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By Sam Parfitt
Page 3
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This shows the center wing flap servo connection viewed from
the top.
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The center wing bottom view showing the positions of the
90 degree arms with the flaps up.
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The center wing bottom view showing the positions of the
90 degree arms with the flaps down.
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The long dowels in the center wing for holding the booms
on. Just keep pushing them in until they stop. This will give you about
an inch sticking out. Slop lots of epoxy in the hole and on the dowel and stick it in. The dowels
fit perfectly into the center wing, but I had to enlarge the holes a skoch
in the booms for the dowels to slide in.
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There was slop in the center wing holes where the short
dowels are epoxied. To insure alignment after the the epoxy and dowels were put in, I slide
outer wings on about 1/2" from the center wing. (a 1/2" away to
insure that no extra epoxy made my 3 piece wing a one piece wing!) This
kept the dowels perfectly aligned until the epoxy dried.
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The 12 oz tank that came with the ARF is the top one. I replaced it with a Sullivan Flex-tank, slant style 16 oz tank (FSS-16
No.743).
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The length of the tank fits perfectly in the space but
it is about 1/2" wider than the area cut out for the original tank.
I used a razor saw to enlarge it. I cut 1/4" off each side of the former. (that black hole in the middle
is a hole in the fire wall that I talk about later).
The enlargement that I made is in front of that.
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This is the front view through the opening in the firewall to see
where I put the saw in to cut off some horizontal wood to make the bottom
flat where the tank will rest.
I've never seen an open area this large in the firewall before.
It could be for air circulation.
Not sure if we're going to get a lot of fuel in here.
May have to seal this off when we get to mounting the engine.
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Tank dry mounted and servos mounted in the right boom (viewed
from the pilot's position).
From top, down: rudder, throttle and elevator servos.
I moved my throttle servo to the left of center since my engines are being
mounted inverted. The black guide tubes are extra long and have to be cut shorter to connect
the rods to the servos.
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The left boom is the mirror image for servos:
From top, down: elevator, throttle and rudder servos.
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While I'm watching a bowl game, I thought I'd check the retracts.
Neither the nose nor the mains fit the mountings. The mountings are the
correct spacing but the formers that hold them are going to have to be
cut.
I Used the razor saw to cut a larger hole (slot) in the former.
Then I found that the rod that protrudes out the side of the retract
is in the way so I had to put slots in the side of the mounts.
I used a dremel tool to remove about an 1/8" deep and 1/4 by 1/4"
wide and long. This is the left boom.
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All's well in the universe again!
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The nose gear retract mounting area had to
also be trimmed.
Here's about a 3/4" by 1.5" piece of former removed.
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Order of assembly for the Spring Air nose gear (No instructions
came with it so this is my guess!).
One of the retract assemblies says 'nose gear' on the top side, although
I can't find any difference between any of them!
(These names are made up by me: don't know what SA calls them)
Strut, strut insert, steering linkage, brass sleeve, steering linkage
shaft, retract.
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The brass sleeve is a skoch larger that the steering linkage
shaft so the retract will tighten around the brass sleeve, leaving the steering
linkage shaft to rotate.
Tighten the steering linkage to the steering linkage shaft.
Put the strut insert into the strut, tap two set screws and tighten this
to the steering linkage shaft.
Twinman says that Mike (VQ) says big 'no' on putting the steering servo
upfront.
Makes sense after thinking about it (won't retract that way)! |
Other boom had 1 mount glued out of alignment and I had
to make indents not only for the rotating shaft (center) but also the two
end screws that hold the assembly together.
No big deal: just used the dremel to grind it down.
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The initial holes are drilled.
First I used a center punch to dimple the wood so the drill doesn't wonder.
Second, I used a small diameter drill bit to get the initial hole drilled.
I then drill the final hole with the proper size drill bit.
This increasing bit sizes dramatically increases accuracy.
(also only way to properly drill through metal). |
All retracts screwed in.
Presently, only put two screws in for now. Later, when I get the struts
on and check for alignment, I'll then drill the other two screw holes.
(if I did this in the right order, I wouldn't have to do this!).
(my 'radical side' doing what moves me at the time instead of the proper
order).
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Speaking previously of possible hinges not being glued, here's a mount in the nose that was only dry fitted.
A little epoxy fixed that up.
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I put a medium Robart air tank in.
The hole in the former is an exact fit for the tank but there's not enough
room to slide it in.
I used my razor saw to cut a piece out to slide it in and I can glue the
cut piece back in later. |
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The tank on the right came with the Spring Air's 400 set.
As you can see, the volume difference is significant, and important when
moving retracts this size!
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I've learned in wood working, never measure when the you
can transfer measurements directly.
Trying to measure say 13/32" (hmmm, just a hair over that)....forget
it!
In this case, I use these.
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Can't get any more accurate than that! (which is important
for mounting engines).
Again, I center punch it to initially guide the bit.
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While it's not necessary, it makes accuracy much easier by
using a mini-drill press.
As with the gear mounts, I drill a pilot hole first.
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Then over to the regular drill press (also not necessary
but easier) to drill the final hole.
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Some may find this a little anal but I tap and use a locking
nut (plastic insert) to hold the engine to the mount.
The tap will have the bolt, thread and bit size on its shaft ( in this
case: 8-32, #29).
There's a lot of vibration up there on the business end and it's no fun
having it come loose: not to mention safety (but I will!).
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Front view. Temporary mounting of engine to
the firewall.
The firewall has 'centering' lines on it.
The engine shaft should align on the center of their intersection.
The top mount corner had to be trimmed so it wouldn't interfere with the
fuel adjusting screw.
Part of the opposite mount will have to be trimmed for the muffler.
The muffler will have to also be ground down on the corners near the mount
in addition to the area close to the throttle so the connecting rod can
move freely.
I will also have to drill/tap a screw with a hole drilled through the screw
for pressure to the tank.
This J-tec muffler does not come with this (not sure why!).
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Side view. |
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Top view. |
With cowl on.
The engine cylinder head just clears the inside of the cowl.
I will probably have to cut a hole for the glow plug.
Later, I will install a remote set of wires a foot back (or so) to route
1.5 volts to the glow plug.
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