WW II German V-1 Buzz Bomb. Do you or anyone in your organization know who this person is and how I can contact them so I can buy the plans? I sure would appreaciate any and all assistance you can give on this matter. Thank you, Richard"

Joe: "Sarge a friend of mine from Norway sent me a link to some plans for you. He says can be powered or as a slope soarer I put the info below for you The british mag "Flying Scale Models" has plans for a 40" V1. You'll find it at Look under "R/C Scale IC Power", you can build it powered or as a PSS. Good Luck, Joe"

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Question 162: "Hey Joe, just a quick question. Do many modelers take on multiple building projects at the same time? I’m thinking of tackling a single engine Ziroli plane and multi-engine bomber at the same time. Is this common or is it wise to stick with one at a time? Thanks, Patrick"

Joe: "Hi Pat the basic answer is yes there are a lot of modellers with multiple projects. I myself currently have 4 on the table I have had as many as 7 when I was building for people. If you have the room to separate the two projects so the kits dont get mixed up go for it. I think for most modellers 2 projects at once would be easy to do. Remember there are a lot of times where your project may be stopped. In my case I have a couple on the side waiting on retracts and other things. Thus you will always have to stop building for a week or so while waiting on parts or have to stop while waiting on glue to dry when sheeting or stop while waiting for glass to dry lots of things cause you to stop. Whit I like to do is work 1 week on one project and the next on the second. By the end of the week I am usually at a point where I need to wait on something to dry or to make a run to the hobby store etc. It also breaks up the monotony of working on the same plane day after day.

Now there are those people that aren't into building and for them they need to see the light at the end of the tunnel so if they get started on 2 projects at once chances are neither will get finished as they will get tired of building. You need to find out what kind of a builder you are. A hurry up and get this silly thing built or someone who has a lot of patience and when its done its done. Joe"

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Question 163: "Joe im trying reinforce the canopy on my miester 102" 109. an who can i call for a 7.5" spinner.Thanks bob "

Joe: "Bob if you arent in a big hurry I am working on an article on how to make a scale fiberglass framework for your model. I will be doing one on a 109, a tempest (bubble type canopy) and a spitfire that will give 3 different types of canopies which will cover anything you would want to do. I hope to have it finished by the end of the month and posted in a special page I will be having on with detailed articles I will be doing for scale construction help. if you are in a hurry you can goto your hobby shop and get some narrow strips of brass and glue them to the inside of your canopy where the recesses are for the framework.

As for a 7.5" spinner I dont know. you may have to have someone machine one but maybe if some of our readers out there see this maybe they would know and could let me know and I will post the info. Joe"

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Question 164: "Joe, I didn't notice anywhere in the FAQ's about building from plans. I want to build my first plane from plans, and what is the best way to cut and make templates? What material should I used for the templates? When cutting templates, do you cut outside or inside the black line? Should I cut 2 kits at one time? Any information would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, Richard"

Joe: "Hi Richard thats a good question I dont think I have touched on before. first the best way to make and cut templates. there are 3 ways of doing this the first being is to chop up your plans. this is fine but what happens if you ever need to repair or want to build another plane at a later date. I do not reccommend this way. the second would be to goto a print shop and have a copy of your plans or partsheet made. This is the best idea especially of the entire plans. depending where you live most of the time you can get your entire plans copied for 15 to 20 bucks. some people on the east or west coast it seems though cost them 75 cents a sq ft so its just as cheap to buy a new set of plans later. Me its usually around 28 cents a square ft . You can also find places that have wide format scanners and can scan your plans in for you and burn to cd for between 5 and 12 dollars a sheet. this is the best method as over time your plans wil shrink and contract with weather so if say a year from now you want to build another plane you can print from your scans and they will not be skewed due to tiff files dont expand and contract.

first use either a sharp pair of scisors or an xacto and cut out your part leaving the the touside lines showing. If you want to cut several kits out you can get some think sheetmetal or aluminum and use that for cutting out templates on and after you are all done with one plane store them for later use. the most common method is to take some 3M spray glue and spray the back of the paper that the part is drawn on and then stick it to your wood. always spray the paper not the wood as the glue will stay on the paper. if you spray7 the wood it wont hurt then lay down all your templates onto it but when you are done your wood will be a little tacky for a day or so.

