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By Sam Parfitt
Page 4
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We need access holes to run the wires from the booms to the
center fuse where the receiver will be. I cut a 1/2X3/4" access hole
in the center wing. This needs to align with one of the holes that are
in the ribs. The hole is 1/2" to the right of center and 3 1/2"
back from the leading edge. Note:We're cutting all holes on the bottom
of the wings. This picture shows the hole for the fuse. We can always
enlarge it later if need be.
(From woodworking, I've found it easier to take a little more off than
try to add it back on!)
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This is the boom hole.
Left boom (again in relation to the pilot).
This one is also 3 1/2" back.
It is a little bit off center between the two mounting dowels.
There is a rib right between the two dowels so I shifted the hole about
an 1/8" over.
Don't make these holes too wide because the booms have very wide triangular
supports running on both sides of the boom (obviously to give the booms
strength).
Making a hole over these will be useless since no wires will be able to
be there. |
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Here's a side picture showing the hole in relation to the
ribs.
That hole in the rib is where we'll use the 'ol wire with a hook on the
end' routine to pull the wires through the center and then up through
the boom holes.
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Right boom hole.
In this picture, you can see the rib that we want the hole to be next to
it and not over it.
When pulling the wires for the boom, it may be difficult to get the wires
off the hook and through this hole so we may have to enlarge it later. |
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Flap wiring is shown here. |
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I needed the servo reverser AFTER the first Y connector.
The order for the wires starting at the receiver is: A Y is first. The
left leg of the Y goes to the left wing flap. The right leg of the Y goes
to the servo reverser. The reverser side then gets another Y and these
two leads go to the center wing and the right wing flap (clear as mud!).
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Flaps up (wings still on their backs). |
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Flaps down.
(must be hooked up right, it works: amazing!).
I initially put the reverser as the first Y but that didn't work.
A little trial and error always works well with low voltage electricity
versus trying to use this method on a new house outlet!
Note that those center flaps are at about 95 degrees (might have to reduce
that angle!).
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Enough to make a grown man cry!
(need wireless like they have for pc's and the keyboard and mouse: Twinman:
you want to get researching on that, please!). Besides the servo reverser
for the flaps, we also need one for the elevator.
I was thinking we might need one for the rudders but visually going through
the servo motions, it looks like just a regular Y will do (we'll find out
later when we actually hook up the rudders!). The engine throttle servos
also just use a regular Y harness. We'll still need to route the retract/brake
lines through the center wing. Since the nose gear, retract and brake servos
are all in the fuse, we can test all that stuff later. Everything has been
tested OUTSIDE to remove any bugs before we start routing that mess through
the wings.
As usual, we'll electrical tape all connections, pull them through the holes
(hopefully) and then label each one as we get it through. How many and what
length? Don't ask: too many variables. Just get lots of each length (like
servos, never have too many servo extensions ....and Y harnesses....and
servo reversers!). |
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Now we'll start on the spoiler/ailerons. |
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Using the piano wire with a hook, we pull the spoiler/aileron
wire through the hole in the center wing and out the side of the wing.
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After normal installation of the low profile
servo (again, make sure you don't drill through the servo mount and out
the top of the wing), the special connecting rod for the spoilers has to
be made. Since we can't have the spoiler going up when the aileron is going
down, we need some way of disabling the spoiler for this to work properly.
Fortunately, VQ has figured that out by using a spring. On the PUSH movement
of the servo, the servo arm hits the collar and pushes up the spoiler. On
the PULL movement of the servo, the servo arm needs to move but not bind,
as it would if it was connected directly to the spoiler rod.
The spring allows the arm to move freely on the PULL motion. Cool!
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As you can see in the picture, I had to put a bend in the connecting
rod to get it to work. The bend was so the rod can go under the sheeting
of the wing. The manual shows the rod just to the edge of the access hole.
I found this caused the spring to be too compressed and not functional.
I had to cut a new longer rod. The rod is 3.5" long from the ball
joint end to the other end of the rod. The first collar (for the PUSH
movement) is 1 7/8" from the center of the socket hole. This is then
slipped through the E/Z connect hole on the servo arm. The spring is then
put on and then another locking collar on the end (whew!!).
The E/Z connect doesn't use a set screw since the rod has to move
freely. You have to take the control horn off the servo before putting
all this @$#% together on the E/Z connect. Then slide everything into
the hole, screw on the control arm to the servo and put the socket onto
the socket ball. I'm finding these black plastic sockets to be very loose
so I'm going to have to replace them. Hopefully, someone makes sockets
the same size as the socket ball so the brass socket ball also doesn't
have to be replaced. The socket ball is brass so it's good quality. Again,
put a little AC on the nut holding the brass socket on to prevent it from
coming loose in flight. |
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You can now connect the rod that goes between the servo and
90 degree control horn. All the E/Z connects are already attached to the
90 degree control horns. I wanted to replace all of them with other types
of connections but I'm finding that the screws holding the 90 degree control
horns to the mounts don't come out.
I'm guessing that the screws and nuts were all attached BEFORE gluing
the mounts in.
Removing the horns would be difficult to do and it, unfortunately, means
we have to use the E/Z connects. Just make sure you file a flat spot and
locktite it. |
The aileron control horn is now connected
in the usual way
with the control horn holes for the clevis to be aligned up directly over
the edge of the aileron.
The clevis's appear to be good quality. All we need is to put a piece of
large fuel hose over it to make sure it stays closed.
NOTE: over time, some pilots have found ARF control horns to age and crack.
Your call on replacing them. As with all flying: all surfaces and materials
should be checked BEFORE flying: not only for the planes safe return to
terra firma, but also for our safety.
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Routing the wires in the center wing. |
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Here's some the filters/chokes that can be used to filter
out that chattering that you can get on your servos. The top one is an
in-line filter.
Then there's JR's barrel and ring filters
Hitec's servo has the wires twisted. Another way to help filter out unwanted
servo chattering. I'm using a PCM receiver which works very well on filtering
out chattering.
(there's a lot of debate on whether PCM is good or bad: I favor them).
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Here on the center wing, I used the hook on the right to
pull the other hook
out of the hole once it appears down in the hole (the left hook was inserted
into the end of the wing and pushed in so we can attach the wire to it and
pull the wire through the wing).
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One of the extension wires twisted before pulling it through
the wing.
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The final product.
Wires from the receiver are going into the center hole. Each boom hole has
the rudder, throttle and elevator extensions. Each end of wing has the flap
and spoiler/aileron extensions.
I also ran the retract air lines in. Spring Air only uses one air line (a
spring in the cylinder pushes the retracts down). (hmmmm, I forgot to run
the brake air line: back to the workbench!).
I also had to enlarge that center hole an inch toward the leading edge to
get
all the wires in. (took all afternoon just to do this).
Everything is labeled so all should go OK when we start connecting up all
the servos. |
I put the wing tubes on the center wing. Used their screws (20mm or about 3/4" in English).
The center section is just about done except for working on those sockets |
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Back to working on the engines. After putting lots of epoxy on the firewall (inside and outside), I transposed
the engine mount distances to the firewall.
I used a 13/64" drill bit and put the blind nuts in from the back
and tightened them into the firewall using one of the socket head bolts.
Without the rudders attached yet, it was easier to just set the boom vertical
on its tail on the floor and then drill the engine mount holes.
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Engine mounts mounted. I cut about 1" off the front of the mounts so they wouldn't show
when the cowl is put on.
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| Both engines and mounts are done. I had to trim one engine
mount for the fuel adjustment valve and the muffler. |
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Oblique view with the cowl on.
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