when i used to cut out my own kits til i found out laser cutting is just a little more expensive and a lot more accurate I would spray 3 m glue on the back of my wood and stack several layers enough to cut 2 or 3 planes at once. the advantage is if you ever need repairs you have the pieces already cut. also it will take you the same time to build 2 planes at once as it does 1 and you can then sell the second plane to get back the money you spent on wood etc and help buy the expensive stuff like servos or engine.

as for the lines it really doesnt matter which you do. most people cut way outside the lines and sand to the lines and others cut on the lines and sand til the lines are gone. either way the key is to be consistant. if you sand to the lines on 1 sand to the lines on all you parts same with sanding the line off. Joe"

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Question 165: "I have the facilities to join, and fabricate parts out of T-6061 Aluminum Alloy. Has anyone that you know / heard of, tried to create a Warbird from plans using Aluminum, not Balsa / Ply? Is there a certain "flex factor" taken into account with a balsa wing or fuselage, that may not exist when using Aluminum? I plan on making the 1/8th balsa parts out of 1/16th aluminum sheet, and so on, in the T-6061 alloy. I'm looking for strength and survivability. Your thoughts, hints, expertise, is appreciated.
Thanks John"

Joe: "John I have seen somewhere on the web of people making all aluminum aircraft but they have only been for static. I do not know of a flying model aall aluminum plane Joe"

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Question 166: "Hello Joe, I am building a 90 inch W/S Roadrunner with fully sheeted foam core wings. I tried your Delft/Glassing method on the fuse and was really impressed with how easy it was to do. My question, since lacquer based Poly U melts the last coat a little to chemically bond to itself, could i apply one layer of the .7 cloth, then when it has dried apply a second layer of glass in the same fashion for additional strength. Then finish with the aditional coats of Poly U as you have specified? Thanks for your help. Ron"

Joe: "Hi Ron yes that will work it is basically the same as you do when you overlap the glass say on the tailfeathers on the plane. you should have no problem doing that. Just remember if you have foam cores make sure they are sheeted well as the laquer based will attack the foam directly. i havent heard of any problems with foam cores as most people use the sanding sealer first. If you are concerned the water base will work too just takes forever to cure. Joe"

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Question 167: "Hi Joe, I have an pretty stupid question (I am an rc plane builder for many years and now I want too go in scale building) I am already made some wooden parts of an P 51 from Don Smit plans. We have also plans from Nick Ziroli what do you think is the best way too do (I mean what is the best plane too fly and best scale) building is not the problem. The wood from the Smit plans can I use for the Ziroli I think, I don't have any hardware yet. In Holland is an seeing "It is better too turn half way than lost totally". Thanks a lot. Dick"

Joe: "Hi Dick I am not a P-51 nut so I cant really tell you much on the scale outlines of the two designers. I will tell you thiws and that are both designers do their research for their designs and either can be a contest winner. The Ziroli is 1/5th scale and the Smith is 1/4 scale, if you go by the old rule of thumb bigger is better. It really depends on you and what you can haul and store. the ziroli plane is smaller and easier to transport and store and the smith is a lot bigger making storage and transport something to consider. My final verdict is you cant go wrong with either oif them for scaleness and flyability just have to pic which size you want. Joe "

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Question 168: "Hi there,I'm looking for stencil details for AT6 Texans. Was there generic stencilled information which was applied to these aircraft? I've looked in various books and trawled the web but in all the pictures showing any of the stencils on the aircraft they're nearly all unreadable."

Joe: "Hi Chris I had made some up in cad at one time but cannot find them. I did them for a friend and must have deleted them after I sent them to him. What I worked off of is a set of decals from a plastic Model. When people are looking for stencil sets I tell them the best way is to go online and find a set of decals for plastic models and order a set. they are dirt cheap and give you locations as to where they go etc. One place is North American Hobbies they cover most of the main decal makers out there Aeromaster being one of the best. I hope this helps Joe"

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